rx7machine

I have stock twins. I am interested in upgrading to a better intercooler. I don't plan on converting to a single turbo set-up. I know a fmic would block needed air from getting to the radiator..(I may also upgrade to a fluydine rad.) and the smic is more likely to heat soak.. I don't plan on taking my car to the track (strip) alot..maybe a little bit. I don't live in the city. But I need something that would be good to drive around town once in a while, with the occassional stop light to stop light racing. I may upgrade to the M2 twins at some point..if that would matter. I am almost convienced on getting a M2 intake box also..I think it would be the best in intakes. That's why I thought a fmic would let me fit the M2 intake box in and not sure if a smic would.. Are there any fmic's that don't require cutting up my fd? I know it would probably help cooling if I had some sort of block in for my radiator.. but not sure how that works.. thanks alot.

rx7raca

i think you should stick with a smic, i would suggest getting the large m2 smic, fmics are for more drag racing, but if u really really want a fmic,IMO i think the 2 row is nice. i havnt heard anything bad about it. you are gonna have to relocate alot more things with a fmic than a smic. less work for smic...

geoff's 2 cents

1FooknTiteFD

if you are really adamant about getting an M2 airbox then the only FMIC that I know of is the rx7fashion one that will work with it. However, if you get that one you will have to chop up your front bumper in order to make the intercooler fit since it's so huge. The only FMIC that I know of that requires minimal cutting, is the apex'i GT intercooler, but if you get that one you won't be able to use the m2 airbox.

SleepR1

Using the search function, I've been digging up old intercooler threads doing research myself on this topic. After weeks of reading old threads, I've decided on the Greddy FMIC with open intake. Go to this thread to read about it https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...5&pagenumber=4

My preference is for the Greddy 3-row, because it's the biggest and most efficient FMIC available, (although comparable to the Apex GT FMIC, I think?). The problem lies in the extra pipe that's needed for the 3-row kit to work for a twin turbo applicatoin. Jason Baughman of the Rx7 Store is checking on this.

FWIW, you should consider the Japan spec Type RS/RZ twins instead of the M2 ball bearing turbos. The Japan specs are much cheaper brand new. SR Motorsports offers brand new J-spec for $2900-something. I think M2 wants $3500! The jury is still out on whether ball-bearing turbos are worth the extra dough. So Far Capt Bill has been disappointed (Capt Bill as the Ball Bearing TTs from M2). In contrast FD enthusiasts who have the J-specs rave about them. I have a brand new set myself, but are sitting in a box waiting to be installed on a new motor.

The main difference between the stock US spec twins and the J-spec twins are:

-abraded seal with ~zero tolerance between compressor fin and housing for maximum efficiency.
-redesigned compressor wheel fins for maximum air flow
-smaller diameter compressor wheel 50 mm vs 51 mm for old stock twins.

These refinements allow the J-spec twins to spool up more quickly decreasing boost lag, decrease heat production (due to maximized efficiency), and increase boost production (10.8 psi manifold versus 9.1 psi manifold of the old twins).

rx7machine

If I get the large M2, is there any relocation of anything?

Chaz

I believe the M2 large requires relocation of the battery, however the M2 medium doesn't require the re-location of anything. Both of the M2 sizes require the use of the GReddy elbow as well. If you're interested in this I/C be prepaired to wait as there is a pretty long back order right now. Jason at the rx7store will soon be offering these directly from Kevin.

cartervs

Yes... the large M2 i understand requires battery relocation and you are unable to use stock air box... Thant said, you my possibly consider the med M2 IC. Do a good search, you will find much info available. I myself, have just purchased a PFS race IC,(sim to M2 med in size..Sincerly, Carter

SleepR1

you probably paid too much for it at PFS

Kevin T. Wyum

The delay will be minimal. I'm just finishing up the tubing on a bulk order of 10 med IC's for Jason now. I should ship all of them this week and my understanding is that he has a few of the bunch that are not spoken for at this time.

Kevin T. Wyum

P.S. I've already spotted one problem with the IC and duct not lining up that has been corrected. I actually made the change years ago to fix the same problem but I'm not sure how the mediums went back to the prefix version while I was out of the picture. Which is why I was confused about anyone saying it didn't line up.

The IC is actually shifted about 1" to 1/2" further away from the battery as well to avoid any of the rubbing.

SleepR1

So does Jason have the ASP large race ICs in stock with all the corrections made?

