DGblk93

Searched around a lot but I still want some opinions from the forum (if you don't mind). Please don't roast me, I feel like there are a couple of paths I can take next and you guys have already been there. Bought the car bone stock and did the following:


Cold Air Intake (Pettit)
DP, High Flow Cat, Racing Beat dual tip cat back
all new boost hoses and vac lines (and a couple of solenoids)
new plugs and 10mm Magnecor wires
Boost Gauge
Turbo XS manual boost controller
great 10-8-10 boost all day long

KD Rotary did a compression test and told me the results were awesome. Said my 53,000 mile original engine was giving almost perfect compression readings. I wouldn't know since all they gave me as evidence are a couple of slips that look like EKG printouts. Had it dynoed. Max HP was 245 and max Torque was 263. It had a boost spike of 16 lbs (that's before the boost controller). On cold days I'll see a fuel cut at 6K and 11 lbs.

So I know I'll probably need upgraded engine management - and I've read that forum. Upgraded SMIC is where I think I want to go too.

To make some bigger HP gains, what would you do next? Thanks for any input.

wReX

iTrader: (6)

ECU.(period)

KaiFD3S

iTrader: (37)

as far as next mod you should get a ECU like an apex power fc and after that an intercooler.

question on your dyno, are you sure that is right where in your torque is higher than your HP, that is kinda strange

Rx-7Addict

iTrader: (2)

You def. need an ECU and a fuel pump for those mods...

dont worry about HP gains yet. you need to mod your car to be able to sustain all those mods with enough fuel and engine management before you should think about more power... dont want to blow a motor..

Rx-7Addict

iTrader: (2)

if he is boost spiking at say, 5000 rpm (to 16psi) its possible to have a lot of torque at that RPM and that much boost.

my car torque peaked at 4750rpm.

Either way, that is not safe to spike to 16psi. Get that ECU

DGblk93

Thanks guys. Looking at the dyno chart - the max torque happened at the boost spike of 16psi. and 4850rpm. If buy a Power FC and the commander, can I do the tuning on my own, or should I get it to a shop. I've never used one.

I also figured the fuel pump is another logical step. Thanks.

KaiFD3S

iTrader: (37)

tuning your car is easy if you understand how to read maps, just to be safe your better off having somebody experienced tune it first and try to learn so that way you dont blow your engine. and yes I did forget to mention fuel pump...

importrx7

1.ECU
2.AST
3.Radiator

DGblk93

Forgot to mention - I do have the Aluminum AST. Why do you say radiator? Even if I stick with a SMIC?

importrx7

The stock radiator is junk, the plastic end tanks will degrade and split over time. The cooling system is where mazda cheaped out on.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Definitely have it professionally tuned. There is a guy up here (not too far from you) who goes by Boostn7 on the forum that will be tuning my car soon. He is supposed to be one of the best with the Power FC, and a great tune is invaluable to a good running motor. I have blown up from bad tuning, so it is very possible.

DGblk93

OK - Good heads up. I am aware of the cooling issues with the car.

DGblk93

Thanks Goodfella. Where is he located? I think you've been to KD too, right? Boostn7 is a better alternative? I want to do the right things in the right order - seems like you've gone down this path a few times. I appreciate your advice.

tcb100

Boostn7 hit the 10s on the stock twins. KD is not known for their tuning expertise but if you get the opportunity to have Boostn7 tune your car, jump on it.

But he needs something to tune so you need a PFC and a bigger intercooler.

I would not sweat the radiator or the fuel pump just yet.

cloud9

iTrader: (4)

/\ true, but if you want to be making more power, fuel mods are in your near future

DGblk93

I will take the opportunity to get it tuned by him, no doubt. Thanks.

Sounds like I should just get both the fuel pump and the IC at the same time. Oh wait - the power FC comes first. This is why I posted the question. Figured I got to that inevitable $3000+ upgrade stage and it would have to be a couple of things together. I have the funds set aside, just needed to be sure I put the $ into the right things.

Good info. I'll keep reading if anyone wants to put their $0.02 in. Thanks a lot.

Howard Coleman

iTrader: (6)

speed costs money... how fast do you want to go.

congrats as you have nice mods on your car.

i agree w most posters as to your next step being an upgraded ecu. there are a number of options and i suggest the power fc. it is easy to get to know and is quite sophisticated as to what you can do with it.

if you have a tight budget i suggest you monitor this forum's classified section and you should be able to snag one used. by the way i have #15 in the country bought in 1999 from SR and it is still going strong.

i do recommend in the longer term that you do your own tuning after an initial tune. this requires a datalogit and a wideband. again both can be bought used in the classifieds if you invest the time. i run a Techedge wideband but there are many other brands. you'll need a laptop in your car to log.

the next item would be a fuel pump. i recommend the cosmo pump. it is a drop in and should be purchased new. the walbro might be an option. it may be cheaper and is also a drop in. both pumps are good for 375 rwhp.

i run a cosmo but have twin garrett t04s, a full tilt engine and, though in initial tuning, have made 480 rwhp. so how do i do itwith a cosmo pump running 850 and 1600 injectors? i run a Kenne Bell Boost A Pump. upon sensing boost it adds voltage to the fuel pump juicing the output. i bring this up to point out that you can go w the cosmo and continue to use it if you decide to move up the HP ladder.

