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Motor mounts: IRP vs. Full Function "soft"

Old Feb 14, 2020 | 01:46 PM
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Motor mounts: IRP vs. Full Function "soft"

I'm over due for motors mounts. I've done some reading and the IRP mounts seem like a popular. I've also heard good things about the FF mounts: the design looks looks like an improvement over factory to me. What has your experience been?
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Old Feb 14, 2020 | 02:24 PM
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Both products get good reviews. The later stock steel mounts are very adequate. What you tryna do with the car? Those aftermarket mounts will increase NVH noticeably. Something to consider if your build is mild.
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Old Feb 14, 2020 | 02:39 PM
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Either is a good way to go. The full function mounts cost more since they are the whole arm and they shave off a decent amount of weight.

If you have the original mounts with the 1 aluminum arm, the FF mounts may be a good way to go since you won't have to source a steel arm for the new mount.

Regardless either is a great option.

Dale
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Old Feb 14, 2020 | 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Narfle
Both products get good reviews. The later stock steel mounts are very adequate. What you tryna do with the car? Those aftermarket mounts will increase NVH noticeably. Something to consider if your build is mild.
My build is a relatively mild street car ATM. At some point it will see some light track use. Currently I am using Powerflex "street" diff bushings and the Banzai tranny crossmember and I'm surprised how much shifter movement I still get on/off accel and when shifting. My main goal is to reduce that movement, and I do enjoy a good launch from time to time.

Originally Posted by DaleClark
Either is a good way to go. The full function mounts cost more since they are the whole arm and they shave off a decent amount of weight.
If you have the original mounts with the 1 aluminum arm, the FF mounts may be a good way to go since you won't have to source a steel arm for the new mount.
Regardless either is a great option.
Dale
I do still have the one aluminum arm. IRP actually gives you the option of purchasing a steel arm with the mounts which is nice. Still, even though the design of the FF mounts look nice they are still twice as expensive as the IRP mounts WITH the steel arm included.

I wonder what grade polyurethane the IRP mounts are. The FF "soft" are 68A. Difficult to compare though since they are of a difference design.

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Old Feb 14, 2020 | 03:05 PM
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I just took a look at the FF installation instructions and they are saying that oil pan removal is necessary. Looking at the FSM I don't see why this would be necessary... And that is not something I particularly want to deal with. I was under the impression the job only really required supporting the motor from above, removing the under cover, unbolting the old mounts and throwing the new ones in. What am I missing?

Last edited by mkd; Feb 14, 2020 at 03:10 PM.
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Old Feb 14, 2020 | 08:13 PM
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No experience with the IRP mounts, but I have the FF mounts. I've had these on my car for about a year until I lost that engine, and I still like them so now they're going on the new engine. There is a noticeable increase in NVH at low RPM. However when the revs climb past 1500~2000 everything smooths out a lot but still not quite as smooth as stock. Feel is great, for me it just seemed to tighten everything up and give a little more of a confidence inspiring feel. I've got NO shifter movement at all.

As for the install, since disturbing the bolts that go through the pan could cause warping or damaging of the pan seal RTV, it may be prudent to remove and re-seal it. My first go-round my pan was already leaking badly so I took the thing off, resealed, and added a brace when I did the mounts just to get everything done at one time. This time, my new engine is fresh out-of-crate, and I installed the mounts without removing the pan (didn't want to have to mess-up and redo the factory seal).

Last edited by XanderCage; Feb 14, 2020 at 08:27 PM.
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Old Feb 14, 2020 | 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by XanderCage
As for the install, since disturbing the bolts that go through the pan could cause warping or damaging of the pan seal RTV, it may be prudent to remove and re-seal it. My first go-round my pan was already leaking badly so I took the thing off, resealed, and added a brace when I did the mounts just to get everything done at one time. This time, my new engine is fresh out-of-crate, and I installed the mounts without removing the pan (didn't want to have to mess-up and redo the factory seal).
Interesting. How big of a pain was re-sealing the pan? Seems as though you'd have to wait quite a while for any dripping to stop after removing it, then clean the mating surfaces with some sort of solvent, then apply red RTV or the like? Is there enough room to do it comfortably?

My motor is all original with about 30K miles. I'm tempted to just bolt the bitch straight on... maybe that's asking for a leak, though...
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Old Feb 14, 2020 | 09:48 PM
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An oil pan reseal is definitely doable, but a fun and easy job it is NOT. The biggest problem is that the subframe doesn't leave enough room to extract the oil pan, so you need to take it off. If the engine's staying in the car it's a major pain (again the only experience I've got is my own, perhaps others had an easier time of it).
Like I said though with my new engine I just bolted them on, and although its not in the car yet, I'm not concerned.
What you might do if you're apprehensive is contact IRP, and FFE and ask if they think it's really a necessary step.

Last edited by XanderCage; Feb 14, 2020 at 09:53 PM.
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Old Feb 14, 2020 | 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by XanderCage
An oil pan reseal is definitely doable, but a fun and easy job it is NOT. The biggest problem is that the subframe doesn't leave enough room to extract the oil pan, so you need to take it off. If the engine's staying in the car it's a major pain (again the only experience I've got is my own, perhaps others had an easier time of it).
Like I said though with my new engine I just bolted them on, and although its not in the car yet, I'm not concerned.
What you might do if you're apprehensive is contact IRP, and FFE and ask if they think it's really a necessary step.
Yeah, I do not want to do that. lol

I know what they will say, "we cannot guarantee the oil pan will not leak" with no additional information

I can't imagine everybody re-seals the oil pan when putting motor mounts on...
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Old Feb 15, 2020 | 12:40 PM
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FDs are at max fill have an oil level ABOVE the oil pan to engine seam. The motor mounts essentially make the entirety of the entire rearward sealing surfaces clamping load. If it were me I'd re-seal the pan.
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