Items to be replaced when pulling the motor
Items to be replaced when pulling the motor
I searched through the archives and FAQ but didnt find anything. If there is a link, and if possible, part numbers...I'd appreciate it.
In short, I suspect a coolant seal(s) is/are starting to go. Started to notice the overflow tank filling up and the coolant buzzer going off after a few days of boosting at the autocross and some spirited drives in the past few months. It's fine, however, at a normal cruise. Dave at KDR did the pressure test at the filler neck and it was good. No burning coolant in the exhaust and plugs checked out fine. I changed the rad cap twice(Mazda OEM) so its not that. AST has been eliminated. I did the champagne test several times on different occasions with the Lisle funnel and got bubbles a few times and other times, none at all. A few times there tiny, minute pieces of black film that ringed onto the funnel when the coolant drained back after shutoff. Other times there werent. From my understanding, these things tend to go with age and mileage. My car has never overheated though towards the end of the last season of autox, my battery was dying and I didn't run the fans or the heater during the sessios for fear of killling the battery. The temp needle never rose however.
Here are my stats: 94 R2(orig. motor) 55,000 miles, 99 turbos(2 years old) all reliability mods done. I had all the coolant lines replaced back in the winter. Cost being no option, what things should I be replacing and deleting that are accesible when the motor is out? My car does not get inspected for emissions so I guess that stuff can go. I run a HF cat with a Pettit ECU and IIRC, the airpump should stay in unless I run a PFC and midpipe. My primary use is autox, so I'll be staying sequential.
Off the top of my head I'm thinking: harness, injectors, motor mounts, oil pan gasket, t-stat, water pump. Anything else? Additional sensors, gaskets?
Thank you and I apologize if this has been discussed before without me finding it!
In short, I suspect a coolant seal(s) is/are starting to go. Started to notice the overflow tank filling up and the coolant buzzer going off after a few days of boosting at the autocross and some spirited drives in the past few months. It's fine, however, at a normal cruise. Dave at KDR did the pressure test at the filler neck and it was good. No burning coolant in the exhaust and plugs checked out fine. I changed the rad cap twice(Mazda OEM) so its not that. AST has been eliminated. I did the champagne test several times on different occasions with the Lisle funnel and got bubbles a few times and other times, none at all. A few times there tiny, minute pieces of black film that ringed onto the funnel when the coolant drained back after shutoff. Other times there werent. From my understanding, these things tend to go with age and mileage. My car has never overheated though towards the end of the last season of autox, my battery was dying and I didn't run the fans or the heater during the sessios for fear of killling the battery. The temp needle never rose however.
Here are my stats: 94 R2(orig. motor) 55,000 miles, 99 turbos(2 years old) all reliability mods done. I had all the coolant lines replaced back in the winter. Cost being no option, what things should I be replacing and deleting that are accesible when the motor is out? My car does not get inspected for emissions so I guess that stuff can go. I run a HF cat with a Pettit ECU and IIRC, the airpump should stay in unless I run a PFC and midpipe. My primary use is autox, so I'll be staying sequential.
Off the top of my head I'm thinking: harness, injectors, motor mounts, oil pan gasket, t-stat, water pump. Anything else? Additional sensors, gaskets?
Thank you and I apologize if this has been discussed before without me finding it!
Last edited by DJF(NJ); Jun 14, 2008 at 08:01 AM.
Constant threat
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,968
Likes: 39
From: near Wichita, Kansas
02 sensor
any coolant line not replaced before (I know you said 'all' but...check anyway)
all vacuum lines
check your power steering pump hoses, the low-pressure one tends to develop seepage
new belts
check the idler pulley bearings or replace with a new one
throttle body 'O' ring gasket if using stock intake
injector gaskets and diffusers
OMP lines
clutch
clutch release bearing
go ahead and remove the radiator and blow/wash the road debris out of it
clean a/c condenser if you still have a/c
take the time to freshen up the engine bay, remove any rust anywhere, prime and paint to restore to new condition
any coolant line not replaced before (I know you said 'all' but...check anyway)
all vacuum lines
check your power steering pump hoses, the low-pressure one tends to develop seepage
new belts
check the idler pulley bearings or replace with a new one
throttle body 'O' ring gasket if using stock intake
injector gaskets and diffusers
OMP lines
clutch
clutch release bearing
go ahead and remove the radiator and blow/wash the road debris out of it
clean a/c condenser if you still have a/c
take the time to freshen up the engine bay, remove any rust anywhere, prime and paint to restore to new condition
Rotary Freak
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,779
Likes: 0
From: Peoria, IL
A couple of notes:
I would try replacing the small hose that runs from the radiator to the overflow bottle. If you have a small leak, coolant can flow from the radiator when hot, but not back again as it cools. Just an outside chance that might be your problem.
