seann

Anyone ever done this? The groove in mine is about .005" (.0025 would clean it up) on a crankshaft grinder. Looked to see if there was a "Micro Sleeve" like engine builders use on the front and rear of crankshafts, but nothing for 68mm. I think it would be a better fix overall than just spacing the new seal. Thoughts?

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Not entirely sure what you're asking here. Pics might be a help.

I'll put it this way, on all the engines I've built I've yet to have any appreciable leak from a rear main seal, and some of the engines were high mileage FC engines with high mileage flywheels.

Dale

Andre The Giant

iTrader: (21)

New rear main seal should not have a problem conforming to an existing groove that shallow. I'm not sure about the rear main seal on the rotary, but I have been taught in the past to seat the new seal a tiny bit deeper than the old one so that the lip does not ride on the exact same spot. Again, I'm not sure if the rotary has the space to be able to do this.

seann

Did the clutch on this a few years ago, noticed the groove at the time, didn't think it was a big deal either so I put a new seal in and moved on. It always leaked a bit, thought it was the pan. Just did the pan finally (and the vac hose job), still leaks. Pulled the lower inspection cover, oil dripping from inside bellhousing. Tranny out last night, picked up rear seal, stationary gear o-ring and front trans seal. Just thought cleaning up the seal riding surface would make it as good as it could be. I want a dry floor!

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Look up "speedi-sleev" on skf.com

Turblown

iTrader: (12)

Just set the rear main seal at a different depth...