Fritz Flynn

iTrader: (263)

I have the exact same setup and run the exact same temps ACCEPT when it's HOT like 95 to 100 degrees outside but I'm also in a humid climate so that hurts temps as well. Now on a hot day if I drive hard which can't be done unless you're deep in the country I'll see over 100c and at the track I'd get 2 laps and start seeing around 110c and then need a lap of short shifting and go two hard again etc....

Anything over 85 degrees and I really can't track a mostly stock FD without some SERIOUS cooling mods especially on the intake side. Because once intake temps go to 60c you're in danger at 70c you'll blow your motor.

So what am I saying here is a mostly stock FD that doesn't get hotter EVER than 87c is a freak. Do you smell wtf I be stepping in on this heaunh subject

My track car doesn't see over 85c on the water no matter how hot it is but the oil can go to 210, big coolers and no ducts with a GTC front bumper and a oil only cooled t04e will cause high oil temps. If the oil was going over 240 I'd address this but I run synthetic and the turbo has held up very well so clearly this isn't causing any harm.

no_more_rice

This is with a Koyo?

Amen

Or the whole story is not being revelaed, he probably cruises with very occasional boosting. I guarantee you he's not climbing hills in 93 F ambient temps with 90% humidity (where I saw 98 C) or doing track days.

N flow?

no_more_rice

I hear ya - it's called the second law of thermodynamics (entropy/time's arrow), and it's why progressive evolution/darwinism is one of the greatest hoaxes ever told

For something as critical as a radiator, why would you roll the dice with plastic end tanks when it's been proven the ASTs - constructed of similar material - fail left and right on these cars?

wstrohm

In my case, it's because the OEM radiator lasted 16 years/99,300 miles before developing a slight leak. When one of you guys comes up with an aftermarket part that beats that, I will consider it. Also, the OEM AST lasted 15.8 years/98,500 miles before breaking one nipple. Again, what history shows an aftermarket part lasting longer? I consider anything that lasts around 100K miles and/or a 15-16 year period as an acceptable part.

Our '94 now has over 102K miles on the factory engine. If the coolant seals fail at say, 125-126K miles (as mentioned elsewhere), I also consider that an acceptable lifespan.

adamrs80

iTrader: (7)

What fits better than a Koyo? Is the fluidyne a better fit?