That's right on the edge of being within spec. How many miles are on the motor? seems kinda weak.

For comparison, my motor pulled 104 psi across the board, with 10k on the apex seals and 50k on the rotor housings.

 

id say this motor has around 54k. anyway anyone know how i can start my car? no one seems to know

 

keep in mind goodfella this compression was done cold so it could be much higher..

 

When my motor didn't start after a winter:

I had a new battery and it was fully charged but this didn't help so a tuner in Sweden told me to use an other car to jumpstart it. Conclusion is that the rotary engine needs alot of power!!

Try jumpstart it with the second car at 2000 rpm.

Good luck!

 

Honestly, I don't know what those connectors are connected to, but if it's coming off the engine harness they are probably pretty damn important!
Side note- when I first put my reman in and started it, it ran for about 15 seconds and made a loud backfire noise. I forgot to connect the TPS.
Are you getting any check engine codes?

 

i put the diag mode and ground to gether turn the key t as far as it will go witout starting. and the light is on like normal then it blinks once and it comes back on and doesnt come off. ive tried jump starting my FD with a van lol. i dont think it was on 2k though.. ill try that next i gues.. could it be my under drive pully? mybe i put the belts too tight or something. because i used the normal sized belts and havent bought the 51' for it. i dont know anymore. im giving up after this. where is the TPS sensor

 

Tps conn is on the throttle body, firewall side, right below the coolant line. Gray outside, orange inside, 4 prong female connector. It would have shown up in the diagnostic codes though.

 

yeah i remember that one was a bitch to pull out and put in. anyways.. i think its a fuel problem. because now when i use starter fluid it will run for about 3 seconds.. anyone know where i shouild look first? i doulbe cheacked all my fuel lines btw.

 

I hate to sound like a broke record, but I still say it's your connectors that arent plugged in.
One thing you said that clicked is "and the light is on like normal then it blinks once and it comes back on and doesnt come off."
Mine did that and wouldn't start once, I finally figured out one of the connectors wasnt pushed all the way into the ecu.
You need somebody that knows the wiring inside and out. Or call a shop that's installed lot's of JDM motors. Ask them.

 

yes

 

why does everyone love JDM ****?

"Ohh it's from Japan! "

- Why did you buy it?

"so that I'd need a special computer to read my ECU codes when there's a problem, oh and to lower reliability and have an engine built to run at a higher elevation.

-Um so why did you buy it again?

"Oh wha? I'm sorry I wasn't listening. I was concentrating on putting on my 'Type R' stickers."

 

dude shut the **** up with your gay *** fc and stay out of my thread

 

pop was the starter fluid i did a little experiment. anyway i have fuel pressure and my fuel lines correct so i assume it is something else down the line.. fuel pulsation dampner,injector, or maybe a bad injector ground or something.. anyone want to throw anything in?

 

sorry for taking so long but here is some food for thought...

Its very unlikely that the problem is within that blue connector as (if I remember correctly - and I'm working right

now to verify all of this), the blue connector is what connect the engine harness to the front harness. The front

harness is what connects to things such as the gauge clusters and other computer components of the car. The ECU that

runs the engine is really only one of several computers in the car.

Now in your PMs you've told me you have a Cali-Spec ECU, a J-Spec, and a PFC... Which are you using? I'm going to assume that you're using the J-Spec stock ecu or a US-Spec PFC. The wiring in the four yellow connectors that run to the ecu and the blue connectors that connect the engine harness to the front harness are SLIGHTLY different between the US Spec wiring harness and J Spec. After I write this little bit, I'm going to go out to my car and try to atleast map out some of the wire color codes. Some of them are a little off from the US Spec wiring diagrams but most are the same. It'll take me a little while to cross-reference all of these so I might not have a complete or accurate list for you until tomorrow but I'll get it done.

These differences cause some issues when using a J-Spec harness on a US Spec stock ecu or US Spec PFC. I chose to run the J-Spec ecu in my car. While having the US Spec ecu connected to the J Spec engine harness I've had some minor success getting my car to start but the US Spec ecu throws codes all over the place (never wrote them down so I can't tell you which codes are thrown), revs like a cripple and it eventually shuts off.

As far as that blue connector that doesn't fit... I ended up swapping that out with my US Spec connector that goes in the same place. It seems that you wouldn't have that connector since you never had a US Spec engine harness but using some INSULATED butt or spade connectors you should be able to create a removable splicing directly into the US Spec front harness which is the blue connector that runs down inside the car.

So... What I've just told you doesn't solve your problem but atleast gives you a little insight to the issue and lets you know what I'm going to be doing to help you. Its going to take a little time so just be patient. I'll try to take some pictures of the various things I'm talking about to maybe help out a little further.

 

i guess i will be switching to the JDM spec ecu. and maybe after it runs i will use the US SPEC pfc that is tuned to my car to run it. as for that connector you say blue that didnt fit you swaped it out? the blue one coming off the wiring harness correct? ill try to do my best to find that connector though, i doubt it is readily availible. ill try the for sale section. as for the yelloq connector the smaller one coming off the engine harness. i have that soldered to a new connector because the one sent to me was damaged. THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR YOUR HELP.

 

Injectors will stick from sitting. How long was it that this engine was last run before you bought it?

You should pulse the injectors using an injector pulse tool. If they don't free up you will need to get them cleaned and flow tested while you are at it.

We have seen injectors lock up from sitting in as little as a week.

Joe Geiman
Gasoline Alley Fuel Injection
Speedway, In

www.lindertech.com

 

THAT COULD BE IT!!! where do i find a pulse injection tool.. you think i can soak it in redlines fuel injector cleaner stead? maybe shake it around? [joke] but what about soaking them? how long does it take to get to the injectors anyhow?

 

Most Automotive techs that do drivability diagnosis will have a injector pulser in their tool box.

We have them, I don't want to to use this forum as a selling venue though. But if you cannot find a source, inquire at the Gasoline Alley Fuel Injection website. www.lindertech.com.

This device connects to the car battery and plugs into the individual injector and has settings to pulse the injector at different duty cycles. If the injectors do not pulse you will have to send it some place for a cleaning and flow test. We perform this service as well. In fact if you send them to my attn at work, I will have them cleaned and tested for free. PM me to set this up.