May need more fuel, change primaries or secondaries?
#1
May need more fuel, change primaries or secondaries?
So here's the deal. I'm going to bnr stage 3s and I may need more fuel.
My current fuel setup is 550/1300 on stock rails stock pressure and a supra tt pump. I guess I have a few options. And as a note, I'd like to stay high impedance.
Id725/1300
I heard the Id725 still makes idlig pretty smooth and I'll still be able to pass smog with the right settings?
550/id2000
I heard the transition may be hard to tune because the difference is so huge? But I'll have no idling issues, which is important.
850/1300
Idle is gonna be difficult and I'll never pass smog??
Obviously correct me if my research is wrong. What do you guys think?
My current fuel setup is 550/1300 on stock rails stock pressure and a supra tt pump. I guess I have a few options. And as a note, I'd like to stay high impedance.
Id725/1300
I heard the Id725 still makes idlig pretty smooth and I'll still be able to pass smog with the right settings?
550/id2000
I heard the transition may be hard to tune because the difference is so huge? But I'll have no idling issues, which is important.
850/1300
Idle is gonna be difficult and I'll never pass smog??
Obviously correct me if my research is wrong. What do you guys think?
#5
I would suggest id2000 secondaries. If you are running a pfc I have a good base map I can send along with the purchase. www.turblown.net/store
#6
Turbo Lover
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Why wouldn't you pass smog with 850's and 1300's? Wouldn't the setup look stock and thus pass a visual inspection?
I've been running this same setup for a year now and have been running 850 primaries for 3 years. I have never had any idle problems what so ever.
I've been running this same setup for a year now and have been running 850 primaries for 3 years. I have never had any idle problems what so ever.
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#9
Just Call Me Terminator!
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i have the same setup and thought about going id1000 primaries.... i also have a brand new top mount rail sitting around. it would be cheaper because id2000's are alot more expensive and you dont have to buy an aftermarket FPR
i'll worry about it when i come to that road
i'll worry about it when i come to that road
#10
Oh right I forgot. So if I do change out the primaries for a top feed rail then I'll have to get an aftermarket FPR? And if I change out the primary to top feed I won't have to upgrade my FPR right?
Also what is it exactly that makes the 850s a "pain in the ***." Because that seems to be the easiest option.
Also what is it exactly that makes the 850s a "pain in the ***." Because that seems to be the easiest option.
#11
Don't worry be happy...
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If it makes you feel any better I have 550's with 1300's combo that supplies enough fuel for a GT35R at 15 psi. So if it ain't broke don't fix it
#13
Ding! Ding! Ding! Winner!
The easiest option is to do what Mahjik said... I'm curious what makes you think that you need to upgrade anyway? What boost level are you looking to hit?
If it makes you feel any better I have 550's with 1300's combo that supplies enough fuel for a GT35R at 15 psi. So if it ain't broke don't fix it
The easiest option is to do what Mahjik said... I'm curious what makes you think that you need to upgrade anyway? What boost level are you looking to hit?
If it makes you feel any better I have 550's with 1300's combo that supplies enough fuel for a GT35R at 15 psi. So if it ain't broke don't fix it
#14
Don't worry be happy...
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Honestly I think you should purchase a 3 bar sensor. The stock unit reads up until 17 psi so anything past that gets all jacked up. IMO anyone that is boosting above 14 psi should get one, as boost spikes or overboosting on cold weather can easily reach 17 psi when the boost level is to 15+.
#19
Completely Rotarded
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If you're going to stick with BNR's, then you should just install them first and then see if you need more fuel, as multiple people have already said. I'm running the 2000's on the stock turbos because I needed more fuel, and I did not want to worry about my fuel system again when I upgrade to a single turbo.
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When I installed my 850 primaries 3 years ago all I did was change the PFC settings to what the users recommended on this forum. Even without dyno tuning the car idled perfectly. I don't understand where this whole idea of bad idling comes from.
If it matters I had them cleaned by Witchhunter before I swapped them in and made sure that the O-rings seated perfectly.
I say you just go this route, as it's the cheapest and will give you enough fuel for what you're trying to accomplish with the BNR's. I'm actually in the same group buy as you for BNR's and I will be running this setup, as it's been proven for me running 15psi on stock twins.
Also, why would you waste all the time and money to get a car dyno tuned when there is a risk of running out of fuel. Instead of potentially making two trips to your dyno tuner why don't you just install the bigger injectors now and not have to worry about it come dyno day.
If it matters I had them cleaned by Witchhunter before I swapped them in and made sure that the O-rings seated perfectly.
I say you just go this route, as it's the cheapest and will give you enough fuel for what you're trying to accomplish with the BNR's. I'm actually in the same group buy as you for BNR's and I will be running this setup, as it's been proven for me running 15psi on stock twins.
Also, why would you waste all the time and money to get a car dyno tuned when there is a risk of running out of fuel. Instead of potentially making two trips to your dyno tuner why don't you just install the bigger injectors now and not have to worry about it come dyno day.
#23
Fast + Reliable = $$$$$
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If you decide to go with 550/1300 and an aftermarket FPR to bump up pressure, look into the adapter with barb Sard makes for the secondary stock rail. More info-----> https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...d+adapter+fuel
Also, not a bad idea to do the fuel pump voltage mod to make sure you have good flow at higher rpm's...