Benjamin

Alright. CowsniperRX7 lives by me and has been having issues lately. His car has the following:

Stock block & turbos w/ 97k mi
DP
HFC
RB Single CB
Home Depot Boost controller
Hose Job

His boost in each gear is as follows:

1st: no boost sometimes, 2-3lb other times
2nd: no boost sometimes, 6lb other times, and 10-11 other times
3rd: 6lb sometimes, 10-11 other times
4th: 6lb most of the time
5th: I didn't mess with

It's generally eratic. Just driving around in suburbia it will switch between all of the above. I've messed with it repeatedly, and am out of ideas. I KNOW that the boost controller is installed properly--It's worked fine on my car for 9 months.

There is no pattern AT ALL--meaning, it goes to i.e. 6lb and holds until shift--there is NO transition (6-4-6)

Any ideas on where to start? Does the computer set different boost levels for different gears? Could a line be loose? Any thoughts on where to start or what to inspect would be helpful. thanks,

-BN

Trexthe3rd

The WG and turbo control actuator c-clips may have fell off, check it.

Benjamin

we'll try that this week. anything else to look into?

-BN

rotorbrain

a parallel setup

Benjamin

I'm sorry, but I havn't heard of that--care to elaborate?

-BN

poss

iTrader: (5)

while i don't think that this will solve all of your problems, look at the check valves. Make sure that they only flow one way, and make sure they are installed correcty. they were the cause of my erratic boost problems.

parallel = non sequential
do a search and you will come up with enough info to keep you busy for a while

i didn't notice that you he had the hose job done. has is ever worked right since the hose job? if not, might want to recheck all those connections.

Benjamin

I would have searched, but I've never heard of anything like this.

We were both planning on going Non-Seq some weekend in the near future, so maybe we'll look into that.

The dousche bag that did the hose job didn't replace the pills on the lines by the turbos (I found that when I was trying to diagnose earlier). We had to replace them. He very well may have screwed something else up too. I just wanted to avoid pulling the TB and UIM.

Thanks for your help thus far.

-BN

CowsniperRX7

iTrader: (3)

Thank you Ben for putting this thread up.

Yes my boost pattern is very messed up. In 4th it sometimes hits 10-11, but rarely. I still have to put the correct pill in the pre-controll. Right now I have a 64mm pill in there, it needs a 59mm right? I don't think that would effect my 1st & 2nd gear boost, but it does make the transition smooth. Any info would help. Thanks.

Benjamin

bump for the little man...

-BN

crazyrx7

Check your solinoid valves. They are a pain in the *** to check because they are under the plenum. My turbo control solinoid was pooched so I went a head and replace all of the valves so that I wouldn't have to go back in. It will be hard to test continuity concidering that the heating and the cooling of the engine causes the contacts inside to expand and contract. After all of this I just went with the non-sequential because there is less of a chance of things going wrong.

R.K.

CowsniperRX7

iTrader: (3)

Bump. Anyone else have some info?

damian

iTrader: (2)

check to mke sure the wategate and precontrol wire connectors are not swapped

KZ1

do the boost troubleshooting guide on "lighting site"

you haev primary boost problems, it can only be a few things. charge leak(y-pipe, plumbing, etc), the TPC actuator and or selenoids.

If I were you I woudl check over all teh vacuum hose job, concentrate on primary boost, then i fyou still don;t have secondary go from there.

It took me awhile to fix my boost pattern, but ever since then it has never failed in 2 years, and i run 17lbs of boost. so it seems pretty reliabel to me.

Toadman

Check your Y-pipe rubber coupler for cracked rubber if you have the stock Y-pipe coupling. Do you hear any honking or mooing?

johnchabin

iTrader: (2)

T into your vacuum tank and watch what it does through the different gears. Do the same for the pressure tank. I have had erratic performance that resulted from leaky (as stated above) check valves. But loose/split hoses will have the same effect. You mostly want to verify the tanks will hold vacuum/pressure.

I also have had a split hose on the pressure side of the TCA. This resulted in sluggish transistion and slow build of boost.