Sure, less drivetrain loss or more acuuratley engine mounting loss. The less energy that is transfered and stored in the engine mounts, the more is sent to the rear. Now, it does not add any when at WOT or anything, as the mount is fully compressed. But for that instant that your engine would be compressing the mount, you will gain RWHP with a toque brace. Yes, I know it is insignificant at that point, but basically leads to better throttle response.

Although the brace is great for not missing shifts, I love it because it got rid of all that slop when you would go on and off the throttle.

Jim, What will you be using to mount that V8 monster of yours? I am sure it has to be serious when you are putting out so much toqrue. Mind you, a regular engine generally has betting mounting anyway.

 

could you tell me what you mean by slap to neutral left? do you mean push it to the left then right then up to 5th? is the clutch soppose to be in or out when pushing the shifter left and right?

 

Energy Suspension polyurethane motor mounts and transmission mount.

 

* From 4th gear, 1/2 way to 5th pause
(this will be the right side of neutral)
* move the shift lever all the way to the left
(this will be the left side of neutral)

note: This seems to align the synchros. Some times I smack the shifter like my G/F's behind (LOL) or basically put some effort in to it when going to left/neutral. (Don't let CymGirl read that!) Girls Rule!

* From all the way left of neutral go all the way right.
(going back to the 1/2 way point between 4th & 5th)
* You should be able to easily slide in to 5th now.

[My instructions are kinda in slow motion just for the description, trying to break it down. You might not have to be forcefull at all when going to L-Neutral to align.]

 

I'm make this complicated because of the way I worded it but it's extremely simple.


From 4th to 5th:
Make a "detour" (clutch still engaged)
go all the way to the left in neutral
and then "return" to continue your shift.

Sometimes you have to be a liitle more aggressive when going to the left to align and thats what I meant by smacking the shifter. Sometimes I let go and smack it to the left then continue the shift.

 

Just get a "dog geared transmision" I blew my 5th and reverse. Saving up to get an HKS misson. I;ll never have this problem again..

 

How much is that gonna cost? and what are the benefits?

 

hehehe......
no more "weak" helical gears for you.....

bring on the NOISE!

 

Have fun in traffic!

 

When you get the dog gear tran. there are no syncros right? Which means that you have to rev match in order 2 get it 2 go into gear right?? Just wondering.

 

It wears the synchro much faster because the difference in shaft speed is so different. If you miss third, what that means is you were in second. Slamming into fifth from second gear makes the fifth gear synchro unhappy. The revs are nowhere near matched.

 

Here's a great example...

http://www.exit13b.com/exit13b.com/V...ougNashTest.rm

Notice how incredibly fast the shifts are. It's just coming back down that's a pain in the *** and requires rev matching. Upshifting is easy.

 

Yes & No - there are no synchros but because (in a "DOG" box) all the gears are constantly in mesh and are Engaged/Disengaged by "DOG" Clutches you don't have to Rev Match.

On down shifting, Rev Match is used as much to prevent unsettling the handling/Suspension as to protect the gearbox.

 

That's right. The synchros are replaced by the dog rings, and the gears are straight cut instead of helical cut, which is what makes most of the noise.



In the picture above, the reverse gear is the one on the far right. Notice the difference between the straight cut teeth and the helical teeth of the other gears. That's why the transmission "whines" when you put the car in reverse.

Here's a Quaife 6-speed straight cut gear set for the FD 5-speed case... $$$

http://www.quaifeamerica.com/gears/rx7.htm

 

I don't see why people recommend a short shifter to help misshifting, it seems to me that it would make precise shifting by the driver even more important...

Anyway, when I had my tranny rebuilt (a friend blew out R and 5, the 5th synchro was not bad believe it or not), my mechanic heavily shimmed the spring for 5th and R. I didn't exactly have a problem mishifting to begin with but it is definitely harder to get into 5th and R now.

The feel of the shifter in the N center and then pulling to the left is normal and loose, and it takes about 3 times the force to move N to the right. Might be worth a try for others.

Wade

 

This does work well, thanks for the tip, I can put this off for a little while now