orangeglowFD

iTrader: (3)

i am brand new to the internals of the motor so please help see where i went wrong or what i need to do. I rebuilt the motor just droped it in. when i start it up the exhaust note sounds good but it sounds like the motor is knocking like crazy although there is very little vibration to the entire motor. Is this a timing problem or did i rebuild it wrong?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Start off with the easy stuff:

1. What mods are on your car?
2. If you are using the stock ECU, did you check to see if you have any stored codes?
3. Have you done a compression test to check the new rebuild?

orangeglowFD

iTrader: (3)

i have a pfc tuned by chris sanders last year when i got my reman... mods are basicaly 3in exhaust and peter farrell ic. I do not have the comander with pfc and doing the compression today.. it sounds like its comming from rear housing

orangeglowFD

iTrader: (3)

compression is 110+ on front rotor and 86-89 on rear which is not good....

orangeglowFD

iTrader: (3)

nevermind its about 80 in the rear..*sigh*..

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

knocking is the result of a bearing failure/spun, allowing freeplay between the rotor and shaft, letting the tips of the rotor contact the housings and irons. Go on ahead and tear it back down.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

not necessarily, it could also be loose flywheel bolts if you have a lightweight flywheel.

Brent 94

iTrader: (1)

why do you automatically think it's knocking? Could it just be misfiring? or do you actually hear a loud tap sound from the engine?

orangeglowFD

iTrader: (3)

yeah they're taps clack, clack, clack......consistant....O well at least i tried it..ill just send it in to get it rebuilt

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

if it did spin a bearing you may be better off just getting a good used motor, lubrication issues in these engines result in a very costly rebuild.

mono4lamar

iTrader: (32)

he probably means send it in to mazda for a core... well if hes smart i mean lol

orangeglowFD

iTrader: (3)

what do you mean by this?

mdpalmer

iTrader: (24)

He means your motor is probably FUBARd, and a rebuild will mean a lot of new (or used) parts that you'll have to get from somewhere. If it is a bad bearing, your e-shaft is definitely f*cked. Ask me how I know The point is to use your shitty core and get reman from Ray Crowe @ Malloy Mazda 1-888-534-3400. Going price is $2600 + core ($1000) right now I believe. Probably cheaper than putting yours back together. Only caveat is that you can't take the engine apart to use as a core. Good luck.

EDIT: BTW, damn, 110 psi compression on the front rotor? That's pretty good from what I understand... so sorry to hear of your loss on the rear...

orangeglowFD

iTrader: (3)

but it is a reman from a year ago with maybe 3k after the initial 2500 mile break in...thats y i tried to rebuild it myself

orangeglowFD

iTrader: (3)

So i was tearing it back down and i found that the slave cylinder head was in the bell housing!!! ive read in many places that it takes some time to gain full compression???

mdpalmer

iTrader: (24)

Whoops, for the record, Ray's # is 1888-533-3400. If you go to Kevin Lander's website, he says that motors with used housings tend to have less compression during the break-in period than do motors with new ones. http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/

DaveW

Yes - How long depends on how the surfaces mate initially after the rebuild. The better they fit, and the smoother the finish (the less imperfections from previous wear, etc.), the shorter the time.

orangeglowFD

iTrader: (3)

i have the front rotor pointing down and the rear rotor pointing to the side...i believe this is correct but thats the only part i see that i could have done wrong

BlueTII

The compression on the rear will not raise to meet the front. Even on a fresh rebuild they should be close to the same from front to rear, then during the break in they will both raise evenly.