Can anyone answer this ... WHY DO THE STOCK MOTOR MOUNTS COST SO DAMN MUCH? After calling around all the dealerships and a little surfing, the best price I could find was $233/ea.!!!!!!! What's so special about the FD motor mounts that makes them cost so much?

 

Um, the FD is the only car produced that uses these particular motor mounts... Limited production... I'm sure you can figure out the rest.

Try here:
http://www.rotorsportsracing.com/

They're Urethane so they may transmit more vibration, but they should out-last the stock ones.

 

Thanks for the link. However, I do like my teeth the way they are ... so the stock OEM rubber motor mounts is what I'd prefer. Still, does anyone know exactly why the motor mounts retail for so much? They can't be that hard to fabricate and the $200+ charge (ea.) for rubber bushings and mounting surfaces is just ridiculous.

 

I poop my pant everytiime I go to the dealer for parts - it's insane. Are you SURE your motor mounts are toast?
If they are still in one piece I have a solution that will help - pm me.

 

The stock FD mounts are FLUID filled - NOT a simple Rubber block like most others. BUT yes I agree they are VERY expensive for what you get. But compared to the $500+ cost for replacing the 2 rubber mounts and 2 High pressure engine dampers on my MBZ's 4.5L V8 not unheard of.

 

Ah, I see. I should open my manual before I start running my yap.

RonKMiller, I will need to inspect them up close to really be sure. The motor wiggled during tech inspection at an auto-x this weekend, when the guy tugged on the rear wheels. It doesn't seem normal, but a closer inspection should tell all.

 

Just hockey puck the bitch.

 

Motor wiggling isn't a good way to diagnose the problem.

In removing and installing all the FD motors I've done I think that one of the MAJOR factors with motor mount life is oil leakage onto them. Oil soaks into the rubber making it like jelly. Once that happens the motor mounts tear rather quickly and all the silicone leaks out of them.

My 93 R1 has the original mounts on it, the bottom of the car is dry as a bone. I've seen a 19K mile car that needed motor mounts, and guess what, it had an oil leak.

A really common cause of oil leaks is the turbo oil return lines, especially the rear. It is really easy to fix, cheap too. The oil tends to get blown UP onto the turbos so people think the leak is coming from somewhere higher up on the turbos.

Jeff

 

Can the turbo return lines leak on the left mount? Has anyone ever seen a broken right mount? Everyone I've spoken to has broken their left mount, but i agree oil is often the culprit and often from the pan. I just put the urethane mounts in and I am very happy with them but then I have an R1 and am use to having my teeth rattled.

turbojeff, how do I get one of those battery boxes you were talking about for the 51?

 

I've seen plenty of broken right mounts, fewer on the left (but still a lot). The oil pan is a source of leaks, your right. It isn't that easy to fix though.

I'm going to be starting a group buy for the battery trays. I'm trying to start a website for a little more info.

Later,
Jeff

 

hey redrotorR1,

Call Ray Crowe(1-888-533-3400) at Malloy Mazda about the mounts and tell him Scott sent you, you Scott who bought all his parts from you, SCottttttttttt from Atlanta, he'll know who youre talking about. He should be able to get you a good price.


Later

 

from the factory, the left and right mounts are different. the right mount is more heavy duty. this may be why left mounts are more prone to break. Mazda has now specified using the right "heavy-duty" mount for both sides.

 

Turbojeff, I like your theory but I think it has a lot to do with the heat on that side of the engine rather than an oil leak. I know my mount was bad when I replaced my motor. My mount did not have a heat shield like a lot of the mounts I have seen. Did the car with 19K miles have a heat shield on it?