NO NO NO, I told you not touch the TPS. The first thing I suggested to you was to try to adjust the idle control.

 

Alright, i adjusted the screw and got the car to idle around 800 RPM...it still fluctuates up and down, but the gap isn't as big...maybe between 800 and 750...but it's not rock solid like it should be.

So i took the car out for a spin...drove down the street...and it felt really laggy...just from pushing down the accelerator it didn't seem to rev right...

so i take it a little further, and decide to boost a little bit...i might've gotten about 5+ psi but i could feel it pulling...then right after i let it coast and idle, and all of the sudden the sound of the car changed...it sounded a lot more normal and i could actually hear the exhaust sound...

here's the bad part...i turn around to go home...and i'm having trouble getting the car to move. everytime i try to accelerate, it'll move a little bit...but then stop, and if keep the throttle down, the revs just slowly drop until i release the throttle. and it kept doing this over and over...and it took me, what felt like forver, to get the car back to my garage...i couldn't get any power from the car...i even had trouble getting up small hills...in any gear!

If i shut the engine off and started it again, it'd start accelerating fine for 2 seconds, then i hear a sound...which sounds like the whoosh of air (the same sound i used to hear after warming up the car and when i first start accelerating)...perhaps the double throttle? well right after i hear that sound the car just bogs like before.

I have no idea what's wrong with the car...i'd put it back to seq. if one of the nipples on the charge relief actuator didn't break off...so i'm kinda stuck, unless i get a new actuator...please help! i'm desperate here...

is it possible that i blew my motor? when i got home, i shut the car off...then started it again, and noticed some black smoke coming out of the exhuast...and i've heard this is a sign of a blown motor...

 

Ohh ****, great advice Rikki!
LOL

Dude I couldnt tell you if iits blown, i do have actuator that I'll sell you real cheapo if you need it

Since my advice sucks and Rikki is the non sequential guru. Let him give you advice.

Werd

 

i'm not sure which one is the TPS...but the screw i adjusted was the one visible from the top on the throttle body...it has a small 8mm not screwed on to it to hold it in place. i took the 8mm nut off and adjusted the screw with a flat head screw driver...

did i adjust the wrong one?

 

No that is the idle adjust screw.You got it right
The TPS is on the back of the UIM .

 

thanks dave, i just might take you up on that offer for the actuator...

but let's see if rikki can help me out here first...i'd like to get this non-seq. to work to see what it's like...

cuz i was having problems with my seq. in the first place, that's why i wanted to try the non-seq.

 

OK well Rikki, it's all you. Lets see some money metal magic

 

thank goodness...is the TPS screw the one on the undersiden of the throttle body that's really hard to reach because the oil filter is in the way? it has a spring on it...correct me if i'm wrong...

 

if you need pictures of anything to help me diagnose this problem, let me know and i'll put my digicam to good use...

 

I already know what they look like man

 

Bump...rikki...where you at?!

right now, the although the RPM idles about right, the vaccum idles really high...much higher than it should be...what could be causing that problem?

 

Are you sure you got the map sensor hooked up? Post a video of what the car is doing thanx.

-Rikki

 

i'm positive the map sensor hose is hooked up...but i'll take another video this afternoon when i get home and post it up tonight...

 

Why would he not run a cheap O2 sensor?????? it will improve his gas mileage and when crusing carbon buildup will be less..


Just because it can be removed, doesn't mean you should.

 

i plan on putting in the O2 sensor...it should be coming in today...if not today, then monday...

 

The screw in this pick...should i adjust this screw to help make the idle more steady?

the screw i've been adjusting is closer to the throttle cable that has a tiny 8mm bolt securing it in place.

should i try adjusting the screw in the picture to get my idle to set right?

 

O2 shouldn't have anything to do with this problem. Since you have the PFS - go into the settings menu (or is it the ETC menu? I forget) and disable the 02 sensor. That is an option there, that will prevent the car from going into closed loop.

But since the o2 sensor is not used at idle - it shouldn't matter. It is only used when at low load for simething like 45 seconds, AND while being in a certain rev range.

beyond that I have no idea - sounds like something was not hooked up correctly, or there is something broken. Since you don't know what was wrong before the conversion to N/S you could be having the same problem, or you could have gone even worse.

As for the mid-pipe, you might want to consider getting your existing problems straightened out before changing things more. It's not very likeley that the Cat is causing these problems. Clogged cats cause other problems, hot ceneter consoles, and low power above 6K, etc.

 

well the problem that i was having in seq. was that i was only getting 5psi above 4500 rpm. The primary spooled fine, but once i hit 4500 rpm the car just bogged to 5psi...and it wouldn't boost.

i'll go home today and start looking around to see if something is disconnected...and i'll take another video of the car idling...and if i can, of the car driving...