Koyo Installation Tips
#27
Newbie
hey, thank you for the reply and pictures! Most likely if I’m unable to get my hands on some OEM ones then what you did is the plan B.
appreciate you
appreciate you
#28
Juris Doctor
iTrader: (3)
I’m having a tough time installing mine..
it sits almost cockeyed and I can’t get it down on the brackets. The RH side fits into the bottom bracket hole but the LH side does not and the radiator makes contact with my oil cooler lines. My back hurts bending over pulling this in and out over and over but I can’t get it to fit.
any ideas???
it sits almost cockeyed and I can’t get it down on the brackets. The RH side fits into the bottom bracket hole but the LH side does not and the radiator makes contact with my oil cooler lines. My back hurts bending over pulling this in and out over and over but I can’t get it to fit.
any ideas???
#29
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
I just finished installing a Koyo a few weeks ago. It went fairly smoothly (thanks to the great info on this thread) but one thing I didn't expect was how far I had to bend the lower mounting brackets down for the radiator to drop all the way down. Maybe something to check?
#30
Juris Doctor
iTrader: (3)
I just finished installing a Koyo a few weeks ago. It went fairly smoothly (thanks to the great info on this thread) but one thing I didn't expect was how far I had to bend the lower mounting brackets down for the radiator to drop all the way down. Maybe something to check?
#33
Rotorhead for life
iTrader: (4)
Mine dropped right in, even with my quicky fabricated AL bracket ears, and I have the same top bleeder plug on my Koyo that yours has.
#34
Juris Doctor
iTrader: (3)
If it's not fitting right, then either the brackets on the stabilizer bar mount that the radiator "pegs" on the bottom sit in with the rubber bushings are bent/misaligned relative to one another, or the 2 studs/rubber vibe isolator mounts are somehow misaligned - maybe one of those isn't screwed in all the way, so it prevents the other side from seating?
Mine dropped right in, even with my quicky fabricated AL bracket ears, and I have the same top bleeder plug on my Koyo that yours has.
Mine dropped right in, even with my quicky fabricated AL bracket ears, and I have the same top bleeder plug on my Koyo that yours has.
#36
Juris Doctor
iTrader: (3)
I absolutely hate being stuck. I’ve bent the bottom brackets and still no luck. I’ve read countless threads on this install and it’s either 1) was no problem at all! Or 2) painful and how did they ever get it in?!
Im stuck in 2.... seems no matter what I do, nothing lines up. The stock radiator had no issues fitting.
Im stuck in 2.... seems no matter what I do, nothing lines up. The stock radiator had no issues fitting.
#37
Full Member
iTrader: (10)
Double check your stabilizer bar brackets and make sure one isn't bent. When I bought the car it had a Fluidyne previously and it sat okay. When I went to replace it with the Koyo it would not seat correctly at all. Found out my passenger side bracket was bent and after getting new ones the install went a lot smoother.
#38
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
There may be some differences with your car being JDM. Also having the second oil cooler doesn't help, those hard lines get in the way big time.
You have an interference problem, something is keeping the radiator from going where it should. You have to step through and find where that spot is. I would also see if the stock radiator drops in still and compare how it fits to how the Koyo fits.
My guess is it may be the AC condenser it's fouling on. You may need to unbolt the condenser from the frame and let it hang down while you're working.
This is a job that needs access top and bottom and a good STRONG flashlight/shop light. Keep looking to find where it's fouling. You may have to do some trimming or move some things. TAKE YOUR TIME. Getting frustrated just leads to more problems if you start bashing on things or rushing it.
Is your radiator a regular one or the N-Flow? I'm still curious about that air bleed screw. Friend here in Pensacola got a new Koyo that was a regular one with no bleed screw.
Also post up some more pictures of the fit process. Top and bottom. We can figure this out.
Dale
You have an interference problem, something is keeping the radiator from going where it should. You have to step through and find where that spot is. I would also see if the stock radiator drops in still and compare how it fits to how the Koyo fits.
My guess is it may be the AC condenser it's fouling on. You may need to unbolt the condenser from the frame and let it hang down while you're working.
This is a job that needs access top and bottom and a good STRONG flashlight/shop light. Keep looking to find where it's fouling. You may have to do some trimming or move some things. TAKE YOUR TIME. Getting frustrated just leads to more problems if you start bashing on things or rushing it.
Is your radiator a regular one or the N-Flow? I'm still curious about that air bleed screw. Friend here in Pensacola got a new Koyo that was a regular one with no bleed screw.
Also post up some more pictures of the fit process. Top and bottom. We can figure this out.
Dale
#39
Juris Doctor
iTrader: (3)
There may be some differences with your car being JDM. Also having the second oil cooler doesn't help, those hard lines get in the way big time.
You have an interference problem, something is keeping the radiator from going where it should. You have to step through and find where that spot is. I would also see if the stock radiator drops in still and compare how it fits to how the Koyo fits.
My guess is it may be the AC condenser it's fouling on. You may need to unbolt the condenser from the frame and let it hang down while you're working.
This is a job that needs access top and bottom and a good STRONG flashlight/shop light. Keep looking to find where it's fouling. You may have to do some trimming or move some things. TAKE YOUR TIME. Getting frustrated just leads to more problems if you start bashing on things or rushing it.
Is your radiator a regular one or the N-Flow? I'm still curious about that air bleed screw. Friend here in Pensacola got a new Koyo that was a regular one with no bleed screw.
