For those of you who converted to LED headlight bulbs, what did you do about the stock dust boot? I don't think I will be able to get the boot to stretch over the LED mechanism/fan.

And yes, I read all of the input on converting. I do not have the extra cash to convert to HID at this point. I will say, they are much brighter than that incandescent bulbs.

 

I just put in a pair of GTR Ultra 2's in. I just made a little slite where the bulb goes through the boot. Just enough to allow the bulb to pass but seals tight. Worked great.

 

I put a pair of Morimoto 2Stroke 3.0 LEDs in. I had to make a slit to get the boot around the base. One of the little slits turned into a bigger one during the process so be careful. The lights work great though.

 

Greetings from The Future.

I just installed some Fahren H4 LEDs last night. The bulb unlocked from the the 3 tabbed mounting plate. After mounting the plate under the spring, I replaced the boot, then pushed the bulb through the boot/plate and locked it down. I used these LEDs.
Anyone have any solid tips for alignment? Certainly a vast improvement over the halogens, but still need to improve the pattern. The halogen pattern was a mess before, probably previous owner abuse, but we don't get out much after dark anyway.

The incoming cooling vents are pretty close to the boots, though, so I may need to trim the collar on the inside of the boot to try and slide it further forward. I bought these on my experience putting H11's from this manufacturer in my Subaru with projectors. That was a snap; 5 minutes and no flicker. ​​​​​​​

 

Google around, there are tons of how-to web pages and Youtube videos. It's not hard and correctly aiming headlights makes a big difference. Heck, most stock FD's I've worked on have had their headlights pointing every damn where, that's half of why they usually suck so bad.

Our headlights are nothing special when it comes to alignment, there's a left-right and and up-down alignment screw. It's usually best to leave the black plastic trim off the headlight as it makes them easier to find and adjust.

Hard thing is finding a good flat wall with flat ground in front that's relatively dark. I have a spot near my house that I found that works great, just have to search around. Industrial or commercial parks are a good place to try, typically lots of asphalt and relatively flat.

Dale

 

^THIS! When I did my DIY HID conversion on my FC, I ended up using the lot behind the auto/tire service area of my local Walmart. The tire/auto center closes before the store, and the lot by those garage doors is basically unused and there's no traffic there. It's a bit bright with the lighting, but dark enough for me to park ~25 feet in front of their garage doors and use them to do my aiming. I bring a tape measure to position the car in the right place, and some painter's tape to mark my aim points on the garage door. Do the aiming, remove the tape from the door and get out of dodge before the Walmart rent-a-cops get pissed,

 

Yeah, I've seen a lot of them, but the RX's pattern isn't much, If they had a reflector pattern like I've seen (like a sideways 'Y' with the opening pointing toward the shoulder) it would be cake. But there's no real cutoff. The projectors on my Subie were a snap; 10' away, cutoff same height as lens center.

 

The beam pattern on the stock housings does suck but it can be adjusted and aimed, it just takes a bit more work.

I've adjusted a few stock FD headlights (like bone stock with halogen bulbs) and made a world of difference.

Dale

 

I'll see if I can up a pic after dark. I can't even seem to find a hotspot.

Here's $30 LEDs in my Subie's projectors (gotta love the halogens in the DRL/high combo...). RX pics to come later.