then next upgrade would be intercooler.... again there are a number of options. tight budgets should check the classifieds for a good condition peter farrell intercooler. it is compact, mounted in near stock position, has a nice duct and really nice flow in and out of the heat exchanger. i have a friend that has run it since 1994 on his fd and we track together at Brainerd and he runs his car w an extremely heavy foot at 16 psi. it does a magnificent job and can be bought used for around $500. a steal. (make sure you get the duct).

i run Kevin Wyum's excellent ASP large. stock location. really big... you have to move the battery to the rear.... ( by the way that is an inexpensive mod that pays dividends as to weight redistribution and getting crap out of the engine compartment). Kevin also makes a medium IC that works very very well. i don't recommend front mounted intercoolers.

as to radiators.... the stock radiator is 15/16 thick and has plastic endtanks. as long as it is in excellent condition it works well. i have run a 2 inch aluminum radiator since 1999. it runs approx the same water temperature as the stock radiator. if your radiator is in great condition i would have no problem continuing to use it but would eventually upgrade.

a few non hp mods....

part of why you own your fd is you appreciate the way it handles. you can greatly upgrade that with a set of Eibach pro kit or Tein s tech springs. there is no need to change shocks as they will work magnificently w the aforementioned springs. ( i have a shock dyno... i know) springs run approx $125-250. either set will transform your car. you don't need coil overs... just buy a springset.

align your car... 1.2 degrees neg camber front and rear. less than an 1/8 th inch toe in fr and r. zero thrust angle. run 30 psi front and 28-27 tire pressure rear set cold.

next, junk your power steering. it has no place on a 2750 pound sports car and kills all road feel. you will love this inexpensive mod. do not just remove the belt as the car will drive like a dump truck. you must remove all the components.

relocate your battery to the pass luggage compartment... you will need a sealed battery.

switch to EBC green brake pads. replace the front bushings in the rear trailing arms w nylon. ditto the bushings for the differential.

down the road you will want to junk the oem turbosystem. it is 22 pounds of heat retaining cast iron bolted to the side of your block and it is the major element as to fd rotary engine failure.

but that's another chapter in the slippery expensive slope as i said speed costs money.

good luck,

howard coleman

rotorsownyou7

I say radiator first. Then maybe Power FC.

alberto_mg

how about a high performance drivers ed course

jeff p

High Five to Howard Coleman on a great reply. these type of replies are why I joined the forum... keep up the good work. good luck with your new FD DGblk93.
Jeff

DGblk93

Howard - what can I say??? That's awesome stuff. I put the post out there in hopes I would get a few lines of suggestions. That's the kind of advice people pay for! Thanks very, very much. I looked at fuel pumps today and RX7store.net seems to have some decent prices - and they stock the cosmo pump. Thanks for the heads up on suspension too. I was wondering if it would make sense to keep the stock shocks - I'll do that.

The power steering - will it be a pain in the *** when turning in tight spots, etc?

Glad I joined the forum. Thanks all for giving me a lot of info to work with.

Howard Coleman

iTrader: (6)

dave,

i just can't let your power steering comment alone.

of all my mods manual steering is my #1 favorite. what is the one thing that you have the most feedback tactile relationship with while driving?

that'd be the steering wheel.

as i said, with power steering you might as well be playing a video game.

because our cars weigh so little, around 650 front cornerweight, they are never a drudge w manual steering. and the dividends are huge. all the time you are driving the car is talking to you.

i run 18X8.5 front and i have never been in a situation, since i removed my ps in 99, that i regreted the mod.

manual steering is a win win win.

win... road feel at last

win... 20 pounds of front weight (less is more) off the car... my car is 48% front weight

win... heat soaking bulk out of the engine compartment being replaced by circulating air.

in addition to roadfeel, power steering removal falls under the important category of weight removal/redistribution and enhanced cooling.

one important detail.
do not just remove the power steering belt to experiment as to how manual steering might feel. you will be manually providing the heretofore engine provided hp to recycle the hydraulics in the pump... which takes some horses BTW, as well as providing the steering effort. you need to remove the pump and hydraulic lines and plug a few ports as well as draining most of the hydraulic fluid from the rack.

love it,

howard coleman

Larz

So will aftermarket twin systems produce less heat or would you advocate going single for that purpose?

RacerX_IU

I would get a radiator and an ecu at the same time. I wouldnt go with the power fc. I would get a microtech or a haltech, both are priced similar to the power fc and if you shop around you could even pick one up for cheaper. You will have much more potential going that route. Since you will need some kind of engine management system and plan on tuning, you will need a wideband. The more i think the more you should save and do all of this at once. along with what i suggested i would also get an intercooler, upgrade fuel pump and injectors. then go get it tuned that way you dont have to take it more then once. I like most of coleman's suggestions!!!

Rx-7Addict

iTrader: (2)

Going single should be based on power needs and cost, not necessarily heat concerns. if you are very concerned about under-hood temps, I would get a vented hood.