kevin, i pmed u and emailed thanks

 

Does this mean there may be some more ASP products down the road????

 

Yeah actually it does. There's a number of things I wanted to make 4 years ago that never got done that I'm thinking of now.

Kevin T. Wyum

 

Thats great news!!! I look to add to the ASP exhaust and IC the FD has.

 

what about the light kit?

 

This is great news Kevin. I was planning on purchasing the M2 medium this coming spring anyway and now I'll be even more excited knowing you've taken control again. Can't wait to see some of the other products you'll be working on in the future. Keep up the good work!

 

I wrote this a few months ago, it may help some people so here it is again.
Also I'd like to re ask if I can just buy the crossover pipe when you get stuff going? Mines toast.


Allright dang it. someone better sticky this,as it is a problem for all the M2 installs I have seen, even the ones installed at M2. Do this. The problem is that the crossover pipe:1 now goes to a slightly lower spot under the hood as before it went to the middle and highest point. 2 the pipe is not bent sharply enough. As the stock one has a 90 deg. sharp bend in it. The pipe now sits higher due to the coupler getting in the way of putting the pipe down low enough to get the position that the stock one is in. You need to carefully cut the coupler at a bias so the front (under the bend) is shorter than the rear. Do it slowly and cut a little off then more as needed so you don't cut too much and have no coupler. Basically if you look at the coupler head on it is flat across the top. You want to cut it so it slants down from one side. Only cut the side that couples to the crossover pipe. You then put the coupler onto the crossover pipe and see how much there is when it stops sliding up. If it looks like about the right amount so that the turbo outlet will contact the M2 crossover when you put it together (about 1and1/2 inch or so +/-) you're in good shape. Now hold the coupler on the M2 pipe so the bottom is flat and put the clamp on so it is just above the rib on the pipe. This may take a few tries as the coupler wants to slide off the pipe and get crooked. When you get it on there now put the pipe onto the turbo outlet. the pipe should now set lower and clear the brace.

Make sure that the fan wires are not under the intercooler duct too as this will cause it to set up a bit and short your wires to boot.
One more thing to check is a bolt on the frame brace that holds a clamp for a coolant line must be removed to get the intertcooler to set right.
The intercooler also can be moved in position slightly front to back and it will slightly change the height of the pipe. Just loosen the clamps and move it a bit. it will also help with the duct not lining up if you push the intercooler against it.
This now should cure one problem but the rubbing on the hood will still happen untill you take a mallet and some wood and LIGHTLY bang the pipe a bit flatter where it is rubbing on the hood. this is with the stock rad. and fans so some may not have the secondary problem.Also I have some rubber under the intercooler that sets it up just a bit which may be causing this.

 

I LIKE FMIC Better

 

and your radiator hates you for that

 

There are several FMICs out there and they are all a little different. Some put the radiator in a stupid position, some eliminate the bumper support, have cheesy battery mounting, etc. The worse part about them is the reduce airflow to an already choked up engine bay. This isn't good.

There is no perfect IC solution for a FD, but the SMIC has the fewest downfalls, one of the bigger downfalls is heatsoak. That can be easily solved with a fan that brings more air to the engine compartment rather than reduce it like the FMICs do.

The FMIC isn't the best IC solution for the FD.

Jeff

 

This is an absolutely perfect example of the kind of junk posting that is driving the knowledgeable and helpful people away.

Incorrect capitalization and punctuation right off the bat. There is no relevance to the topic of the thread. There is no reasons, research, personal experience, or even opinion to back the "statement." The vast differences in different front mount models is not addressed or how they contrast to a stock mount, and if it where it would still have no relevance to the topic of the thread.
It doesn't have a point.
It doesn't have relevance.
It doesn't have a reason.
It doesn't need to be here.

 

alright.

 

just one idea for eliminating the heat soak is an idea that i've seen some people do in the dsm world use. take a couple of windshield washer sprayer nozzles and set them up in such a way that you can spray water directly onto the i/c (when i was in the army i had some off a hum-v that sprayed in a fan pattern. got them from the hum-v junk yard. good luck finding some that will spray in this pattern). for the setup that i use to have, i just bought an extra reservoir tank, pump motor, switch, etc. if i was driving around a good bit and knew i was about to get into a race or something, i'd flip the switch to spray it down a bit before i actually had to race. if you're at the track, i'm just you'd have to spray it down before you pull up to the light though. just an idea (along with the fan) i thought i'd throw out there.

also, does anyone here run water injection? just wondering.
scott

 

I'm still curious about beads on the tubing from the recent IC's. Anyone picked one up recently that could comment on if all the tubes had formed beads on the ends so they can't slip out?

Kevin T. Wyum

 

My cross member for the hood also rubs on the inlet pipe tube, so. I cut the cross member out (about 6" or so) and there are no more problems. Its alot easier that removing the air pump or smashing the tubing. Get a cut off wheel on a die grinder and cut out all you need. It still looks neat and clean.

just another option for you all

oh ya I do have the lg i/c and relocated the battery

 

Actually..it does have a point. It just says that he likes FMIC better.

And if I was a knowledgeable ( ) person, it would just prove again to me how insanely ignorant some people can be.

Don't ya just hate it when little things like that bother you so much you have to post about it?

