I just finished doing the poor man's non-seq conversion according to don't be a rikki's website. I didn't take out the rat's nest or the solenoids. I only:

1. took out the TCA, wired the door open.
2. spliced the charge relief valve and the blow off and plugged them into the nipple on the UIM
3. Removed the two lines to the charge control valve and plugged them
4. Removed the two lines going to the wastegate solenoid and and plugged them, and switched the harnesses between the wastegate solenoid and the precontrol solenoid.
5. changed stock DP to ATR SS DP.
6. Wire for O2 sensor broke off, so right now the hole on the DP is plugged with the O2 sensor without the wire. But i still have the wire plugged in.

Even though the O2 sensor technically isn't plugged in, my check engine light doesn't come on. The only mods i have are PFC, HKS Cat back, and reliability mods (ast, radiator, etc)

So far i've reset the ECU and checked the hose for the MAP sensor...

I need some ideas. The car ran fine before the switch to non-seq except i was only getting 5psi from 4500 rpm to redline, which is why i decided to go non-seq.

perhaps TPS needs to be adjusted? please help me out. The video i took was with my digicam, and it's 10mbs, so bear with me here. The file is "Jumpy Idle.mov" Just right click and "save target as" before trying to view it. It's quicktime btw.

andy

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/nismo-turbo/

 

I think your 02 reads mega lean when disconnected.

 

so does that mean that as soon as i replace the O2 sensor, my idle should go back to normal?

 

i noticed in your movie that the car was warm. how does it idle when it's cold?

I just recently hooked my O2 sensor back up. i ran without for a long time. while i wouldn't say my car would have won any awards for idle quality, it wasn't anything near that bad.

 

When the car was cold, the idle was higher, but definitely not as bouncy. i don't think it bounced really at all, maybe slightly. But on a cold start, it was smoking a lot...much more than normal, that's for sure.

actually at first the smoke was whitish, as usual when i start the car up cold. then it started to shoot black smoke out the exhaust...but after it settled down, it didn't shoot out that much smoke. now, the smoke is somewhat minimal. maybe i'll take video later.

i ordered a new o2 sensor from mazdatrix, i really hope that fixes the problem.

For those of you with non-sequential setup...i believe my stock cat is really leaky...and i have an ATR midpipe that i'm thinking about installing...but i've heard that it causes a lot of boost spike...but i've also heard that going non-seq really helps get the boost spike down, and in some cases out of the picture. Would it be safe for me to install the midpipe with my non-seq set up? I have a PFC...are there any changes i can make using the commander to make it safer? maybe if i get an FMIC i'll take it to KDR to have them tune it...but i have to go in for inspection next year...and it'll be such a hassle to reinstall everything.

 

maybe because i have the PFC, the lack of an O2 sensor is causing the engine to run so rough...7-sins told me that most likely it's not a vaccum leak because i'm running the non-sequential setup...any ideas???

 

Bump

 

after doing the conversion, running the mid-pipe helps to spool the turbos quicker...i run a pettit midpipe....and im non-seq...works great with no spikes.....

 

i'm a little worried about putting in the midpipe because of the boost spikes...even one could kill my motor right? maybe if i get a wideband O2 and a datalogit for my PFC, i'll put the midpipe in...

Boostcrzy - did you have to tune your car after putting the midpipe in? any adjustments in the fuel curve?

 

Sounds to me like the 02 sensor being unplugged is your culprit for the jumpy idle. None of the other mods would do anything in that regard, and it's hard to screw up the non-seq. Replace it and let us know how it goes.

 

boost spikes oocur when running sequential during transition...you get boost CREEP when you run non seq without porting the wastegate.

 

edit: nevermind on the MAP hose

 

thanks for the replies guys, i should be getting in the new O2 sensor friday or monday...i'll let you know how it goes after putting it in...i really hope it fixes the problem...

 

raise yoru idle to like 800-900 and see what happens, it looks like your only doing about 500rpm right now which is way to low!

BTW: are you running a stright dp to air or something, your exhaust sounds like its screaming

 

maybe i'll try adjusting the idle if putting in the O2 sensor doesn't fix my idle...because i know my car was idling normal before this...

i was really suprised how loud it was when i started the car...i had no idea putting in a dp would make it that much louder. I have a couple exhaust leaks i need to take a look at when i take my dp out again...and my stock cat isn't helping the leaking at all. maybe i'll pick up an N-tech hiflow cat...anyone know if that smells? i heard the bonez makes your car smell pretty bad...like a midpipe...so i'm reluctant to get that one...

 

get a mid pipe, btw, why adjust the idle after??? my god, it only takes a screw driver and a needle nose pliers to adjust and is free unlike a O2 sensor!

 

It didn't. Its the non sequential part that makes it so loud at idle. ...wait til you get a midpipe.

 

When the O2 is not connected it will richen the mix at idle and wont go to stoich when cruising on the hwy. It can effect your idle but you are better off with out it really. You can fix your idle with the AAS(Air adjusting screw) and get the idle around 850-900 rpms and you will be money.

-Rikki
on jammers screen name

 

So i should adjust the idle? I talked to Dave (FD3Boost) and he told me i shouldn't touch the idle...but if you guys think it'll fix it, i'll give it a try tonight...see if it does the trick...

but will adjusting the AAS fix the fact that the idle jumps up and down the way it does now? If i adjust the idle higher, will it just bounce up and down, but at a higher RPM? But i'll give it a shot anyway...i guess there's no harm in trying.

 

if your idle was fine before, I wouldn't touch it. You probably have another problem. wait and see if the O2 sensor helps (though I honestly doubt that is your problem )

 

You got to listen to me here. Use the AAS to get it to stop bouncing. and raise the idle to 850-900 rpms. You have basically no emmisions it is alot richer at idle now. UNDERSTAND. Your 02 means **** I have not had my o2 plugged up for over a year.

-Rikki

 

Also dave called me and asked me this a few nights ago and got my answer all mixed up. He does not know too much. Sorry dave you are good with wood but not cars.

-Rikki

 

Also a PFC or PMC would help so you could pull out some fuel at idle too.


-Rikki

 

Alright...thanks for the advice Rikki...i'll go home today and adjust the AAS to see if i can get it to stop bouncing...the AAS is different from the TPS right?

Hey Rikki, you think it's ok if i put my midpipe in without getting my PFC tuned? i want to see if my stock cat is causing my exhaust leaks or if it's something else.

For some reason there's still a leak between my cat back and cat even with the bolts tightened all the way...at one point i had three gaskets in there and it still leaked a little bit...

but anyway...i'll go try adjusting the AAS and see what happens.

 

Once again you are mistaken my bloated friend. I explained it exactly correct, before I even spoke with you mind you. I never talked to him again after I talked to you. Then I told you that and you agreed. It's not my fault that he didnt get it right.
Did all those stackers make you forget already donkey?

Watch out Rikki or your head just might tip you over.
Im no PFS employee but I do just fine


BTW this is question is coming form the guy that was asking me where to buy 3m tape and how to mount up a taillight cover. And you question me .. Tsssk Tssk Rikki


Werd