JRockCLS

This list is based on the "Buying A Used RX-7" guide found here:
http://rx7.voodoobox.net/infofaq/bguide3g/bguide3g.html

and also a few other things I've noticed from posts on this forum.

For explanations of things on the list check that site since it covers most items.

Please let me know what else I should add to this list. Thank you.


Check paint condition.
Check tire tread left.
Has it been state inspected? (That should take care of things like tire life and brake pad life, etc)
Get the VIN. (CarFax it)
Recalls been performed? (Can be verified through Mazda with the VIN)
AST been replaced with aluminum unit or removed?
Service history?
Had a compression test? (Should be around 100psi, no more than 20psi variant between chambers.)
Engine been overhauled/rebuilt? What did that include?
What oil used? (No synthetic)
Fuel Filter been replaced recently?
Coolant flush recently?
Plugs changed recently?
Check oil dipstick for water
Check coolant cap for any signs of oil in coolant
New hoses and vaccuum lines?
Check interior trim condition - any peeling?
Any smoke from exhaust after start up?
5th gear synchro?
Power antenna work?
Oil pressure guage reading properly? (Weak sending units common)
Check for smooth idle after a good run.
Pre-cat removed and replaced with a downpipe?
Smooth acceleration?
Smoke from tailpipe during accel?
Check idle with A/C, headlights, radio (volume down), and stepping on the brakes - should not stall) <--Is this done with the car in gear but clutch disengaged, or car in neutral and foot off the clutch pedal, or does it matter?

That's what I have so far.

One question: What should a proper overhaul/rebuild include?

New Apex seals - preferably 3mm (what brand?) ones is what I see people say around here.
What else?

NukeGenius

-Bring a boost gage if it doesnt have one and check the boost pattern. You are looking for a 10-8-10 psig if it is still sequential. Search for more info on this if you want.

Rx-7Addict

iTrader: (2)

Look for white smoke on startup and any type of sweet smell when first started or when driving. This is a sign the engine is going - coolant seals wearing out

Good luck finding an FD, its not easy but worth it in the end!

Manolis_D

iTrader: (2)

The jury's still out on 3mm Apex seals 2mm still do a better job IMHO

mad_7tist

def see the car when it is cold once. watch it at start up look in the filler neck for bubles. smell the smoke etc..

JRockCLS

Yeah but who has a boost gauge, duct tape, and a vaccuum line carried around with them for testing while driving?


Btw, what do you mean bubbles in the filler neck? Where is this under the hood?

diablone

iTrader: (2)

The people that know what they're doing.

evot23

iTrader: (17)

If you know you are going to test a car, why not bring it? Testing the boost pattern is a pretty good way of seeing how well the engine/vac lines are.

Well that answers some questions....

evot23

iTrader: (17)

All this should be in the archives.

Beast From The East

On top of bubbles in the coolant, put a smog sniffer in the open rad cap and check for the presence of hydrocarbons. Anything over 50 ppm = seals going. Can detect earlier stages of coolant seal failure vs. the bubbles test.

Beast

JRockCLS

hahahahaha I just realized the way I worded that sounded REALLY bad. I mean I know you mean the filler neck for the coolant reservoir, but I mean how is one supposed to check that under the hood while inside the car starting it up? Or is this a process one can see while the car is running?

bee

lol.. You scared me for a second there.

Start the car cold, dont let the bastard warm it up before you get there. Check for white smoke and a sweet smell. Before car warms up, pull the cap off the filler neck and look inside with a flash light, even a small stream of bubbles can mean trouble.