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Most Willing To Pay for Charred Engine?

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Old Jan 15, 2004 | 12:24 PM
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Most Willing To Pay for Charred Engine?

Whats the most I should pay for a 13B-REW Motor that caught fire? The fire was pretty sever that ALL plastic parts are melted down + it has sat there for over a year.???
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Old Jan 15, 2004 | 12:26 PM
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As long as the internals weren't damaged it should be fine. depending on the miles I would expect to pay around $1,500 to $2,000. Just need to get some parts off the for sale section or Mazda.
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Old Jan 15, 2004 | 12:29 PM
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$1.5 to $2K? Seems a little high to me, for a questionable motor that was in a fire, and has sat for over a year. You can get a Mazda reman for $2k. I would say it's worth closer to $1K.
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Old Jan 15, 2004 | 12:33 PM
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BTW this would probably be only the motor and the turbo's. Thats it. The wiring harness and all selenoids are obviously dead.
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Old Jan 15, 2004 | 01:26 PM
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$500 would be the max
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Old Jan 15, 2004 | 01:34 PM
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500
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Old Jan 15, 2004 | 01:41 PM
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501
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Old Jan 15, 2004 | 02:01 PM
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did you toast your car?
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Old Jan 15, 2004 | 02:02 PM
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502
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Old Jan 15, 2004 | 03:48 PM
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Nah, not me found it at a junk yard.
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Old Jan 15, 2004 | 03:55 PM
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Buy it and make a new wiring harness, 500$ is very decent. There is nothing plastic on the motor (besides the oil filler neck, wastegate solenoid, and the coil packs) that you actually need to have a running engine.
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Old Jan 15, 2004 | 04:09 PM
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Originally posted by clayne
Buy it and make a new wiring harness, 500$ is very decent. There is nothing plastic on the motor (besides the oil filler neck, wastegate solenoid, and the coil packs) that you actually need to have a running engine.
How would I MAKE a new wiring harness for it??
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Old Jan 15, 2004 | 04:19 PM
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With a lot of time, patience, and a factory service manual. All of the pin-outs are documented. There's really not that many wires to run on the ECU side of things (presuming you will be keeping it non-seq). I would think you may have to replace some sensors as well. Where exactly did the fire on the engine originate and what portions of it did it burn?
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Old Jan 15, 2004 | 04:20 PM
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Also, with your own harness you can use a larger or two smaller junction connectors next to the firewall which will only require disconnection of your harness from those connectors when pulling the engine - instead of pulling the entire harness through the firewall.
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Old Jan 15, 2004 | 06:28 PM
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Well I guesse your talking about all the electrical diagrams. Patience and Time yup I would need it. The fire Im guessing started where they normally do, the two rubber hoses in the back by the fuel rails. Either way everything plastic is melted in the engine bay. (up to the elbow).
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Old Jan 15, 2004 | 07:13 PM
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Hmmmm.....I would agree that $500 is about the limit.
A friend of mine bought a 300 Z motor that had toasted itself (they were known for that) and it really is more hassle than what you might think. Luckily for him, my friend was able to use all the stuff off his blown motor and was familiar with the layout, and it was STILL a bitch.
I simply can't imagine trying to reconstuct/rebuild all the fried **** on an FD motor that had been thru a severe fire......
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Old Jan 15, 2004 | 08:08 PM
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The hardest thing I would see would probably be the wiring harness. BTW you would have to (properly) mill the rotors for 3mm seals right?
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Old Jan 15, 2004 | 08:59 PM
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BTW, there's really not that many wires for a non-seq setup:

For instance, everything you see splitting off to the right in the 1st picture is not needed for non-seq (this harness partially wrapped):




Last edited by clayne; Jan 15, 2004 at 09:04 PM.
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Old Jan 16, 2004 | 12:32 AM
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You dont even need the 2 boost selenoids if you run with manual or electronic boost controllers.
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Old Jan 16, 2004 | 12:34 AM
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Yep, but with the way I'm setting up my solenoids, the PFC will be a fine electronic boost controller.
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Old Jan 16, 2004 | 12:36 AM
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Well lets see the price he gives me, and I'll probably go 50/50 with someone on the project.
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