Modding My FD - Comments Please (Target 300HP)
11-17-10, 05:56 PM
#1
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Modding My FD - Comments Please (Target 300HP)
I bought an FD recently and I'd like to do some modest power modifications to it. I'm very happy with the way the car delivers power, I'd just like a little more of it. With this in mind, I think I would be more than happy with 280-300HP at the wheels. After reading the various threads around here I'd like to use the following setup. If anyone has any suggestions for parts that would be better suited, please chime in. Mid-pipes are unfortunately not an option as I need to have my car e-tested every 2 years and I would definitely like to stay sequential.
In more or less the following order:
-RX-7 Store downpipe
-Racing Beat Catback
-Aluminium AST
-PowerFC (For ECU Tune and Boost Controlling)
-Larger sized SMIC
-Koyo Dual Pass Rad (For reliability if the situation calls for it)
I'm undecided on intakes. My experience from piston engined N/A sports cars has me almost convinced that adding an intake just makes a cool noise and lets the motor suck in hot air and not yeilding any real power gain. Am I incorrect?
Separate from power mods I was also wondering 2 things:
1) I'm having an issue with my legs hitting the steering wheel, really in no matter what position I adjust the seat. Is there an adaptor to bring the stock wheel out a bit further? Is the 2002 style wheel smaller in diameter than the 1993?
2) My Bose Wave system sounds like its on the way out. Is the Mazda Modular system a plug/play swap out?
Thanks in advance.
In more or less the following order:
-RX-7 Store downpipe
-Racing Beat Catback
-Aluminium AST
-PowerFC (For ECU Tune and Boost Controlling)
-Larger sized SMIC
-Koyo Dual Pass Rad (For reliability if the situation calls for it)
I'm undecided on intakes. My experience from piston engined N/A sports cars has me almost convinced that adding an intake just makes a cool noise and lets the motor suck in hot air and not yeilding any real power gain. Am I incorrect?
Separate from power mods I was also wondering 2 things:
1) I'm having an issue with my legs hitting the steering wheel, really in no matter what position I adjust the seat. Is there an adaptor to bring the stock wheel out a bit further? Is the 2002 style wheel smaller in diameter than the 1993?
2) My Bose Wave system sounds like its on the way out. Is the Mazda Modular system a plug/play swap out?
Thanks in advance.
11-17-10, 06:14 PM
#3
Outside the mods you mentioned, I would add a high flow cat (bonez is a functional affordable option). If you keep your air pump, you'll be fine with emissions. if you are going to run near 14 psi you may also want to consider 1200 cc secondary injectors.
I would do some reading regarding what intake you like the most, but I would certainly do something. My experience has been that open intakes are fine, but an M2 style intake would address your concerns. There's also a way to mod the stock aiqrbox to flow more, but keep in mind that it doesn't fit with the larger SMICs.
With all that you should reach those power numbers no problem. I made 300rwhp on basically the same set-up at 14psi.
I would do some reading regarding what intake you like the most, but I would certainly do something. My experience has been that open intakes are fine, but an M2 style intake would address your concerns. There's also a way to mod the stock aiqrbox to flow more, but keep in mind that it doesn't fit with the larger SMICs.
With all that you should reach those power numbers no problem. I made 300rwhp on basically the same set-up at 14psi.
11-17-10, 06:22 PM
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Is there a significant advantage in heat reduction in the engine bay to be had with ceramic coating the downpipe?
11-17-10, 06:29 PM
#5
I bought an FD recently and I'd like to do some modest power modifications to it. I'm very happy with the way the car delivers power, I'd just like a little more of it. With this in mind, I think I would be more than happy with 280-300HP at the wheels. After reading the various threads around here I'd like to use the following setup. If anyone has any suggestions for parts that would be better suited, please chime in. Mid-pipes are unfortunately not an option as I need to have my car e-tested every 2 years and I would definitely like to stay sequential.