 

Mine has formed beads on all the connection points. As long as you put the clamp close against the bead there should be no problem. The one point where I have seen failure in the couplers is at the crossover/turbo connection the way the bend in the pipe is designed makes it very hard to get a constant toque clamp on there and have it properly aligned. Also this design causes the pipe to sit up higher and in some cases it rubs the strut bar. This is somewhat addressed in my previous post by cutting the coupler at a bias. However it would be much better is some kind of formed bend like the stock part could be fabricated.
One more thing I would have liked to see is some way to securely mount the intercooler to the air scoop and or the body of the car. If the scoop where somehow bolted to the intercooler it would seem that it would be easier to line up properly and keep the air from coming out around the seal. If the entire unit was somehow anchored to the body it would eliminate the shifting and banging that happens and may reduce the hood rubbing as well. The GReddy stock mount unit is a good example. It has a tab welded on the side to bolt it to the cross member it sits on and one for the AST. It also has threaded holes in the front to bolt it up the intake. Perhaps some kind of set up like the stock one where a brace attaches to the intercooler and air scoop then anchors to the car body.

 

kevin i pmed u again with numbers too

 

What happened to this thread? Anything new? Anyone

 

When's the excpected release date (in stock at the RX7 Store) for the new and improved medium and large ic's? Is the core going to be the same for the med and large? This may be off the subject, but if I (in the near future) decide on getting the '99 RZ twins or the M2 twin upgrade.. w/ a fluydine radiator, which ic would suit me better? thanks alot.

 

I have the medium IC's in stock and large should be here in a week or so.

Jason
www.rx7store.net

 

The new and improved ones? What's changed about them?

 

I've had my Medium for several years and haven't found an IC I like better yet. I had the "old style" straight pipe for a while, but I got one of the new curved ones from M2 to better clear the air pump. The straight pipe did actually fit with the air pump, but it was a tight fit and rubbed sometimes. The pipe from M2 fit fine with the air pump. It was a challenge to get the y-pipe connection secure, but it would eventually stay tight, even if it took a few tries. Once it was on right, it didn't come loose.

I never had pipe clearance problems with the hood, but it did hit my Cusco/GReddy/GREX strut tower bar sometimes. I added a little rubber hose under the bar with cable ties to keep it from denting the pipe. That doesn't bother me much considering it seems like any fix would reduce flow.

Even with the MazdaComp radiator, the hood prop rod still fits fine and neither the core nor the duct hits the hood. I expect that you might run into trouble with a thicker radiator. I have a Koyo radiator that I plan to install (to maximize coolant capacity) and I expect to have to play with the radiator mounts a bit to make it all fit well. The duct hits the buttons on the backs of the fan motors, so I would guess that I can cut away part of the duct and seal the holes to make additional clearance if I can't make it work by playing with the radiator mounts.

I have since switched to a single turbo, and cut my old straight pipe (see first paragraph) to connect it up. This arrangement hits the hood more than I would like, so I have some new stuff to re-do the pipe.

The core actually stays in place pretty well, despite my initial concerns and the concerns that seem to be common of people considering this IC. Still, I wanted to be sure that it didn't move, so I took the advice of Wade L. and made some little angle brackets from aluminum bar stock to keep the bottom of the core from creeping back. The hose connections are enough to keep the top of the IC from going anywhere. It seals up much better than most ICs with the duct's rubber seal. I have heard some concerns about the bottom of the IC wearing through on the support brace, but I've had mine for 40K miles and it looks like it will last for many more miles. It does have some wear, but they are just surface scratches rather than gouges.

I also added some aluminized fiberglass to cover the bottom of the IC core and end tanks to reduce heat soak while I am stationary. I need to do a little better job with the heat shielding to keep it in place (and out of the fans) but it seems to be fine so far. I don't know if or how much it helped with the heat soak -- I just did it because I had the IC out and thought it might help. I've got a Perma-Cool 10" High Performance fan (the highest flowing one I could find that fits) mounted on the back of the IC to keep air flowing to reduce heat soak as well. I don't have numbers for that, either, but it seems like it should help. It was definitely helpful during dyno testing, where it is hard to get good air flow through the IC.

I am curious whether an FMIC would be more efficient without critically reducing the effectiveness of my cooling system, but I haven't been brave enough to try yet. I think I have decided that I would rather have a bullet-proof cooling system than an FMIC, so I doubt I will try that.

The ASP ICs are still the best SMICs available, IMO. They work with stock turbos and single turbos. They offer excellent intake charge cooling, low pressure drop, fast spool-up from short piping (low volume), and don't compromise air flow to the radiator. This is one of the aftermarket parts I have been most pleased with on my car.

-Max

 

for $1500 I'd rather get the FMIC and upgrade the radiator for my weekend driver.

That's 2 things off my to-do list.

 

Hey Kevin, any suggestions on a battery relocation kit when using the large ASP intercooler? Jason(RX7Store) can't get them, and Pettit and M2 don't have them available anymore!(I called all these people to be sure). Or do you have any recomendations on this subject?, Any specific part #'s on a small sealed battery that you would recomend would work well and have good amperage to use for our cars with dual fuel pumps, ignition amplifiers, sound systems, etc.(in other words something that will work good on an FD with all this electrical stuff)?