maybe_yes

My old motor grenaded so i picked up this 95 jdm motor from a place. The jdm motor does not have a coolant level sensor bung and sensor. It seems like the casting is there but no provision for it. I guess they must not be used on the jdm engines.
I have the motor in now and it cranks over but will not start. No check engine lights, i had knock sensor code but i fixed and cleared that. When i turn the key over, it almost seems like it is not firing at the right time. I have cheked for spark and the fuel and i have both. Can somebody tell me if the housing towards the front of the car is 1 or 2? i have wired the plugs assuming it is 1.
Anything else i can check for?

mad_7tist

t1 is the front trailing t2 is the rear. the leading wires dont matter as they fire together. you can just ground the wire for the sensor to turn off the beeping but you loose a valuable warning system.

tt2323

are you certain your 3 fuel lines are hooked up correctly?

skunks

are you sure your getting good compression? perhaps you should pour in a bit of atf fluid just to help build a bit of compression. are you sure your getting spark on all 4 plugs? how did you test this? what is your fuel pressure? what is your injector duty cycle at start up?

in anycase, i think you did wire up your spark wires correctly but might have put the traillings on the leadings and the other way around perhaps. have you tried going WOT and then cranking her up a few times? did you try using starter fluid?

maybe_yes

seems like there is only 2 fuel lines and one is a soft hose, i am pretty sure i have them hooked up right but i will check again. either way after i am done cranking, the plugs have fuel on them.
i put the spark plugs on the intake manifold, connected the plug wires and cranked it and i get good spark.
fuel pressure and duty cycle should be stock. nothing changed there.
i have not tried atf yet and i am going to try and do a compression test.
t2 from coil goes to rightmost top plug, t1 goes to left most top plug.
Also the battery has good charge and the engine is turning over at a decent rate.

any ideas /suggestions? thanks

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

There are 3 fuel lines (1 feed, 1 return & 1 something). Try downloading a manual from www.iluvmyrx7.com

If you plugs are wet, most likely there is a fuel leak. First remove plugs and fuel pump relay and crank without them a few times. Clean plugs with carb clean but make sure they are dry. If you don't have an air compressor use a bottle of compressed air from computer store. Make sure the coil plugs are correct (white-l, black-m, blue-r). The middle coil is for leading. Rotor 1 and coil 1 are towards the bumper. Make shure the thermosensor is pluged in.

Did you have the injectors cleaned? The could have stuck open when they dried out.

maybe_yes

just did a compression test with a conventional tester

rear rotor seems to be around 45 psi or less on all faces
front rotor is around 75 psi or less on all faces.

i never disconnected the 3 individual plugs to the coils just took it apart at the one connector where all 3 meet. i will try some starting fluid and give it another go, but seems like those compression numbers are kind of low. offcourse i cannot heat the motor up to operating temperatures to really find out.

maybe_yes

could i have flipped the crank angle sensors?

also my fuse/relay box does not have the sticker, which fuse/relay disables fuel pump relay?

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

The end one closest to the passenger head light (fuel pump relay).

Flipped crank angle sensor? Both sensors are interchangeable.

maybe_yes

i mean flipped the connectors

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

Well if the sensors themselves are interchangeable then I don't I don't see the plugs being any different. Flooding will keep you from starting and wet plugs means flooding. Check connections to the coil packs (left =white, middle=black, right=blue) from the wire harness.

You're looking for a spark issue when your plugs are wet. You should be looking for a fuel issue. Did you unflood it and try again? If so, did it flood again? ...why is it flooding.

maybe_yes

I checked the coils and they are all plugged in right. i checked the connectors for the crank angle sensor and the white one is at the top and the grey one is at the bottom. I tried putting starter fluid in but that did not work.

Could i have wired the injectors under the rats nest in reverse? anyway to find out?

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

You didn't. It's next to impossible to do that. Hate to say it, but I think that the JDM motor you bought is crap. Those compression #s belong to a blown motor. Most of those JDM motors come with Startup Warranties, my recommendation is that you call up the company you bought it from and exercise the warranty.

maybe_yes

Yeah i am leaning towards the fact that the motor is toast. but at the same time the motor is not warmed up so the compression numbers could mean nothing.

The two primary injectors are pretty close together on the housing i was just wondering if i had swapped the connectors by mistake, do you guys think that could be an issue?
When i take the spark plugs out and turn the motor over to de-flood it, it sounds like it makes a nice whoosh sound on a pretty consistent basis.
I was talking to mazda dealership and they have told me to de-flood the car and tow start the car, this way it will not flood the car out and let the compression help the car start up. I don't know does this sound like a good idea?

maybe_yes

i don't know if this makes a difference but my fans come on when i turn the ignition to on position and i don't recall for sure if it did that with the old motor.

Zyon13B

The fans probably come on because its not sensing the coolant level b/c there is no bung, like you said. They come an at start on a hot motor, the ECU thinks its over heating, so the fans come on. I have no idea if this effects your problem.

J.S.J

The engine could be flooded and the crank sensor / connectors are the same, however the reference points each sensor collects are different as well as the path the wiring takes is different. If you switched the connectors (installed them incorrectly) that will make a big difference.

Zyon13B

yea, but he has them correct, white on top, grey on bottom.

J.S.J

The ECU will turn on the fans by default if there is a major sensor out of calibration IE the coolant sensor tied to the fuel injection. The level sensor is not in that category, that would be I/P cluster related feed back you would see. I would dry out the rotors of gas and install a fresh set of plugs. There is one tool which is real cheep and it will test the ignition output dynamically. Spark testers are not all the same. You might need 25KV to fire a plug but 3kv will light up some testers. The type I use is called an "ST125" you can get them for under 10 dollars. When connected to the end of a plug wire it takes at least 25,000 volts for the spark to jump the gap. Seeing this theres no more guessing if you have the right amount of spark.

TechTrix

iTrader: (2)

you have low compression, thats why the motor wont start. pill the leading plugs out and stick a hose in the hole with a small funnel in the other end and pour in a mix of wd-40 and gear oil, about an ounce in each rotor, then put the plugs back in, disconnect the fuel pump fuse and crank it over a few times, let is sit for a while. then pill the leading plugs back out, brake clean them, dry them off and if you have a torch, heat up the tips, then while there hot put them back in, hook up the wires and the fuse, and start the engine. sometimes rotarys can loose compression when they sit for a long time, the apex seals get stuck from fuel goo and it needs to be heated up to get em loose. the only other thing that i know works is to have someone push your car with another car while you turn the ignition(no starter) an put in in second gear and do 30 mph down the street. thats worked numerous times in different cars for me

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

I doubt it's your problem, but in case you feel like checking, the primary injs have a green with red tracer wire, and the sec injs have a green with white tracer wire. Gotta love non-sequential twins.....I was able to pop my hood and get that info without picking up one tool

maybe_yes

hey,
I just thought about something, how does tach read the rpms? i see people saying when they do a compression test, they are cranking at 250 rpm.
When i crank my motor over, i get no reading on the tach. now what i am thinking is if the rpm is actually picked up by the crank angle sensor, and the crank angle sensor determines the order of fire for the plugs, could my crank angle sensors be messed up? I know they are plugged in right, white on top, grey at the bottom. Anyway to determine if the pickup is right or the crank angle sensors are working?
i have checked for spark on every plug wire and i have spark but it might not be firing at the right time.

Also do you put atf in leading or trailing plug hole? how much?