Linearizing the 3rd gen. temperature gauge...
Thread Starter
Super Snuggles
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 10,091
Likes: 34
From: Redmond, WA
Linearizing the 3rd gen. temperature gauge...
I've just read through the document on linearizing the third gen. tempearture gauge.
http://us.share.geocities.com/sdrx7_...structions.pdf
Basically, I want to eliminate the adjustability (potentiometer) of the system and perform my modifications in one spot, on the gauge itself, if possible. The document shows a 100 ohm resistor in parallel with a potentiometer which ranges to 25 ohms in series to calibrate the gauge. The only modification shown to the gauge itself is a jumper wire soldered into the two open holes in the circuit board for the gauge.
I obviously don't have as much concern with temperature, since I won't have a rotary engine and I'm using Evans NPG+, but I do want a functioning temperature gauge, and not one that sits in the middle.
Does anyone with an electrical engineering background know if there is a way to modify what is shown in the instructions for linearizing the gauge to include all the components necessary to calibrate it in a fixed fashion, on the gauge itself, without the potentiometer? I'm assuming that this could also be accomplished in the dash wiring, behind the gauges, and eliminate the need for something else in the engine compartment.
A fixed value resistor (22-25 ohm) in series and a 100 ohm resistor in parallel with the wire which connects to the thermistor on the engine should do the trick, depending on what the "hot" range of the gauge is desired to be. (22 ohm = ~247 F, 25 ohm = ~237 F)
Has anyone attempt to linearize their gauge by a means different than the process outlined in the document above? If so, what were your results?
Thanks!
http://us.share.geocities.com/sdrx7_...structions.pdf
Basically, I want to eliminate the adjustability (potentiometer) of the system and perform my modifications in one spot, on the gauge itself, if possible. The document shows a 100 ohm resistor in parallel with a potentiometer which ranges to 25 ohms in series to calibrate the gauge. The only modification shown to the gauge itself is a jumper wire soldered into the two open holes in the circuit board for the gauge.
I obviously don't have as much concern with temperature, since I won't have a rotary engine and I'm using Evans NPG+, but I do want a functioning temperature gauge, and not one that sits in the middle.
Does anyone with an electrical engineering background know if there is a way to modify what is shown in the instructions for linearizing the gauge to include all the components necessary to calibrate it in a fixed fashion, on the gauge itself, without the potentiometer? I'm assuming that this could also be accomplished in the dash wiring, behind the gauges, and eliminate the need for something else in the engine compartment.
A fixed value resistor (22-25 ohm) in series and a 100 ohm resistor in parallel with the wire which connects to the thermistor on the engine should do the trick, depending on what the "hot" range of the gauge is desired to be. (22 ohm = ~247 F, 25 ohm = ~237 F)
Has anyone attempt to linearize their gauge by a means different than the process outlined in the document above? If so, what were your results?
Thanks!
Last edited by jimlab; Feb 11, 2002 at 01:00 PM.
Thread Starter
Super Snuggles
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 10,091
Likes: 34
From: Redmond, WA
Has anyone simply soldered in the jumper wire and NOT done the calibration and potentiometer modications? I'm wondering what the normal output of the thermistor is and whether or not you really need to be able to change the impedance being "read" by the gauge, or if the potentiometer setup was just for changing the "hot" reading level...
Damn it, where's Derek Vanditmars when you need him?
Damn it, where's Derek Vanditmars when you need him?
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