loud pop.. dead motor?
07-10-06, 11:55 PM
#1
loud pop.. dead motor?
i just completed installing my jdm engine. at the initial start there was only cranking. so i checked the spark plugs, replaced the plugs and plug wires. i did the spark plug check and saw spark. so its not spark, next i sprayed starting fluid into the two nipples on the uim and tryed to start again. there was a loud pop after 3-5 seconds. the pop sounded like a tire running over a rock and crushing it at low speed if you get what i mean. so i try a second time with more starting fluid' this time a pop and chug like it wants to start but doesnt. anyone know what could be the problem? ive SEARCHED back to early 2005 and nothing like my situation. before the jdm engine my car was just a roller that had been sitting around for awhile. i replaced the fuel filter while the gauge read E so all the old gas should be out. also i added about 4 gallons of fresh fuel into the tank. dont know what the problem could be. im getting a compression check sometime tommorrow hopefully. thanks ahead of time for reading
07-11-06, 07:34 AM
#3
Original Gangster/Rotary!
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I never ever recommend JDM engines, exactly because of the problems you're having. Get a rebuilt engine by someone who knows their ****. If your engine made a sound 'ike a tire running over a rock and crushing it at low speed' then I would definitely not be happy 
07-11-06, 08:49 AM
#4
Eye In The Sky
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When installing an engine, if the installer is not very knowlegeably of FDs; many things can go wrong.
If the engine wiring harness is not new, it can cause many problems because they are usually in very bad condition, and should be replaced.
I always opened my hood for engine compartment cooling after getting home.
Even so, when I replaced my engine when the car was 7 years old, the harness was in bad shape. So I replaced it.
Rick and I have done engine replacements where the car had starting/running problems until the harness was replaced. We got to the point where will would not do a replacement unless the harnes was also changed out.
The original harness was made with very low quality wire which had poor anti- moisture abilty, and became brittle too soon. If you wiring or wiring covering is brittle or rock hard, once it is disturbed, it can fail.
If the engine wiring harness is not new, it can cause many problems because they are usually in very bad condition, and should be replaced.
I always opened my hood for engine compartment cooling after getting home.
Even so, when I replaced my engine when the car was 7 years old, the harness was in bad shape. So I replaced it.
Rick and I have done engine replacements where the car had starting/running problems until the harness was replaced. We got to the point where will would not do a replacement unless the harnes was also changed out.
The original harness was made with very low quality wire which had poor anti- moisture abilty, and became brittle too soon. If you wiring or wiring covering is brittle or rock hard, once it is disturbed, it can fail.
07-11-06, 09:46 AM
#5
Original Gangster/Rotary!
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Originally Posted by cewrx7r1
When installing an engine, if the installer is not very knowlegeably of FDs; many things can go wrong.
If the engine wiring harness is not new, it can cause many problems because they are usually in very bad condition, and should be replaced.
I always opened my hood for engine compartment cooling after getting home.
Even so, when I replaced my engine when the car was 7 years old, the harness was in bad shape. So I replaced it.
Rick and I have done engine replacements where the car had starting/running problems until the harness was replaced. We got to the point where will would not do a replacement unless the harnes was also changed out.
The original harness was made with very low quality wire which had poor anti- moisture abilty, and became brittle too soon. If you wiring or wiring covering is brittle or rock hard, once it is disturbed, it can fail.
If the engine wiring harness is not new, it can cause many problems because they are usually in very bad condition, and should be replaced.
I always opened my hood for engine compartment cooling after getting home.
Even so, when I replaced my engine when the car was 7 years old, the harness was in bad shape. So I replaced it.
Rick and I have done engine replacements where the car had starting/running problems until the harness was replaced. We got to the point where will would not do a replacement unless the harnes was also changed out.
The original harness was made with very low quality wire which had poor anti- moisture abilty, and became brittle too soon. If you wiring or wiring covering is brittle or rock hard, once it is disturbed, it can fail.
I havent had one issue with my FD since switching out the wiring harness over 2 years ago
07-11-06, 10:28 AM
#6
this harness is not new. but it is not brittle for sure. its still very flexible and very little crusty tape is coming off. this car had a hose job done so im pretty sure the owner kind of knew what he was doing. im thinking its the starter fluid. what does the fuel pump sound like and when does it turn on? right when you turn the key correct? then its kind of like a whine? well i dont hear it. so maybe is could be no fuel pump. as for fuel lines im pretty sure i got them right.
