And damn that was some crazy ****. 2nd gear would not grab at all (265/40/17 Goodyear Supercar F1s)

Other power mods:

cb
dp
K&N drop in (unmodified air box)


The installation can't be any easier, except for my damn big upper body/shoulder, could barely squeeze into the passenger side foot well to hook up the connectors. Re connected the battery and let her warm up for a few min. Then drove for about 5 min and then went from an idle. 1st gear 100% throttle, shift, 2nd gear immediately would not grab even when I had it at like 90%-95% throttle. After that I neutral-ed her down the hill and shut off.

I think the rears may not have grabbed because:

1. It's like 45 degrees out there right now
2. Tires aren't wamed up yet.


But so far in the few min that I've had with the ECU it's a wonderful unit. EBC is a definite next to come.


-Dan

BTW, adam I'm coming for your air box so get a set ready!!

 

Nice! Carefull with the cold air + heavy foot. this can equal overboosting.(cold air being dense and so on)BTW: I feel your pain with the tight spots and big shoulders. 6'2 200# here Forgot to ask what boost level is it set for?

 

It's the Stage 3 ECU, so it's SUPPOSEDLY set for 12psi, but who knows with the cold weather these days, I'll have to be careful and watch my boost, aside from that I can't wait to get on it again.

-Dan

 

why did you not go for a powerfc? even a stock ecu+super afc has more adjustability. idk i guess im in the camp where every car/turbo/engine/exhaust/intake is different and think the ecu should be tuned to what your running. the 1 size fits all thing doesn't cut it, especially when your risking a 3-5k engine or possibly more...

if i were you id get on a wideband asap, just because your car pulls harder, does not mean that its running better, it could just be leaning out...

as far as traction, tire compound has a lot to do with it, i know my old nitto 450 were freakishly scary/slippery, even 4th gear pulls would sometimes break them loose... (and i was not making much power back then)

P.S. what are you using to control boost?

 

congrats on getting the computer and on the install!

 

the Pettit ECU supposedly allows you run both a MP and ported engine (I have both)

all I can say is, I've had the Pettit for three years now and it kicks ***, I need to put the car on the dyno...in this cold weather the acceleration is furious

 

The M2/Pettit ecus have been proven to run safely by hundreds of owners. I would be willing to bet far more people have blown motors with a PFC than with an M2 chip.....

Also, I have seen the wideband results for M2's chip on a couple of different cars. They were all at 11:1 or less above transition with the supported mods.

The M2 ecu controls boost to 12 psi, but obviously a boost controller would be preferable.

 

I have been very happy with my M2 ECU. No problems so far, even when I accidentally boosted to 15 1/2 psi.

Let me know when you are ready for the Cheap Bastard Intake kit. I will have one ready to go for you.

Adam

 

Thanks for the comments. I don't have to worry TOO much about running lean right now since I still have stock air intake system, and also because my car ran very rich before adding the K&N filter. Like I said I am in the market for an EBC. But until then I'll keep off major throttle.

And I got the M2 over the PFC because it was the deal of a lifetime. Even if I got the HKS EVC V ($500+) I would still have spent less than half the cost of a PFC, so yeah I had to jump at the chance.

Hey rynberg, think I can beat you on the dyno?

-Dan

 

I love my stage III ECU. Set up was damn easy. I get a solid 12 PSI without all the tuning set up. It is a solid upgrade if you are not looking to go single. I purchased some Home Depot needle valves for boost control but never installed them. I did not need it. The ECU controlled everything perfectly.

I will have to swap out to stock ECU for emmissions testing. I noticed that it failed when I put it in. Most likely because of the richer fuel maps.

 

I blew a motor on the m2 stage III.

 

Just how neccesary is the electronic boost control with the M2 ECU? I see people say it is preferable, but then some like mecman don't have a problem with just the ecu...

And as for slapping in the stock ECU sans EBC back in for emissions, won't that leave you vulnerable to a stupid tech flooring it and overboosting?

 

I would leave the boost controller in for smog testing. Set it for 7 or 8 psi to make sure some doofus doesn't break anything during the test.

 

Get a relief valve, and set it for .07 bars, I think that's somewhere near 1-2 Psi.... that way you'll never have to worry about the tech or porting the wastegate... or boost spiking, cause you can adjust what you concider max boost....

 

I had an M2 ECU before and loved it! I had all the bolt-ons and needed to get a home depot needle valve to control boost(13-14psi). I ended up selling it for $400-450 and bought a Power FC when I needed to run 1300cc injectors for a ported motor. The M2 is a good ECU, a real no brainer!

 

What were your modifications and mileage?

 

m2 ecu is great! my motor has 106k and is suffering from major oil leaks. for the past 8k i have been driving the **** out of my motor to get it to blow. so far no luck. m2 ecu sucks! hahahaha