ITR

iTrader: (1)

Any clues of what could be? Could it be that the Turbo timer is giving me a bad reading? Is it possible?

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

It's possible the gauge is wrong. It's also possible they are reading from the intake side of the intercooler, which will show a higher reading, but that might only account for 0.1bar difference. You should move it to one of the nipples on the UIM.

With a stock ecu, you should not see more than 12psi (0.8bar) when reading boost from the manifold, ever. (I think for the 99-spec this may be a little higher). Anything more than 12psi is getting scary.

Dave

ITR

iTrader: (1)

I can't wait till Friday....I hope its the gauge! At that boost the boost limiter should have kiked in i guess... I have no idea what went wrong. The car seems working perfectly.

M14socom

Wow that is some major creep. I don't have a boost guage yet, but I have no cats... I will probably port the wastegate this weekend for reliability

CantGoStraight

The resonated deffinately doesn't act like a silencer. If you were to look inside you'd see it is straight through with perforations all through the pipe into the chamber (creates a touch of back pressure) for a bit more bottom end torque with a slight loss of top end preformance. I thought it gave it a deeper throaty tone as opposed to the higher pith of a straight mid pipe, not just my $.02 as I've had a mid pipe and am now running the Pettit resonated mid and love the difference.

SiKoPaThX

iTrader: (2)

Can someone explain to me how MORE backpressure creates better low end torque?

impactwrench

No one, can do that.

CantGoStraight

I believe it could be better explained on a dyno. My understanding (and I may be wrong) is that a free flowing exhaust allows for a quicker revving motor. Since you tend to move through the lower rpm's much quicker some of the torque normally built at that rpm range is lost, therefore a restrictive exhaust slows the rpm increase and allows for more torque to be built in a lower rpm range. No one said "better low end torque" it was "more bottom end torque".

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

You are looking at more than a weekend's worth of work, unless you are really damn good.

ITR

iTrader: (1)

Guys thanks to all of you again for saving my engine!! If it weren't for you i would blown the engine for sure!! I was really angry that i wasn't warned before from my previous mechcanic! I bought a mid-pipe for $120 and all down the drain. At least i feel really lucky that you have warned me what could happen! It would have costed me much much more..

One more advice please..would it be a problem if i fix a universal Cat instead (my old cat is broken)?

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

You mainly are looking for backpressure to keep your boost levels stable and controllable. If you can find a cat as large and beefy as the stock one, then it should work fine.

Glad your motor is ok

ITR

iTrader: (1)

Thanks GoodfellaFD3s!

Have an aftermarket catback would make some difference?

hanman

I am in the same situation, the PO was 18, already blew one engine, and installed a mid pipe/no cat. Even after KDRotary warned him, he didn't do anything about it. Good news is he didn't drive it much, now it's mine. I am thinking a Bonez hi flow cat, make sense?

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Pull turbos = 2hr.

Split turbos = 20min.

Port Wastegate = ?

Reassemble turbos = 20min.

Reinstall turbos = 1.5hr.

That's what I would budget to do it my slow-*** self w/o air tools or a helper. Does the porting take that long?

Dave

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Hi Dave,

in my experience and opinion, due to age and heat these cars tend to be a nightmare to work on without a lift and air tools, esp a stock twin r&r, and esp if they have never come off the car. Inevitably something ends up breaking as well.....ideally you would want to have an FD inventory room of parts next door, lol.

I have just learned to budget twice the normal time alloted, even as I have become more proficient after all these years.

Just my 2 cents, it is possible to do it over a weekend, but for someone in a garage with hand tools who has never done it before----if I am a betting man, it's not lookin' too good

Rich

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

Mine was on the car when I bought it. AT LEAST 30k and it still looks VERY good. I think it's gotten good reviews by others as well.

Jeff RX7

in the same order of idea, can I install a mid-pipe if I have an HKS air intake, a walbroo 255 L/H fuel pump and a Peter Farrel's Sports car pink piggy back.

Do you consider it is a stock ECU or a tuned one ??? I already have around 15 - 16 psi in boost creep.

My engine is a hurley Stage III with 3,5 mm apex seals.

KaiFD3S

iTrader: (37)

if you install a MP you will get more boost creep..or even maybe get boost spike's..for me I still consider that a stock ECU...

Jeff RX7

So you consider that Peter ferral purple piggy back can't control boost creep... it's not like a Apexi Power FC ? I wondering because I don't know.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

No ECU will control boost creep. If you still have your stock main cat, than you should be able to control boost---15/16 psi is too much. I recommend buying a boost controller and lowering the boost.

The PFS box is better than a stock ecu, b/c it has fuel and ignition maps in it to allow you to run more boost/make more power.

With hurley seals, the *last* thing you need is a midpipe. Keep the main cat on.

Those seals are absolute crap, I have broken over 20 of the 2mm variety (5 blown engines). They are way too soft and break way too easily. I hope for your sake your seals are of some new and better iteration. Are you sure they are 3.5mm? Never heard of them.

Jeff RX7

I've got a HKS downpipe, high flow cat and apexi cat back.... but I purchase a midpipe to see the difference. If you think it's very hasadous and dangerous for my car, I won't try even with a peter farrel ecu. Thanks !!!

Yes, i'm sure with 3,5mm apex seals... I bouht a rebuild engine from Hurley engineering (UK) in summer 2004.

M14socom

You think that porting the wastegate will take over a weekend? Do you have any information on how this is done? Do you have a 1993 manual in pdf form or something I can look at? I wasn't planning on more than 12hrs for the whole project.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/94-fsms-available-download-449950/

Larz

Larz pulling turbos=all day affair
looking for jack=1 hour just to find my Dad swiped it and took it to Iowa
Looking for tools=1 hour plus depending on how many got pilfered while I was gone
Getting called for an emergency by my mom=she just got divorced. someone has to deal with all the man issues now, and the eldest just got elected
Actually pulling turbos=God knows. I always take longer than expected.
Reinstall of turbos=days if I didn't get all the rights consumables or can't find them

Kento

I'd agree with Rich. Even with air tools and a lift, there's no guarantee that you won't run into a problem that will take some time to solve, and the aforementioned age/heat only compounds the possibility of unforeseen problems cropping up. I've seen (and experienced) way too many wrenching situations where a seemingly simple task suddenly ends up taking far longer than expected.