Separate from power mods I was also wondering 2 things:
1) I'm having an issue with my legs hitting the steering wheel, really in no matter what position I adjust the seat. Is there an adaptor to bring the stock wheel out a bit further? Is the 2002 style wheel smaller in diameter than the 1993?
1) I'm having an issue with my legs hitting the steering wheel, really in no matter what position I adjust the seat. Is there an adaptor to bring the stock wheel out a bit further? Is the 2002 style wheel smaller in diameter than the 1993?
You are going to need a new head unit as well as swapping out your speakers. The bose is a one ohm passive system and the headunit does not supply power; and thus each bose speaker has it's own amp.
11-17-10, 06:43 PM
#6
11-17-10, 06:47 PM
#7
300whp is a pretty average and easily attainable goal on a correctly modded/tuned FD. The list of mods you have will get you there, just find a REPUTABLE ROTARY tuner. Piston engines are different than rotaries and they require different attention.
Aftermarket intake will do you some good on a turbo engine. Think of the stock airbox and the small opening the turbos are trying to suck air through. It is like breathing through a straw...
The bose system is its own strange animal. Look in the audio section for more info but in short, likely you will be replacing the whole system with aftermarket or mazda factory parts that fit. The bose speakers work off of 1ohm (I think that is right) and are nearly impossible to find parts for to fix. Or even replacements. It is a PITA, but you will need to run wires for each speaker and install a headunit. OR a non-amped headunit along with an amp to run the speakers and their wires.
The steering wheel is another common problem with FD owners. The solution is to go with an aftermarket wheel and hub adapter. Here:https://miataroadster.com/worksbell.html adapter that comes with the airbag defeat resistor. Then just find you a wheel you like.
Aftermarket intake will do you some good on a turbo engine. Think of the stock airbox and the small opening the turbos are trying to suck air through. It is like breathing through a straw...
The bose system is its own strange animal. Look in the audio section for more info but in short, likely you will be replacing the whole system with aftermarket or mazda factory parts that fit. The bose speakers work off of 1ohm (I think that is right) and are nearly impossible to find parts for to fix. Or even replacements. It is a PITA, but you will need to run wires for each speaker and install a headunit. OR a non-amped headunit along with an amp to run the speakers and their wires.
The steering wheel is another common problem with FD owners. The solution is to go with an aftermarket wheel and hub adapter. Here:https://miataroadster.com/worksbell.html adapter that comes with the airbag defeat resistor. Then just find you a wheel you like.
Trending Topics
11-17-10, 06:50 PM
#8
From the FAQ thread stickied in this forum:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/faq-3rd-gen-other-useful-links-68640/
Is this helpful post from DGeesman:
https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...38&postcount=6
Happy reading
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/faq-3rd-gen-other-useful-links-68640/
Is this helpful post from DGeesman:
https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...38&postcount=6
17) What mods do I need to make 300hp? 400hp? 500hp?
Since stock power levels already push the limits of the car, begin with maintenance items: fuel filter, tranny and differential oil, spark plugs and wires, coolant change, injector cleaning, bleed brakes, replace fuel pulsation damper, coolant hoses, etc. Next, install reliability modifications (alternate list) to correct weaknesses in the factory design: all-aluminum radiator, downpipe, aluminum AST or AST elimination, vacuum hose job, boost gauge, coolant temp gauge, modify cooling fans by thermoswitch replacement or manual control, and others. Finally, it is time to add power mods. FDs respond to power modifications and tuning but can’t handle more than a couple bolt-on power mods until fuel, boost levels, and re-tuning are considered. This advice isn’t meant to slow down your progress, but to ensure you don’t destroy your car. It’s happened many times before, and with modified engines pushing the limits of the stock engine systems, the reliability mods become necessities. See this thread for further info.
i) 300HP can be achieved with some bolt-on mods and piggy-back ECU tuning. For example, Pettit Racing offers a +60hp package for under $1500. M2 Performance has a 290HP kit for $2000, and 315HP kit for $3500. 300hp already exceeds the stock ECU’s fuel maps, so the list includes a remapped ECU as well as intake, exhaust, and intercooler upgrades. Any similar set of quality bolt-on will yield similar performance. Any power beyond this point is difficult to pass emissions testing.
