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Just making sure, it's blown aint it

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Old 03-21-06, 06:39 PM
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Just making sure, it's blown aint it

idles at 900
vacuum around 9, sometimes bouncing around
white smoke from exhaust
no power what so ever, SO weak
weird sounding motor, sounds very choppy
at idle, car shakes like all mad
no noticeable boost leaks
map line perfect
8 psi on a safe tune and a 7k mile motor, something is not right

Have not done a compression test yet, but it seems like this is every symptom of a blown motor. Let me know please, thanks

-Mike
Old 03-21-06, 06:54 PM
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sounds more like a loose major hose or split coupling to me... excluding white smoke from exhaust.

check every clip/hose/coupling from turbo to UIM - after that check your gaskets.
don't give up hope my friend, you may still be ok.
Old 03-21-06, 07:25 PM
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Or you could just do a compression check...Which would be faster than checking every vacuum line...

But...Then again..Are you sure you arent just in limp mode?
Old 03-21-06, 07:39 PM
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Aside from checking the MAP line, the first step is a compression test.

You can get go/no-go compression results by altering a $25 auto parts store compression tester.

Dave
Old 03-21-06, 08:41 PM
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Let me tell you, you don't want to see compression readings like these. Read about my blown motor if you want to make yourself feel better.

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/bad-compression-%3D-rebuild-520796/

Get your comp test. Good luck.
Attached Thumbnails Just making sure, it's blown aint it-front_rotor.jpg   Just making sure, it's blown aint it-rear_rotor.jpg  
Old 03-21-06, 09:24 PM
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check your plugs and ignition system too...or it might be running on one rotor...
Old 03-21-06, 11:57 PM
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I will do the test in the spark plug holes to see if it has the same "compression" feeling on each side of the rotor. A true compression test will come later. Obviously if one side feels crappy then something is wrong. I will do a detailed overview of the motor as well checking everything obvious that i can see. I will also check to see if the spark plugs are firing and such. Blah this sucks, just got this car six days ago.

-Mike
Old 03-22-06, 12:01 AM
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Where are you located? What you describe definitely doesnt sound good. at that boost level something went way wrong, like a stuck injector or clogged fuel filter......
Old 03-22-06, 12:04 AM
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Hey, I think you know the guy who used to own this car! the white one that lanechange bought, that's mine now. The motor only has around~8k miles! Something fuel wise does sound messed up
Old 03-22-06, 12:10 AM
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mdpalmer, my car starts right up, never overheated, and i didn't try boosting at all, would take to long to get it that far lol
Old 03-22-06, 12:47 AM
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Originally Posted by MDoe8
mdpalmer, my car starts right up, never overheated, and i didn't try boosting at all, would take to long to get it that far lol
That's good to hear. From what I understand, (assuming your battery and starter are working properly) hard starting issues and low vacuum (which yours is... 9 inHg is terrible!) will very often point to crappy compression. There are a lot of people on this forum who know much more about rotary longevity/mechanics than I do. IMHO, there isn't really a reason for your motor to pop unless you cracked an apex seal (from detonation), or another seal (of which there are many) has suddenly unseated itself, etc. Good luck man. BTW, my name is Mike too
Old 03-22-06, 12:51 AM
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Originally Posted by MDoe8
Hey, I think you know the guy who used to own this car! the white one that lanechange bought, that's mine now. The motor only has around~8k miles! Something fuel wise does sound messed up
Yeah, that car belonged to Joe here in NJ.

When did the problems start happening? Had you just gotten gas?

Again, where are you located? anywhere near NJ? Sounds like you need someone to look at the car for you, troubleshooting over the internet might take awhile......
Old 03-22-06, 12:55 AM
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Haha yeah netshooting sucks but it's a start at least. The car had half a tank and was running absolutely perfect. boot never hit over .60 as shown on the powerfc. injector duty cycle was in the 60's.

mdpalmer, I mean mike , it's weird because it has NO starting issues WHAT SO EVER. It starts up the first time every time perfectly. So weird
Old 03-22-06, 01:14 AM
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What about the shakey needle/low vacuum reading at standard idle, but NO loss of power and NO smoke whatsoever? Oh, and starts up every time.

What could THAT be?

<)---happening to him.
Old 03-22-06, 01:19 AM
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I am dumb founded on this....that car drove damn near perfect the entire time I had it, plus the drive back from Jersey, plus his drive with it out to Colorado....and then pop. Just sucks to hear this. The thing that gets me is the smoke. Never once smoked, for me, or Mike that bought it....and now the motor all of a sudden, idles rough, blows smoke, vacuum is now low, loss of power, etc....all this happened during a WOT run at 8psi. That whole thing has me lost....especially the smoke.
Old 03-22-06, 07:56 AM
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Lightbulb

Originally Posted by YoshiFC3S
What about the shakey needle/low vacuum reading at standard idle, but NO loss of power and NO smoke whatsoever? Oh, and starts up every time.

What could THAT be?

<)---happening to him.
Check your ignition system thoroughly. It could be a loose spark plug or wire.
Old 03-22-06, 08:22 AM
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Could be alot of things, but that motor definately sounds f@$%ed. Who built the motor or did the last major service? Could be so many things... Start tearing the car down. Pull the injectors or take it apart enough to get access to the connectors. A simple test is to take 12v and touch a wire to each pin. If the injector clicks, its not stuck. A better way would be to send them out to be checked. While the injectors are out take a look at the atomizers. I have seen pieces of them break off and fall into the motor causing damage. Check the fuel filter. Pull it off and make sure it wasn't installed backwards. There is an arrow that indicates the way of flow. Most fuel filters have a diffuser inside so it does matter which way they are installed. You could also cut the filter in half and inspect how dirty the internals are. Check the plug wires, make sure they're not crossed. Who tuned the car? Might be worthwhile to have a reputable tuner check the map. Check the fuel pump. There is a spec in the mazda manual that says how much it is suppoed to flow when jumped to 12 volts. Check the wiring harness and crank angle sensors. Check the turbos. This is a rare occurance, but I have seen the compressor wheel nut or pieces of the wheel break off and fall into the motor. There are alot of other things, but this is just a start. I would not put another motor in the car untill you know what happened.
Old 03-22-06, 01:44 PM
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PFS did the rebuild roughly 8k miles ago. I will be doing the compression test today. Fuel filter probably would not do such a huge thing but i will try. Plug wires are not crossed as it ran perfectly for as long as the plugs were in there. LaneChange put a safe tune on it for me. Fuel pump is fine, and injector duty cycle was in the 60's%. I will check the turbo and sensors today. As well as checking every single possible hose/coupler/etc. Thank you for your input, much appreciated.

-Mike
Old 03-22-06, 03:13 PM
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visual inspection again:
no cracked piping/couplers/tubing what so ever
map sensor line is perfect, filter blows through perfect
turbo spins freely
coolant level solid
oil level solid

was gonna do compression test but no spark plug socket still
Old 03-26-06, 04:38 PM
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Did the go/go-go compression test. The results weren't too good. The back rotor seemed fine, felt a strong puff of air for every side of the rotor. The front rotor, I only felt ONE puff of air for every thrree "cranks" The other two sides had virtually no air come out at all. I'm assuming this means that a seal went bye bye. Am I correct?

-Mike
Old 03-26-06, 04:57 PM
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Keeping in mind this isn't a very accurate test, yes your conclusions are correct.

Dave
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