Maybe I missed it, but I didn't see any mention of "full exhaust". With DP, stock cat or even a HF cat, and cat-back, there shouldn't be a need for porting the WG or fuel management. And Wargasm specifically warned him on a midpipe.

 

can someone agree that what is being stated is a "this worked for me" situation, "full exhaust" or not I have a DP, intake, and STOCK CAT. Stock ecu and I got boost spikes a mile above sea level? Is that healthy? no! I would watch out and like people said monitor your boost patterns and don't be pushing it. I still would not take that chance for $4000 dollars on a new engine. I have a feeling that you go ahead and get a DP, intake and high flow and no Fuel Man., you are going to experience boost spike more times than not. Just get a MBC and that way you can keep the boost at acceptable ranges. I would not do it, that is why the cat and exhaust is like the last thing on my list. I like my original 44,000 mile engine. I think that some of what people are saying is a little misleading. sorry if I stepped on anyones toes. Merry Christmas!!!

 

The truth is that every car is different. Some people get boost creep, others get spikes, others none at all. And they all could have the same mods.

Basically it comes to this: Control the max boost to 10 psi and you will not require any type of fuel management system. I mean 10 psi MAX no spikes no creeps no NOTHING. If you can't control the boost then you go for the fuel management system.

you mean creep right?

Red95FD,

As I said earlier see sonix7: His only mods are a DP, and intake and he gets boost creep. The only way to stop the creeping is to port the wastegate... Like he said.

Now me, my mods are:

Mild streetport, Intake, PFS SMIC, DP, midpipe, with a stock catback and stock ECU. I only got boost spikes from my set up so I purchased a EBC to and it got rid of the problem.

At first I used to have an HKS F_CON ECU but it made my car run too rich so I became afraid of carbon buildup. So I ditched it, kept my boost to 10 psi. It's been a year now and my car runs is fine. My next mod is a PFC though, with all of my mods my car would really benefit from it. Meaning my reasons for getting one is for more HP not for realibility.

 

NO YOU DON'T! You have elevated boost, which is NOT boost creep. A manual or electronic boost controller would easily lower your boost back to 10 psi, which would not be the case if you had creep.

I don't recall anyone telling him to get a midpipe, and in any case several of us gave him good advice earlier in the thread....

I think that you may be a little too paranoid to enjoy driving these cars...

 

That's a bit harsh

I honestly think that every car has it's own "personality" and is slightly different...

An electronic boost controller DIDN'T work for me, even with ported wastegates..

 

Yes Rick Please Do Show Us Some Pic's, And Congrats On The Car! I Was No Mechanic When I Purchased Mine Either, But I Have Done Everything To Mine Myself, You Just Need To Take Your Time With Whatever You Are Doing, Clean And Label Parts And Purchase An Owners Manual. The Owners Manual Will Save You A Million Fold.

Enjoy, Jamie....

 

yes thank you for the correction. I agree, every car is different. Ok throw the midpipe comment out, I meant any type of cat back or even stock like mine. I am paranoid. I have spent too much money and time not to be. I just care to do the right thing. I do have a MBC and PFC. I just said what I experienced before all that. Elevated boost, whatever, it was not safe to the health of my engine. I took care of it. I guess just know every situation is different and everyone gave good advice. I just wanted clarification. Thanx.

 

I'm only adding a K&N filter, Bonez DP, and a RB catback. You guys have me thinking of trying a boost controller and/or an ECU (complete or piggyback). This could cause me to go crazy and spend alot of money but I'm trying resist. Alex at Gotham says get the PLX-250 Windband Combo for $339.00 to keep an eye on the A/F and I should be fine. What do you guys think. I'll try to get some pics soon. Thanks for all the specific info. I'm getting that all of the cars are different, some things work and some don't. I don't want spike or creep.Rick

 

Hi Rick. I also picked up an FD recently. (today actually :P) Before you go on spending money that you don't want to spend, if you haven't already, pick up a water temp gauge and a boost gauge. The boost gauge will let you know if you NEED an ecu and/or boost controller. From there you will have a better opinion of what your next step NEED's to be. Again, I use the term need fairly loosely here, because, of course, you're going to eventually want some more unNEEDed mods . Alright, I guess I don't need to cap the need word anymore, but I think you get where I am going here.

Resist the urge to spend your money now. You may NEED it later down the road :P

 

Rick, just install a boost gauge along with your downpipe and catback. If you maintain 10-11 psi, you are completely safe. If you spike above this or have consistently elevated boost above 10 psi, then you will need a boost controller. This could be a manual one (<$20) or an electronic one like the Greddy Profec Type-S ($310). If you maintain boost at 10 psi, you do NOT need any aftermarket ecu or standalone computer.

My guess is that you'll be perfectly fine with the downpipe and cat-back, even without a boost controller.

 

Red95FD,
I have those exact same mods, just a different cat-back. In my particular case (every car is slightly different) I can get a 1 to 2 psi spike only if it's cold outside (< 40 deg. F. ) and I go WOT. I may get a BC down the line, but for the most part I just avoid WOT under those conditions. This is made easier since I store it during the winter. Otherwise, the stock ECU keeps it right at 10-8-10. IMHO, save your money on the wideband stuff. Just my .02.

 

Thanks guys. Perfect!

 

With those mods, you could be boosting as high as 12 psi. Of course, you won't know it without a boost gauge. Get the gauge first.

 

Here's what I did. I bought a used M2 Stage 3 ECU($450) and ran it at 12-13 psi w/ a CAI, HF-cat, Cat-back & DP.

After I got a rebuilt & ported motor, I then sprung for the Power FC and ran 14-15 psi w/ a CAI, mid-pipe, Cat-back & DP. I also bought a Wideband O2 & A Datalogit. I was also able to resell the M2 ECU for $400.

 

Hey Rick, I live 144 miles East of you in Ironton. I've been at it for almost 10 years now and have a VR and a MBM 93's. Maybe this summer if you are cruising seriously out and about, stop by. I have some spare parts too and do ALL my mork myself.

Tom

 

When you open up the intake and exhaust of the engine, you are increasing the FLOW at 10psi which will cause you to lean out alittle. The factory ECU is a bit rich so you can get away with a DP, CB and intake normally. However you are starting to push the envelope and you should not do any more mods without an adjustable ECU to adjust your fuel maps/ ie getting it professionally tuned. good luck with your mods, but keep in mind that with a low milage car like you have, it's worth more money the more stock you can keep it.