ii) 400HP – At this point, it gets tougher to keep the power on the road, so upgraded tires and suspension should also be considered. One fellow planned his path to 400hp in advance to be $10k plus installation time. This list of power mods includes full exhaust, intake, upgraded turbos, reliability mods, upgraded fuel and ignition system, engine porting, standalone engine computer and wideband O2 sensor, clutch, intercooler and tuning. Auxiliary injection would make sense at this point to improve reliability.
iii) 500HP – See if you can afford 400 first. Tens of thousands have been spent to get and remain in this range. Don’t expect your engine to last long. Update: 500hp still isn't cheap, but with auxiliary injection engine life is greatly improved over past high HP setups.
This excellent site is a compilation of modified cars and their dyno performance.
Since stock power levels already push the limits of the car, begin with maintenance items: fuel filter, tranny and differential oil, spark plugs and wires, coolant change, injector cleaning, bleed brakes, replace fuel pulsation damper, coolant hoses, etc. Next, install reliability modifications (alternate list) to correct weaknesses in the factory design: all-aluminum radiator, downpipe, aluminum AST or AST elimination, vacuum hose job, boost gauge, coolant temp gauge, modify cooling fans by thermoswitch replacement or manual control, and others. Finally, it is time to add power mods. FDs respond to power modifications and tuning but can’t handle more than a couple bolt-on power mods until fuel, boost levels, and re-tuning are considered. This advice isn’t meant to slow down your progress, but to ensure you don’t destroy your car. It’s happened many times before, and with modified engines pushing the limits of the stock engine systems, the reliability mods become necessities. See this thread for further info.
i) 300HP can be achieved with some bolt-on mods and piggy-back ECU tuning. For example, Pettit Racing offers a +60hp package for under $1500. M2 Performance has a 290HP kit for $2000, and 315HP kit for $3500. 300hp already exceeds the stock ECU’s fuel maps, so the list includes a remapped ECU as well as intake, exhaust, and intercooler upgrades. Any similar set of quality bolt-on will yield similar performance. Any power beyond this point is difficult to pass emissions testing.
ii) 400HP – At this point, it gets tougher to keep the power on the road, so upgraded tires and suspension should also be considered. One fellow planned his path to 400hp in advance to be $10k plus installation time. This list of power mods includes full exhaust, intake, upgraded turbos, reliability mods, upgraded fuel and ignition system, engine porting, standalone engine computer and wideband O2 sensor, clutch, intercooler and tuning. Auxiliary injection would make sense at this point to improve reliability.
iii) 500HP – See if you can afford 400 first. Tens of thousands have been spent to get and remain in this range. Don’t expect your engine to last long. Update: 500hp still isn't cheap, but with auxiliary injection engine life is greatly improved over past high HP setups.
This excellent site is a compilation of modified cars and their dyno performance.
Happy reading
11-17-10, 07:25 PM
#9
300whp is a pretty average and easily attainable goal on a correctly modded/tuned FD. The list of mods you have will get you there, just find a REPUTABLE ROTARY tuner. Piston engines are different than rotaries and they require different attention.
Aftermarket intake will do you some good on a turbo engine. Think of the stock airbox and the small opening the turbos are trying to suck air through. It is like breathing through a straw...
Aftermarket intake will do you some good on a turbo engine. Think of the stock airbox and the small opening the turbos are trying to suck air through. It is like breathing through a straw...
I have a PFS SMIC and a modified PFS intake which I'm happy with. But there are other good SMICs out there...Blitz, Greddy and others. But any of them will only be as good as the ducting. Search for more info.
As for intakes, If I were looking for one, I'd go with an M2 or SR Motorsports intake box. Sourcing ambient air from the nose of the car will make a difference. Modding the stock box is fine, but it won't fit with many aftermarket SMICs.
