so i just got done a week ago puttin my new set of twins in and a bunnch of other mods. raced it last night running around 12psi. today was on my way for a dyno run and all of sudden the car lost it. my front rotor has little to no compression. someone mentioned to me that the front housing seal could have gone???? i wouldnt know how that could happen. when apex seals go does it usually smoke like a siff? cause there is no smoke at all. the rear rotor tested around 110 psi on all the surfaces. i put my hand in front of the leading plug on the bottom of the engine and got 3 really faint chu's. the motor was a reman from mazda and only had about 30k on it. its my first motor to ever blow i took the chance of dealing with these engines buying the car. i love them and want to keep workin on it.

 

Well after putting on all those mods your first mistake was running over 10lbs without a tune... And if you lost compression its from an apex seal which wouldnt cause it to smoke.

Chris

 

just say "no" to remans...I'll never do that again

 

If you get a reman, immediately send it out to a good engine builder to tear it down, spec it out, do at least some oil and coolant passage mods, eccentric shaft bypass, etc. and possibly a small street port since you are there.

They use a surprising number of new parts in the remans... however, for the price of a new one at the current time, a reman seems like a bad deal. Once the new ones are no longer available... again... then a reman will be viable, but I would always send it off to be worked over before ever running it.

 

well i purchased it from a private owner who had the motor installed at a rotoary performance shop in south jersey, i was using a pettit unlimited ecu as well. but time for a rebuild.

 

hope your new set of twins are ok after spitting out parts of an apex seal

 

^That sucks...You going to swap the motor yourself?

 

what are you doing turning up the boost without a tune???

 

that's another "no"...the Pettit ECU and stock injectors is a formula for disaster unless everything is in perfect working order and you're boosting less than 13 psi, it's simply too close to the ragged edge

 

What he Said: ^^^

One of the main things to look at in an FD is your Fuel Delivery, and Management of said Fuel Delivery. Everything else comes after that.

 

so when i do my rebuild go with a better setup with the fuel system inc fp injectors and a fpr. im goona go with larger apex seals on this one and possibly upgrade the twins to the bnr's. should i ditch the pettit ecu and go find a pfc? what type of apex seals should i use?

 

Power FC + 3 mm seals + big injectors + Garfinkle ported manifold and BNRs + solid boost control and conservative boost = reliable....going on three years for me, and I drive the car hard

 

Are your BNR's sequential? If so, How soon do you see 10psi? Would you say that it is similar to stock (possibly due to the flow mods) ?

 

im thinkin of of bringin the car over to kdr in penn doin a full rebuild going half bridge and running with a single gt35r. i got another engine at my buds house thta has a blown rear rotor so i could snag his front housing and rotor. ne one have an idea wats it gunna cost to rebuild a 35r, my boy is giveing me a deal on it. apex seal material for the best bang for the buck what would u guys rec.?

 

I would reccomend PFS(PF supercars) in MD. Luckly i am local but Ray is one of the best tuners around and a really cool guy and does awesome work(not just rotarys).

Sucks about your engine but most likley you detonated and cracked or broke a apex seal or warped a seal. Get bigger injectors, supra pump, PFC, a intercooler setup, and a good tune.

As for seals, stick with 2mm and i am going with atkins cyro treated seals reccomended by Ray. He has had bad luck with some batches of mazda seals(warping) and has run 750rwhp on these seals with no issues.

 

@wankel88

At least you have a good attitude about it. I love how you already changed your sig to "All rotor no motor". The Pettit ECU with stock fuel system should have been "ok" unless one of your "mods" was a midpipe. Sure, the stock fuel system doesn't leave much room for error but many 7 owners have got away with it and worse.

The gt35r is a nice responsive sized turbo for the FD. I would recommend a streetport and 2 mm seals to go with it. Use the money you save to get that Supra (MKIV) pump, a pair of larger injectors, clean or replace your other pair of injectors, a new fuel filter, new fuel lines (Ray@Malloy has a kit that's not too expensive), and a new fuel pulsation dampener. A PFC would be better than a Pettit ECU but the Pettit ECU should be fine if you can get the Air Fuel Ratios checked with a wideband O2 and your boost is rock solid all the way to redline.

 

[QUOTE=Matt Hey;8707787]@wankel88

The Pettit ECU with stock fuel system should have been "ok" unless one of your "mods" was a midpipe.QUOTE]

thats what did it kaboom. i ported the factory watsgate as much as it could have gone but it still did not work, of course the result. i did research and people say its ok and some say it isnt. i know now. lesson learned. the setup that i listed above is what my buddy has and its incridable. at 15lbs he is makin 425 reliable. i want to achieve the same. the fd was my everyday driver for a year until i bought a 500 dollar hoop d the 93 sundance duster lol. the starter went in it after i got the fd all set and i drove it too much again. once this is done the car will see the road just on the weekends. this whole deal is depressing but the bright side is i can actually do what i want to this motor now. just alot of time and saving up on a medium budget will do. i love the fd and wont give up on it. i use to be big into hondas. hell i even have a mugen tattoo on me lol, thinkin of getting some rotors in a tribal like design somewere lol.

 

dump the Pettit ECU...ASAP...an adjustable FPR is also helpful

dump the FPD, you don't need it, and it's a potential fire hazard unless you get it "fixed"

 

Sounds like you just ran a little too much boost with the stock computer. The colder weather doesn't help. Call me at the shop. I'd be glad to help. I have the rotary-specific compression tester.

 

i appreciate it but i know the front rotor is done, using a reg automotive comp tester it read 0 on all sides. im lookin at doin a rebuild ill slide u an email and see if we could work something out.

 

im now debating on rebuilding my self, i hav e alot of knowledge and am very hany with piston engines. i have a local guy that could do a rebuild plus porting for roughly 500 dollars for labor. i was on the atkins website and came across a tape on rebuiling the rotary's. i totally understand the functions of the engine. its just the tools i will need. will i need anything special when it comes to doing it? i would like to take all the pride in doing it myself. but 500 dollars for the hassel would it be woth it? the guy is local and has a very good rep. problem is tuning the motor when im near complete. i want a single turbo it now im 100 percent positive. im gunna be yankin the bastard out next weekend. i want to duplicate my buddys setup but i want to be diff too. he is runnin a gt35r turbo at 15lbs makin 425. what turbo works well. i like the throttle resonse of the twins compared to his single but just the power of that single makes me **** my pants lol. i dont want to lag too much lookin to spool up around the 3500 to 4000 rpm mark and fully boost. when it comes to turbos i know the most about em. its just sizes and ars that im not familliar with. any help or suggestions would be great.

are u in northern jersey? are u good with the power fc im intreseted in your help with a good tune. what would u charge for a basic rebuild with me supplyin the parts. i sent u a friend request on myspace.

 

Shot you a pm dude. I can have about anything tuned.

 

RES sounds like a very patient man...

 

Just been around these cars for long enough so I know how they are.

 

which is apparently why you stick with the Cobra

that was a classic race between you and Rich...