Also post up some more pictures of the fit process. Top and bottom. We can figure this out.
Dale
You have an interference problem, something is keeping the radiator from going where it should. You have to step through and find where that spot is. I would also see if the stock radiator drops in still and compare how it fits to how the Koyo fits.
My guess is it may be the AC condenser it's fouling on. You may need to unbolt the condenser from the frame and let it hang down while you're working.
This is a job that needs access top and bottom and a good STRONG flashlight/shop light. Keep looking to find where it's fouling. You may have to do some trimming or move some things. TAKE YOUR TIME. Getting frustrated just leads to more problems if you start bashing on things or rushing it.
Is your radiator a regular one or the N-Flow? I'm still curious about that air bleed screw. Friend here in Pensacola got a new Koyo that was a regular one with no bleed screw.
Also post up some more pictures of the fit process. Top and bottom. We can figure this out.
Dale
Mine is the N-Flo version. I've also posted this in our Emerald Coast Facebook Group. I'm wondering if I just need to get new brackets for the bottom because they may be bent. I can't see that they are bent, but I'm running out of ideas unless someone from P-Cola area wants to come help hahaha. Banzai and others have suggested this may be the case as everything else is saying it should fit while doing the steps outlined in this thread. I've even looked at the Australian forums and they report doing as Banzai has in the install. So, running out of ideas except the replacing of the bottom brackets.
#40
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
Those brackets are actually the sway bar mounts. It is common for them to be bent. They are available new from Mazda, they aren't too pricey if memory serves. Hit up Ray Crowe on those.
May want to post pictures of those brackets.
Yeah, I've been posting some on the EC Rotary thread too
Dale
May want to post pictures of those brackets.
Yeah, I've been posting some on the EC Rotary thread too
Dale
#41
Rotorhead for life
iTrader: (4)
There may be some differences with your car being JDM. Also having the second oil cooler doesn't help, those hard lines get in the way big time.
You have an interference problem, something is keeping the radiator from going where it should. You have to step through and find where that spot is. I would also see if the stock radiator drops in still and compare how it fits to how the Koyo fits.
My guess is it may be the AC condenser it's fouling on. You may need to unbolt the condenser from the frame and let it hang down while you're working.
This is a job that needs access top and bottom and a good STRONG flashlight/shop light. Keep looking to find where it's fouling. You may have to do some trimming or move some things. TAKE YOUR TIME. Getting frustrated just leads to more problems if you start bashing on things or rushing it.
Is your radiator a regular one or the N-Flow? I'm still curious about that air bleed screw. Friend here in Pensacola got a new Koyo that was a regular one with no bleed screw.
Also post up some more pictures of the fit process. Top and bottom. We can figure this out.
Dale
You have an interference problem, something is keeping the radiator from going where it should. You have to step through and find where that spot is. I would also see if the stock radiator drops in still and compare how it fits to how the Koyo fits.
My guess is it may be the AC condenser it's fouling on. You may need to unbolt the condenser from the frame and let it hang down while you're working.
This is a job that needs access top and bottom and a good STRONG flashlight/shop light. Keep looking to find where it's fouling. You may have to do some trimming or move some things. TAKE YOUR TIME. Getting frustrated just leads to more problems if you start bashing on things or rushing it.
Is your radiator a regular one or the N-Flow? I'm still curious about that air bleed screw. Friend here in Pensacola got a new Koyo that was a regular one with no bleed screw.
Also post up some more pictures of the fit process. Top and bottom. We can figure this out.
Dale
A good flashlight, lots of patience and beer breaks is good advice here; post up some pictures of those strut bar/radiator brackets so we can figure out if they are indeed bent out of whack.
#45
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
Keep us posted once they come in! Hope this will close out your problem.
Dale
Dale
#47
Juris Doctor
iTrader: (3)
Chris,
Thanks
for the help in the thread about the brackets... it looked like mine had some slight bends and once I removed them and installed it with new brackets it went in immediately.
The N-flo and condenser are also very close! I did do the bracket flip too.
Only weird issue I found was that silicone mishimoto hoses for the bottom aren’t an exact fit...? They are a little bit longer than the factory ones and I had to really make sure not to kink it.
Car now has new coolant in it and the burping process begins...
Thanks
for the help in the thread about the brackets... it looked like mine had some slight bends and once I removed them and installed it with new brackets it went in immediately.
The N-flo and condenser are also very close! I did do the bracket flip too.
Only weird issue I found was that silicone mishimoto hoses for the bottom aren’t an exact fit...? They are a little bit longer than the factory ones and I had to really make sure not to kink it.
Car now has new coolant in it and the burping process begins...
#48
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
If the hose is a little long you may just need to trim it. Use a long razor knife and put a hose clamp around the end you want to cut, saw along the hose clamp using it as a guide. You'll get a clean straight cut.
Glad you got it in! It doesn't take much for those brackets to be wonky.
Dale
Glad you got it in! It doesn't take much for those brackets to be wonky.
Dale
#50
Full Member
Rad side foam?
One thing that i dont think you mentioned, is that the OEM radiator has foam on the sides, to stop air flowing around the radiator. I bought some soft but dense foam to make sure as much air as possible go where it should.
This is if you dont have any intake mods who pull air from this location.
Attachment 607221
Attachment 607222
This is if you dont have any intake mods who pull air from this location.
Attachment 607221
Attachment 607222