Johnsrx7

Go with the M2 medium, no relocation, no hacking the front end for the FMIC, no cooling issues with the medium IC. Unless you road race, go with the medium works great for track sessions as well, its the easiest to install an works great.

No matter what IC you get, they ALL heat soak sitting in traffic, but they cool down real quick when you get moving again.

gzon

Definetly an FMIC, Its a little more work to raise the rad. and the AC-cond. but its worth it.

If you dont hade the thum in the middle of you hand you can make a kit by yourself. Here is how my FMIC kit looks, not completely finished thow. Im gonna build the rest of the box around the filters this winter and Im polishing the pipes right now.

TomsRX7

Kevin, I already have the M2 Medium. Can you give me more details on IC and duct not lining up? What exactly was the problem?

As for moving the IC away from the batter to avoid rubbing, how can that be??? I have the M2 cool air box and the IC is wedged tight between that and the batter; there's no room for it to move in either direction. You must be assuming that people don't have the cool air box.

Thanks bud,
Tom

SleepR1

Martin, nice FMIC install. I like the custom pipes and intake

suprfast

my buddy has an M2 medium. he just put in a 51-r honda battery and it no longer rubs. he just put in a cold air box too. what is the word on the medium fitting with the apexi intake? i know he had the (ens???) similar to BLITZ and he had to do some funny things to the intake to make it fit.
kris

gohorns

IMO for the stock twins get the Pettit SMIC (coolcharge II) and save some money over the M2. It works with the M2 or any aftermarket intake. Also works with the Efini-Y pipe and you dont have to relocate the battery. I know someone who runs mid 12s with this IC. As for the M2 turbos, do some more research, those are for high boost app.

ptrhahn

iTrader: (9)

Kevin,
Something to consider for the future might be to cant the IC forward a bit more to allow an S-bend pipe from the standard of efini y-pipe crossover to the IC inlet similar to the cast pipe on a PFS standard IC. Alot of complaints have come from the current pipe you use, and even more so if people attempt to keep the airpump, which is increasingly necessary with increased emission testing in alot of states.

Right now, it looks like your IC sits nearly bolt-upright. The CWR (and to a lesser-degree the PFS) cant forward a bit to allow such a pipe.

CWR large IC's needed alot of install work, but a few details could be incorporated to make yours better. A Perfect IC for me would be a "Med." version of the CWR that allowed me to keep my semi miniature (PC 925) battery, and the efini y-pipe, but had a duct that fit better like yours does.

Just a thought, glad your back!

artowar2

I just bought one of Kevin's new medium ICs from the RX7store.net, and wanted to let people know that all the pipes have beaded ends as promised. Everything arrived quickly and in fine shape (thanks RX7store).

Not having an M2 version of the medium IC, I can't compare to see what changes were made, but I trust that Kevin has made appropriate adjustments. I hope to install it in the next week or two (gotta finish the suspension work first).

TomsRX7

Why don't you take a few pics and post them? Then, us guys that have the M2 unit can post what we see different. Maybe measure and list the actual dimensions too.

-Tom

artowar2

Heh, I tell you what, if you like how your welding guy finishes your new pipes and PM his contact info to me, then I'll post pix of the kit

rx7machine

let's see those pics.

TomsRX7

Shiet.... no matter how good my guys welds are, I would not recommend him to anyone. It's taking him 6 freakin weeks to complete something that should take him 2 days max. The only reason I'm giving him the chance is that my GOOD friend at Mazdatrix is promissing me this guy is really good, to the point where he even brags about his work. So with that attitude, I figured he was a good person to be doing my work cuz I'm a real perfectionist.

But I will definitely post some pics when I FINALLY get it back...HOPEFULLY NEXT FRIDAY, THE 21ST!!!!

-Tom

jpandes

Here's a pic of my engine bay with a Large SMIC and a Hawker mini battery... Go BIG or Go home. j/k

tgriesel

Where's the picture?

tgriesel

Aside from which IC you use, which setup would have better flow, an s-bend piped from the IC to an efini y-pipe/crossover or a more direct route to the stock y-pipe (which doesn't flow as well as an efini)? My understanding is that the efini design is good for an extra psi over stock. Specifically, the bung for the stock y-pipe BOV sticks out into the compressor discharge flow path and the design of the efini has minimal interference to the airflow. Plus the efini setup was made to work with the airpump by mazda's engineers so there are no fitment problems. It seems that finding a way to use this setup would be the best way to go for anyone retaining the air pump. Love to hear your thoughts.