If you have the money, heat-coating the downpipe is a great. Anything to reduce underhood heat is worthwhile. But just as effective IMO is header wrap. Not as pretty, but cheaper and you don't have to remove the DP to install it. I would follow it up with the sealant afterward though.
Along with the radiator and other reliability things mentioned, consider relocating the Intake Air Thermosensor (IAT) and changing it out for a faster reacting one. It's simple and relatively inexpensive. A search will tell you more.
11-17-10, 07:47 PM
#10
You don't need a super large SMIC for 300hp. You should be able to hit your goals fairly easily. If you need an SMIC though I do happen to have an M2 medium for sale!
On the intake situation, if I were you, I would go with a boxed intake. If you really wanted to get your intake temps down and get more reliability, you could go AI though it is kind of overkill. If you do go with AI, you may be able to stay with the stock SMIC.
On the intake situation, if I were you, I would go with a boxed intake. If you really wanted to get your intake temps down and get more reliability, you could go AI though it is kind of overkill. If you do go with AI, you may be able to stay with the stock SMIC.
11-17-10, 09:27 PM
#12
i am going through same situation as u
however i knoe u have a usdm and i have a jdm.. that aside
this is what i have
blitz air intake with KnN air filters.. there is a metal sheet so the hot air from rad doesnt get sucked in
greddy SMIC
ksp exhaust with resonator and a cat
knightsports boost controller
stock flashed ecu by knightsports
to be honest with you i have never dynoed my car and i am happy with the power she makes
and still i am going for more power and the same goal as u to achieve 300hp to the wheels at least ..with 11psi of boost
this is my list if it helps you
1. power fc (new)
2. hks downpipe and midpipe.. cat will b gone
3. hks twin power
4. set of pulleys
5. greddy spark plugs .. new plug wires
6. koyo rad
7. som other minor mods
hope that will make my fd more reliable and bring it to 300hp
11-19-10, 12:49 PM
#17
First things I think should be I/c upgrade/ radiator upgrade/ and injectors... I made around 280hp back when my car was fairly stock, at 12 psi I was at 99% injector duty, I hit 100 twice and not a good thing. 1200/1300cc injectors def would of helped, and also my intake temps were up there on a stock I/c, so upgrading that is also a must
11-20-10, 05:04 PM
#19
Rotary Enthusiast
leave the stock I/C in the car and use a water/meth kit for cooling.. mod your stock air box with the adam c intake kit. and get the car tuned for 12 psi I think that will get you around the 300hp mark with you other mods.
11-20-10, 11:17 PM
#20
Ditto that. The water injection will help your intercooling more than a larger SMIC would anyways and you'll have the added steam cleaning effect and option of adding more alcohol rather than just wiper fluid. Look over and prepare your fuel system so you can supply the fuel that your tune requires.
11-21-10, 07:47 AM
#21
And with the stock restrictive intercooler you will have alot of pressure drop, causing your turbos to work way harder to make 12 psi. at the t-body. Since they're not far from their efficiency range at 12 psi already, a decent SMIC is still recommended IMO.
11-22-10, 12:14 PM
#23
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Going from stock to 300 and then 330, was the performance really noticeable? Was it across the band improvement or more noticeable; low, mid or high range?
Thanks and just amped to get going
11-22-10, 02:04 PM
#24
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For your leg hitting the steering wheel issue -- have you looked into any aftermarket steering wheels? Because I don't think you'll be able to fix it stock... plus, quick release steering wheels are really cool, anti theft, and you'll be able to maybe find something that'll help you out with that. You want to be as comfortable as possible while driving. I think that's the most important before any other mod.
11-22-10, 03:31 PM
#25
Rotary Enthusiast
why is everyone so into numbers... 300-325-400-500????.. LOL.... these cars are great and fun at stock levels. I wish everyone would work on getting these cars in good running order first and learn how to drive them. most people cant even drive these cars at stock power levels without crashing them.. I dont care about numbers much you will never be happy. you will only want more power its just bragging rights if you ask me.