On another note, I wouldn't replace the injectors if you pull the engine, I would just have them rebuilt. RC Engineering or Witchhunter are good, and a LOT less expensive than new.
I would definitely replace all the coolant hoses (not in your case since they are basically brand new), and put new silicone vacuum lines on if you haven't already.
I would add a Garfinkle oil pan brace too.
I would try replacing the small hose that runs from the radiator to the overflow bottle. If you have a small leak, coolant can flow from the radiator when hot, but not back again as it cools. Just an outside chance that might be your problem.
On another note, I wouldn't replace the injectors if you pull the engine, I would just have them rebuilt. RC Engineering or Witchhunter are good, and a LOT less expensive than new.
I would definitely replace all the coolant hoses (not in your case since they are basically brand new), and put new silicone vacuum lines on if you haven't already.
I would add a Garfinkle oil pan brace too.
bajaman---sorry, forgot to add that my A/C system was removed years ago. Also I had new power steering hoses replaced a few years back after I foolishly removed the PS and then reattached it while losing the hoses during the short time it was off.
hanman---the line from the overflow bottle was replaced a few years ago and is in good condition. In fact, I had to unhook it from the filler neck and blow into the overflow bottle to get the excess coolant out of the it. I appologize for not mentioning that prior. Yes, silicone vacumn lines were replaced years ago with the reliability mods. I remember reading some good and bad things about rebuilt injectors awhile back, hence my decision to just buy new. I have the Mazdacomp discount in which prices are slighly better than Malloys.
Thank alot...keep em' coming if anymore!
hanman---the line from the overflow bottle was replaced a few years ago and is in good condition. In fact, I had to unhook it from the filler neck and blow into the overflow bottle to get the excess coolant out of the it. I appologize for not mentioning that prior. Yes, silicone vacumn lines were replaced years ago with the reliability mods. I remember reading some good and bad things about rebuilt injectors awhile back, hence my decision to just buy new. I have the Mazdacomp discount in which prices are slighly better than Malloys.
Thank alot...keep em' coming if anymore!
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A couple of notes:
I would try replacing the small hose that runs from the radiator to the overflow bottle. If you have a small leak, coolant can flow from the radiator when hot, but not back again as it cools. Just an outside chance that might be your problem.
On another note, I wouldn't replace the injectors if you pull the engine, I would just have them rebuilt. RC Engineering or Witchhunter are good, and a LOT less expensive than new.
I would definitely replace all the coolant hoses (not in your case since they are basically brand new), and put new silicone vacuum lines on if you haven't already.
I would add a Garfinkle oil pan brace too.
I would try replacing the small hose that runs from the radiator to the overflow bottle. If you have a small leak, coolant can flow from the radiator when hot, but not back again as it cools. Just an outside chance that might be your problem.
On another note, I wouldn't replace the injectors if you pull the engine, I would just have them rebuilt. RC Engineering or Witchhunter are good, and a LOT less expensive than new.
I would definitely replace all the coolant hoses (not in your case since they are basically brand new), and put new silicone vacuum lines on if you haven't already.
I would add a Garfinkle oil pan brace too.
87 NA build in progress
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 293
Likes: 0
From: Portland
WitchHunter
I'm pretty sure they do, do rebuilding!!! Unless I'm retarted.
http://www.witchhunter.com/injectorserv1.php4
http://www.witchhunter.com/injectorserv1.php4
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