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ISC blockoff

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Old Jan 7, 2016 | 08:36 PM
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ISC blockoff

So I know what it does, but being it is included in the banzai kit that would mean people are still removing it. Would like to hear from people from both sides as to why you removed it or left it. For reference my fd doesn't have a/c, p/s, has power fc for ecu, and is somewhat modified and I am in the process of changing the twins for a single so it will be getting simplified with all the vacuum lines and emissions. If it is just for weight, than I feel I would keep it. As of now I am also keeping the thermowax but removed everything else included in the blockoff kit.

Last edited by Houstonderk; Jan 7, 2016 at 08:41 PM.
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Old Jan 9, 2016 | 08:47 AM
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IMHO there is no good reason to remove the ISC. It weighs nothing, it has a simple hookup, and it does its job very well.

They just include it in the kit because it's really easy to make another blockoff plate for the kit. On a hardcore racecar, maybe, but just leave it be.

Dale
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Old Jan 11, 2016 | 08:11 AM
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How about I removed mine because it was acting up and giving me a crazy idle bounce. So, that is a good reason.
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Old Jan 11, 2016 | 09:29 AM
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Had any problems without it like dying with load or anything?
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Old Jan 11, 2016 | 10:52 AM
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I have a street port and I run Adaptronic just as an FYI.

I set mine to idle a bit high. Around 1100-1200 rpm. Just where it like to be.

So, when I add load like A/C it may dip to 1K but that is fine and the car has no issues with that.

Only real issue is on a cold star up. I usually hold the gas pedal down and keep the car at around 2500rpm for about 20-30 seconds to mimic the warm up. Otherwise, it will die sometimes right a first.

Last edited by scruggyj; Jan 11, 2016 at 10:54 AM. Reason: more info
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Old Jan 11, 2016 | 12:27 PM
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Did you remove the thermowax and fast idle cam though?
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Old Jan 11, 2016 | 12:47 PM
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yeah a lot of that stuff was gone off my car when I bought it.
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Old Jan 12, 2016 | 01:11 PM
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Leave the isc. 90% of the time an idle issue is with the tune or throttle body settings. Without the isc the car won't bump the idle for electrical load so you need to set it manually slightly high.
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Old Jan 13, 2016 | 06:34 AM
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Originally Posted by scruggyj
I have a street port and I run Adaptronic just as an FYI.

I set mine to idle a bit high. Around 1100-1200 rpm. Just where it like to be.

So, when I add load like A/C it may dip to 1K but that is fine and the car has no issues with that.

Only real issue is on a cold star up. I usually hold the gas pedal down and keep the car at around 2500rpm for about 20-30 seconds to mimic the warm up. Otherwise, it will die sometimes right a first.
You can make the ISC raise the idle when cold so you do not have to use your foot .

Using an ISC is always the way to go. It can just take a lot of time to set it up right.
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Old Jan 13, 2016 | 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Turblown
You can make the ISC raise the idle when cold so you do not have to use your foot .

Using an ISC is always the way to go. It can just take a lot of time to set it up right.

I had my FD for over a year and one day the idle just started going crazy. I tried a lot of things. As soon as I unplugged the ISC it stopped and idled normal. So, I took it off and cleaned it and tried again and I got the same crazy idle bounce. So, I blocked it off. I assume the solenoid had gone bad or something.
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Old Jan 14, 2016 | 02:04 PM
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For a street car, the ISC keeps the idle far more civilized. Even if it was acting up, I would get another ISC before eliminating it. In a race car, everything is so jacked up anyway it wouldn't really matter.
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