Today I just bought my first rx-7.
its a 94 with 84,000 miles.
I was hesitative about the mileage but it did not smoke the slightest bit at start up and seemed to make full power.
I know It will need a motor rebuild in the upcoming future but I would like the motor to last as long as possible.
I have read that small mods like intake and exhaust can hurt the engine because the rx-7s don't have a air mass meter or something?
So is upgrading the radiator a good plan?
I do not drive my cars extremely hard but I tend to put it to the floor every once in a while.
Do you think I will get 100k miles out of the engine?
also what is the best oil to use to extend life?

 

keeping up with the oil changes is very important if the engine is nearing death.

if its hot in your area, first u need a downpipe, then a radiator.

after that, save money for an engine if u think it really is near death.

u can get over 120k easy on it if u treat it nice.

 

My opinion:

1. Get a PFC. Not just because you could tune it later but you could monitor boost, intake temp, water temp, etc.
2. Check your radiator and see if it looks "OLD" if so, replace it. If not, save the money and get a PFC.
3. DOWNPIPE!

Good luck and welcome to the club... I consider owning a FD a form of addiction!

 

my first fd has well over 100k on it and last i heard was running strong on the orginal engine!

search the forum under reliability mods, there are lots of threads...
some basics:

1) boost gauge
2) dp
3) change all fluids
4) fuel filter
5) plugs/wires if original
6) remove plastic ast, replace with aluminum
7) check radiator for signs of cracking
8) check all coolant hoses/air hoses/turbo hoses. replace the bad (change all turbo lines to silicone only if you have a boost issue)
9) if you are boosting >10 with the dp, get a boost controller
10)baby her and she will be good to you for years to come

 

oops, almost forgot, FC thermoswitch!

 

#1 MOD:


BUY a DAILY DRIVER/BEATER


thank me later.

 

I 2nd that...

dp, alum ast, boost gauge, and you're all set.

 

I 3rd the daily driver mod. Best $1000 I've spent.

The biggest issue with the stock radiator is that they have plactic endtanks that eventually breach and spew coolant.

Keep a healthy budget for parts. These cars are getting old and with the heat they generate under hood components will fail. If you smell fuel, take care of it.

A PFC is nice to have but not required. It will allow you to monitor the sensors, and let you see an actual value for the temps.

 

these people are paranoid

pretend you dont know anything about cars or this forum and just drive it
leave it alone the more you fool with **** from stock the more problems youll have

getting rid of the stock ast is the only mod I suggest

 

Sure you could drive an FD daily. I've did it with my first FD. But it was senseless and frustrating to puttter around town not being able to drive the car the way it begs to be driven. For me, thats on a track.

I've spent at least $8000 just in the past 20 months. My FD came with most of the bolt ons, but there always seems to be something it needs or I want. After I get the "new" turbos on, I'll need to shop for another set of tires and some shocks.

Just this month:

Used '01 turbos ($1000)
Gaskets, fasteners and other misc parts ($500)

Other stuff:
Main wiring harness ($700)
SS oil metering pump lines ($100)
breached fuel line ($10), fuel injector/rail o-rings ($?)
Fuel pulsation damper ($120)
All coolant hoses ($300)
Lower intake manifold gasket ($??)

12/03
Oil Change 12/03/03 - 113366
Eclipse CD/stereo, new speakers F&R
Recover driver seat
Change brake fluid
Change Differential fluid
Change transmission fluid...found leak.
02/04
Replaced (for fifth gear) 17-411J, 17-522, the spring and ball in the shift rod and holds it in gear
Replaced rear main seal
Replaced rear main bearing
Replaced rear counter bearing
Reseal transmission to stop leak
Replaced clutch, pilot bearing and throwout bearing
Replace more turbo hoses with silicon
Install M2 ss downpipe
Fixed climate control ****
Change oil and filter, Feb 28
Install new ss Racing Beat dual tip catback
03/04
Innovate LM-1 wideband with analog gauge
Added dual gauge pod and wired boost gauge light
05/04
Change oil and filter, 117,000 miles
06/04
Fixed Cruise Control
07/04
New tires: Avon Tech M500 245/45/16 $439.54 shipped
(.7% too large: at 60 mph actual speed is 59.6 mph
08/04
Change Oil and filter, 119,000 miles
Convert a/c to 134A, replaced dryer
09/04
Change Oil and filter, 121,000 miles
Replaced check valve to pressure tank
Cleaned K&N air filter
12/04
Replaced leaking o-ring in oil filler neck
Installed better silicon coupler from IC to intake elbow
Replaced stock AST with aluminum AST
Installed AFR gauge
Installed Datalogit
01/05
Replaced fuel filter 123,100 mi
Oil and Filter change 123,100 mi
Replaced hatch lift struts
Replaced 1 inch hose from Y-pipe to CRV
02/05
Replaced plugs, wires & ignition harness 123,900 mi
03/05
Replaced WG & PC solenoids (used)
Racing brake pads

 

I agree with the paranoia however along with the AST, I do recommend a DP to help keep heat out of the engine bay and a boost gauge. A boost gauge will tell you alot about the turbo system. Lastly consistant carbon cleanings and driving the car lightly before shut down are probably the two best things you could ever do to any Rx7. Driving lightly before shutdown allows the engine to cool down with air flow through the radiator and oil cooler. Don't mess with turbo timers, there useless. Regular carbon cleanings will keep the internal seals from sticking and the engines compression high. I should know because with 97,700 miles on my original engine I can still go to the track and trap over 100 mph with my stock touring Fd.

 

^Good list, but I'd add a decent aftermarket temp guage since the stock guage is useless. Maybe K &N in the stock airbox.

 

Check my post here:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/fd-daily-driver-416578/