07-11-06, 10:37 AM
#7
yes it should be fairly obvious. Open your tank and listen...........no sound. Then turn key so that the warning lights are up and then go back and listen. THere should be a very distinct noise....if no noise then correct the pump is not priming. Check fuses ect
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07-11-06, 11:49 AM
#8
i hear the fuel pump now. it is very faint and hard to hear over the 'key in ignitiion beeping' im not sure if it goes if i dont connect the fp and ground in the diagnosis box or not. after it pumps it wont pump again for awhile right
Last edited by pinkrx7; 07-11-06 at 12:04 PM.
07-11-06, 12:24 PM
#9
my fuel hoses are correct left is from fuel filter middle top is from charcoal and far right is to tank. i took off the right one and fuel came out so the return is fine.. i dont know what this could be the more i look into it the more iam lost
07-11-06, 02:35 PM
#11
It Just Feels Right
I think there is a another set of wires that connect the blue connector to the one under the dash there. I just installed a wiring harness and ran into that problem. Then I realized there was another wire on my old wiring harness needed to make the blue ones connect.
Sounds like that is your problem. I'll try to take a pic of it when I get home in an hour.
Sounds like that is your problem. I'll try to take a pic of it when I get home in an hour.
Last edited by mibad; 07-11-06 at 02:42 PM.
07-11-06, 02:49 PM
#13
i just saw i already have one set of blue connectors connected. but those arent coming off the engine harness. the one coming off the engine harness is a little bit bigger. there is a connector that isnt connected near where the ecu goes but it is too short by one column to connect.
07-11-06, 05:25 PM
#14
It Just Feels Right
Here's a pic of mine. the blue conn from the wiring harness plugs into a set of wires that run over to the blue connector by the fender. It also runs up to the white conn under the dash.
Last edited by mibad; 07-11-06 at 05:30 PM.
07-11-06, 06:54 PM
#16
as you can see in the picture i circled the blue one. my blue one is 2 connectors too long to fit into the firewall side. and that white connector... i cant find the recieving side.. i looked up into the firewall and saw another one like it but not it. i dont know where that black clip goes to either..
07-12-06, 12:02 AM
#19
Eye In The Sky
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The little black clip is used by Mazda only for testing the cooling system.
With the original cooling system recall, they added some jumper cables and that little black box which is a timer/switch module.
If you install the new engine harness, the jumpers are no longer needed as they are intergrated into it.
That little black connecter is the FAMOUS fan mod wire from the black box. When it is grounded, it turns on the cooling fans if not already on, if already on, then it bumps their speed up one notch. If grounded 2 minutes before turning off the engine and the engine is hot, the fans will run for 10 minutes post shut down.
Many of us non newbs have installed a manual switch on the center console just for these purposes.
With the original cooling system recall, they added some jumper cables and that little black box which is a timer/switch module.
If you install the new engine harness, the jumpers are no longer needed as they are intergrated into it.
That little black connecter is the FAMOUS fan mod wire from the black box. When it is grounded, it turns on the cooling fans if not already on, if already on, then it bumps their speed up one notch. If grounded 2 minutes before turning off the engine and the engine is hot, the fans will run for 10 minutes post shut down.
Many of us non newbs have installed a manual switch on the center console just for these purposes.
07-12-06, 01:08 AM
#21
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Originally Posted by cewrx7r1
The original harness was made with very low quality wire which had poor anti- moisture abilty, and became brittle too soon. If you wiring or wiring covering is brittle or rock hard, once it is disturbed, it can fail.
please tell me there is a reasonable alternative
07-13-06, 08:09 AM
#24
What's your point ?
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Originally Posted by pinkrx7
why a switch and not just permanatly ground it? why not the FC thermostat? why not the fan relay mod? lol.
still want to know what the blue engine harness connector does.. anyone?
still want to know what the blue engine harness connector does.. anyone?
If you ground the wire permenately then it's like leaving a light on and will run your battery down over time, that's why the switch. If you turn the switch on and leave it on for 2 min. the fans will run when you shut the car off (engine hot or not) and if you wait aprox 10 seconds after turning the car off to turn the fan switch off the fans should drop from medium speed to slow speed and run for 10 min. You can try this by turning the ignition switch to on with the fan switch on (no need to start the car) after two minutes the fans will come on medium speed, turn the ignition off wait 10 seconds turn the fan switch off and the speed should drop to low speed and run for ten minutes without ever running the engine.