Jacking Points?
#3
Junior Member
Lots of threads on this topic, but might as well make something useful out of this one…I use a Quickjacks 5000. It’s kind of like a cross between jack stands and a lift. It jacks up the car from the factory pinch weld jack points and is super quick and easy to use. Like any other tool like this you need to be careful and make sure you lock it otherwise you could be crushed under the car. I usually slide jack stands under the subframes for added safety.
#4
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (2)
I refuse to use the pinch welds with a floor jack or jack stands, as they crush too easily.
In one of the previous threads, a lot of people mentioned jacking up the front via the front subframe, and the rear via the diff. I use those locations and they seem to work fine. For the jack stands, I put them on the front chassis legs (with rags as padding) and on rear subframe where the lower control arms connect.
In one of the previous threads, a lot of people mentioned jacking up the front via the front subframe, and the rear via the diff. I use those locations and they seem to work fine. For the jack stands, I put them on the front chassis legs (with rags as padding) and on rear subframe where the lower control arms connect.
#5
Junior Member
I refuse to use the pinch welds with a floor jack or jack stands, as they crush too easily.
In one of the previous threads, a lot of people mentioned jacking up the front via the front subframe, and the rear via the diff. I use those locations and they seem to work fine. For the jack stands, I put them on the front chassis legs (with rags as padding) and on rear subframe where the lower control arms connect.
In one of the previous threads, a lot of people mentioned jacking up the front via the front subframe, and the rear via the diff. I use those locations and they seem to work fine. For the jack stands, I put them on the front chassis legs (with rags as padding) and on rear subframe where the lower control arms connect.
Yea, you should never have to actually put weight on the pinch welds themselves. There are rubber pads for jacks/jack stands that have a little slit in them, so the weight of the chassis rests directly on the pads. The aforementioned Quickjack system includes large rubber pads like this. Pinch welds on my FD look like they are brand new. I agree with not jacking the car up on the pinch welds with a floor jack when there are better places to do it
#6
~17 MPG
iTrader: (2)
Yea, you should never have to actually put weight on the pinch welds themselves. There are rubber pads for jacks/jack stands that have a little slit in them, so the weight of the chassis rests directly on the pads. The aforementioned Quickjack system includes large rubber pads like this. Pinch welds on my FD look like they are brand new. I agree with not jacking the car up on the pinch welds with a floor jack when there are better places to do it
#8
F'n Newbie...
iTrader: (6)
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scotty305 (06-06-22)
#9
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
I always jack up my car by the front subframe middle then put jack stands on the pinch welds with the rubber pinch weld adapters. Then jack the rear from the diff and put the floor jacks in the same place.
If you don't have the adapters put the jack stands on the subframe. There are good spots on the subframe a floor jack works at and it's much thicker steel.
Dale
If you don't have the adapters put the jack stands on the subframe. There are good spots on the subframe a floor jack works at and it's much thicker steel.
Dale
#10
Urban Combat Vet
iTrader: (16)
I refuse to use the pinch welds with a floor jack or jack stands, as they crush too easily.
In one of the previous threads, a lot of people mentioned jacking up the front via the front subframe, and the rear via the diff. I use those locations and they seem to work fine. For the jack stands, I put them on the front chassis legs (with rags as padding) and on rear subframe where the lower control arms connect.
In one of the previous threads, a lot of people mentioned jacking up the front via the front subframe, and the rear via the diff. I use those locations and they seem to work fine. For the jack stands, I put them on the front chassis legs (with rags as padding) and on rear subframe where the lower control arms connect.
Jacking the car up by the rear differential or front subframe may not always be avoidable, but if not using a lift I like to run the front of the car up on ramps so I can clearly see to position the Jack on the front subframe and avoid the pan.
If you’re concerned about scratching a pinch weld I’d suggest getting some inexpensive jack stand pads from Harbor Freight to support the car once up.
Most people don’t realize that eyes really can bug-out like a cartoon character from the weight of a vehicle.
Last edited by Sgtblue; 06-06-22 at 12:13 PM.
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