motor only lasted 12000
Originally posted by 7-sins
yeah well its been two years... dont drive the car too much......
I will check the plugs... but I really have a bad feeling ya know? the oracle put up some good advice. I cant really drive the car... so I guess I will start to pull **** out.
I mean I am pretty sure the motor install was crappy.... stock injectors with a midpipe didnt help too much.... lack of tuning... and stock IC probably had the intake temps up.
One big question IF the plugs are fouled, would it sound lumpy when cranking? the plugs dont have anything to do with cranking it. Ray at PFS said it was broke as soon as he heard it crank, the 10 seconds or whatever it takes a motor to turnover.
The fuel filter was fine K&N recently installed.... injector duty peaked out at 80% after the run, I usually check my peaks on the PFC after I beat it somewhat hard.
I think I am going to get a seal kit for like 900$, reuse what I can... upgrade to 1600cc injectors, pump, regulator, ect. Large SMIC and a slightly used set of turbos (ceramic coat, full nonseq, maybe clip turbines) Tuning is the only next issue, probably datalogit and some 4am 3rd gear pulls. I think one of my friends will give me a hand with a datalogit and wideband.
yeah well its been two years... dont drive the car too much......
I will check the plugs... but I really have a bad feeling ya know? the oracle put up some good advice. I cant really drive the car... so I guess I will start to pull **** out.
I mean I am pretty sure the motor install was crappy.... stock injectors with a midpipe didnt help too much.... lack of tuning... and stock IC probably had the intake temps up.
One big question IF the plugs are fouled, would it sound lumpy when cranking? the plugs dont have anything to do with cranking it. Ray at PFS said it was broke as soon as he heard it crank, the 10 seconds or whatever it takes a motor to turnover.
The fuel filter was fine K&N recently installed.... injector duty peaked out at 80% after the run, I usually check my peaks on the PFC after I beat it somewhat hard.
I think I am going to get a seal kit for like 900$, reuse what I can... upgrade to 1600cc injectors, pump, regulator, ect. Large SMIC and a slightly used set of turbos (ceramic coat, full nonseq, maybe clip turbines) Tuning is the only next issue, probably datalogit and some 4am 3rd gear pulls. I think one of my friends will give me a hand with a datalogit and wideband.
I just got a reman motor warrenteed, it had 18k miles and was 3 years old was Mazda dealer installed. I just called up Mazda and they asked me to read the # off the front cover give them your VIN. Came back on the phone and Said your new motor will be sent out tomorrow. It never hurts to ask.
Originally posted by ZoomZoom
I just got a reman motor warrenteed, it had 18k miles and was 3 years old was Mazda dealer installed. I just called up Mazda and they asked me to read the # off the front cover give them your VIN. Came back on the phone and Said your new motor will be sent out tomorrow. It never hurts to ask.
I just got a reman motor warrenteed, it had 18k miles and was 3 years old was Mazda dealer installed. I just called up Mazda and they asked me to read the # off the front cover give them your VIN. Came back on the phone and Said your new motor will be sent out tomorrow. It never hurts to ask.
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Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 165
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From: Maryland
Dont give up, Mazda saw all my mods and still supplied me a reman after 13k on the core High Tech threw in last year .So thats two cores in 20 months , not a good ordeal to go threw but Mazda did help a little .Give Ray at Malloy a call, it cant hurt
Dude your in VA, call Ray at Malloy!!! He is the man, has the best prices around on anything. He is also a 3rd gen owner. Just do a search for him and you can get his ph#
STEPHEN
STEPHEN
I'd definitely go get a compression test. I dunno about your car, but my car borders on stall if the rpms drop to 600. Normal operation with no load is right between 750-800 rpm in my car. And I too am running with the base PFC maps.
I've seen some lumpy idles result from a vacuum leak. So before you throw a bunch of money at it, you might want to check that all the vacuum hoses are connected properly and all the solenoids in the rat's nest are still working. Should be fairly easy for you since you've gone non-sequential.
I've seen some lumpy idles result from a vacuum leak. So before you throw a bunch of money at it, you might want to check that all the vacuum hoses are connected properly and all the solenoids in the rat's nest are still working. Should be fairly easy for you since you've gone non-sequential.
Originally posted by 7-sins
I called and the guy said he could put it through, but he would need mazda to look at the car. I dont think Mazda would like the mods.... How did you prove to them the motor was shot? I would really like a reman.
I called and the guy said he could put it through, but he would need mazda to look at the car. I dont think Mazda would like the mods.... How did you prove to them the motor was shot? I would really like a reman.
Ok... well got a compression tester tonight. 65-70psi on each side, pretty consistent. That was with a half *** charged battery but I was looking for consistency mainly. I fired her back up and noticed the timing was all weird on the PFC... it seems like the leading was +10 degrees over trailing at low rpms/idle. under normal driving they were almost exactly the same. I am thinking maybe bad coil pack or ignition related. Any incite guys?
Originally posted by 7-sins
it seems like the leading was +10 degrees over trailing at low rpms/idle. under normal driving they were almost exactly the same. I am thinking maybe bad coil pack or ignition related. Any incite guys?
it seems like the leading was +10 degrees over trailing at low rpms/idle. under normal driving they were almost exactly the same. I am thinking maybe bad coil pack or ignition related. Any incite guys?
Have you dont anything to your car lately? Change any PFC settings or anything at all???
Check and see that your getting spark out of all your wires. If not try changing the wire or the coil pack. It would pretty much have to be a leading wire or the leading coil pack cause from what i understand you can actually run just fine without the T.
Also, did you check your plugs yet???
STEPHEN
Check and see that your getting spark out of all your wires. If not try changing the wire or the coil pack. It would pretty much have to be a leading wire or the leading coil pack cause from what i understand you can actually run just fine without the T.
Also, did you check your plugs yet???
STEPHEN
Originally posted by SPOautos
Dude your in VA, call Ray at Malloy!!! He is the man, has the best prices around on anything. He is also a 3rd gen owner. Just do a search for him and you can get his ph#
STEPHEN
Dude your in VA, call Ray at Malloy!!! He is the man, has the best prices around on anything. He is also a 3rd gen owner. Just do a search for him and you can get his ph#
STEPHEN
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