WHo has a Mazda speed PPF and does it work? I broke my stock one when the car was still stock and I don't believe the Mazdaspeed one is gonna work when the car is done. I want to make over 600hp and I will do some drag racing and road racing. Is there another fix? Beside the Mazdaspeed PPF?

 

you can grab another stock ppf and reinforce it..

 

I got the Mazdaspeed one, nice and pretty red but not sure other than taking their word that it's a beefier piece.

Tim

 

Pettit claims their version is stronger, but not as pretty

 

I have a cryo treated stock PPF, I've been pleased with it thus far.

 

 

I have the mazdaspeed one, its essentially identical to stock except its pretty and painted red. I've heard that it actually weighs the same as the stock as well.

 

Noooo....you don't say...

"The Mazdaspeed power plant frame is made from hot-rolled steel plates instead of the stock stell stamped piece and is 10% stiffer. The extra stiffness reduces drivetrain bending and flexing due to on and off acceleration."



Gosh...I coulda sworn it used to read 30% stiffer. That 10% stiffness is prob from the super thick red paint

 

I've seen stock and MS side-by-side and noticed little difference as far as reinforcement is concerned. I think "AMP" was on the money when he said to just beef up a stock PPF. You could probably just inspect your broken PPF and figure out which areas are in need of reinforcement. The labor should be pretty cheap since all you'll need is a couple slabs of steel MIG'd onto it. For even more strength get it powdercoated red afterwards, but you may or may not need the extra strength depending on how many stickers you are running.

-Rob

 

Is it PPF only on the 94 and 95 model?

 

If you find a 93 w/o one, it's in SERIOUS trouble The PPF is an essential part of the chassis & drivetrain. To quote Mazda:

"The pleasure of driving a sports car lies in the feeling of oneness between car and driver. It is a sensation felt only when the movement of the car immediately and precisely reflects the driver's input, such as the g-forces experienced when accelerating or decelerating. These characteristics are still important even though the new RX-7 is not intended to be a car that is merely fast in a straight line. Accurate response to delicate throttle openings is essential for enjoyable, controlled cornering.

Although our philosophy was to reduce weight down to the last gram, we accepted weight increases in some areas at the expense of the reductions made in hundreds of other parts. The Powerplant Frame is one such example and is bolted between the trailing edge of the transmission case and the leading edge of the differential case, thus rigidly connecting these two drivetrain components. This effectively transforms the engine, transmission and differential into one unit. The distance between the front and rear mountings has been expanded to 2150mm, so that when starting from rest the reactionary forces that act on the differential case are reduced and the torque is transmitted directly and linearly to the roadas traction. This process eliminates differential wind-up, resulting in transmission of torque that is free from lag and vibration. It is like having the engine, or more accurately the rear wheels, directly connected to the driver's right foot.
Another benefit of the adoption of the Powerplant Frame is the reduced pitching motion of the engine resulting in more precise feel to the gearbox. Furthermore, since there is no need for mounting points on the gearbox, the location of the engine and the floor pan could be lowered substantially. In the event of a crash, the Powerplant Frame is designed to crumple progressively to absorb the impact.

The Powerplant Frame offers many advantages, however, we did not accept the extra weight unconditionally. On the main frame, which is made of high-tensile steel, there are large apertures and by creating a closed section with the inner frame made of vibration-absorbing steel, the entire frame is exceedingly strong yet lightweight. The Torsen limited-slip differential is another weighty contribution which we employed to realize direct and accurate throttle control."

 

So i guess no one has tried to make their own PPF or somrthing to replace it. Or has anyone tried to eliminate it?

 

I've wondered about the elimination myself. Does anyone think it could be removed if you used solid diff mounts and a tranny brace? Does the front section of the rear axel really need to be supported by the PPF?

 

i also broke mine ...then just reinforeced the **** out or it....
the tranny dosent jump up and down no more so i guess i fixed the problem ....

 

If you want to keep your U-joints in tact it does!

I don't see much benefit from eliminating it, just for the sake of getting rid of it. You will be relocating stress to other parts not meant to carry it.

Now an engine swap is a different story...

 

I think mine is cracked so I will look and see what could be done once it's removed.

 

i'd like to know where they keep on breaking at. so then i can reinforce mine when i reinstall it

 

Mine was cracked about 2 inches in front of the lower differential bolts.

 

^^So did mine^^^

I seam welded mine after fixing the huge crack on one of the mounting tabs and I noticed a hugh difference. Word of advice, don't try to weld the stamped plates to the webbing, you'll just burn a hole through the stamped plates.

 

Can someone point out where the critical points are and what material to reinforce it and how to do it?

Fe. welding a flat strip of 3mm thick steel on top and botom section ( as wide as the PPF is)? reinforcements in the connection areas?

Somebody has some pictures of that?

 

infinit1 should post a pic of his broken PPF to give you an idea of where the weak points are.

 

Sorry but it is fixed and in the car for now. I am going to put in a new engine this month and cage so maybe then.