Slipstream Steve

Hey guys,
After finally fixing my sequential turbo thanks to help from the forum, I expected an end to the poor performance.

Nope. I get 10-8-10 at wot in 3rd, but car seems to have low power. I would guess 120-150 HP max.

After a brand new universal o2 sensor and brand new plugs, the car is still instant fouling the plugs. (Im talking drive down the road and back and they get coated in carbon)

Also after changing the o2 sensor the idle dropped to 800 and is now very lumpy.

I've also performed a steam clean with no change.

I have
105-110 on front rotor
110-115 on rear

To sum up;
Good compression and boost.
Very low power (got out dragged from the lights by a minivan)
All Plugs are getting fouled very quickly.
Lumpy idle.
Seems to be very rich.

As far as I know it's a stock port

96fd3s

Interesting, if you are really getting 10-8-10 boost pattern then I cant see how you would only be making 150hp, it would have to miss and run like utter crap to make that much boost and have such low power, in which case I dont think you would have the correct boost pattern.

Just trying to get my head around how your making the boost but have such low power, its gotta be too much fuel or dodgy ignition, surely?

Have you checked to make sure your getting spark on both the leading and trailing plugs?
edit; all your spark plug wires are in the correct places?

Slipstream Steve

I am getting the 10-8-10 at wot in 3rd.... But only then! I should have mentioned it doesn't easily make boost, and it needs wot to start making positive pressure.
Im not entirely sure how it should perform as this is my first experience with an RX.

My ecu is stock, and I have a new o2 sensor and water temp sensor, so what else could be causing it to over fuel, if it is?

My leads are all in the correct places. Not sure if they are igniting though, but I assume it's running on both rotors as they were all warm

fallafalla

Perhaps a leaky injector or partially blocked cat converter assuming you still have one?

96fd3s

is your MAP sensor working and hooked up correctly?
that would also make it run like crap

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Most likely it's something with ignition. I had a bad leading coil I *thought* was good that I installed once. Car ran, but made almost no power.

It failed the resistance test in the shop manual also.

Make TRIPLE TRIPLE sure the plug wires are on right. You'll get a lot of similar issues with plug wires installed wrong. Leading is Lower, Trailing is Top. 1 is front rotor, 2 is rear rotor.

Dale

Slipstream Steve

Thanks for the tips. Map sensor is hooked up correctly and car doesn't even start when it's unplugged, so I assume its working.

I'll get the injectors cleaned and tested and check all the coils and wires against the factory specs.

What threw me though, is every single plug fouled instantly, so that means that at least one of the coil packs for both rotors have failed?

I pulled all the coils out and put them back in and checked they were in the right places, but im away and don't have a multimeter handy to test resistance. Will get another asap.

Can a poor ground issue cause this? I just went through all my grounds, and I seem to be missing the ground that goes to frame underneath the air box assembly. Not sure where the ground is supposed to go to.

96fd3s

im not positive but i seem to remember there can be an issue running an aftermarket o2 sensor with the stock ECU.
maybe try a different stock o2 sensor

Tem120

iTrader: (5)

you are saying stock ECU .. well ..


here are some questions , are you getting smoke out the exhaust>?

oil seeping into the engine and fouling ?

, Tomuch fuel causing missfire?

Do you have any CEL?

check the intake pipe see if there is excess oil in there maybe the turbos are bad and feeding tomuch oil into the motor

causing plugs to faul .

OR like stated above leaking injectors that can cause the lumpy idle as well .

Slipstream Steve

At cold start there's plenty of blue smoke, but after warming up, no visible smoke. Even after it's warm you can't stand near the exhaust because of the fumes though. And you could commit suicide by leaving the car running with the garage door OPEN.

There is oil in the intake throttle body. How much is normal, and how much is a sign of blown turbos?

I have a JDM spec, so I have no cel indicator, however, I looked it up, and seems like I can make one with an led and a 500ohm resistor.

Is there any other reason apart from injectors, o2 sensor that could cause the stock ecu to over fuel?

Tem120

iTrader: (5)

yes a wrong reading on the MAP sensor . could cause that . But I dont know how often that is .

did you eliminate the PCV ?

Slipstream Steve

Nope haven't eliminated pcv but was definitely planning on it, as the hard hoses to the oil filler neck form a very poor fit

Tem120

iTrader: (5)

I ask because when you eliminate it , you get more oil going into the intake pipes / intercooler / unless you did a catch can


So your turbos MAY be leaking oil take off the Y pipe and see if you notice something , BUT yeah ..

MOST LIKELY it may be fuel .. atleast thats what ffouled my plugs up .

Does your car have the stock precat? on or a downpipe

Slipstream Steve

OK, I made up a cel reader with a LED and resistor, and I'm only getting one code - 5 flashes, which means knock sensor if I'm right . not good.

Slipstream Steve

I guess there's no way to check what knock readings with the stock ecu. Does this code mean solely that the knock sensor/wiring is bad, or does it also indicate if the knock readings are too high?

I'm trying to work out if the its just bad wiring, or I have another issue which is causing detonation in the engine.

Slipstream Steve

Also, I've noticed, the car the idles higher and smoother and has increased vacuum, when on any slight incline facing up.

Does anyone have any ideas on what changes on an incline? Less oil injected? Lower fuel pressure?

twan

iTrader: (2)

What oil are you using? post a pic of the plug! Maybe an OMP issue but I know for sure, if your not using a synthetic or at least castrol conventional, this will happen instantly.

Slipstream Steve

I'm not using synthetic - I was told that rotaries need to have dino oil due to deposits left from synthetic oils.

I'm using Castrol gtx 20w-50. I already uploaded a picture of the plug, but I'll try again.



I've attached it here.

Will having a knock sensor code make it so rich as to foul plugs?

twan

iTrader: (2)

leaky turbos is a good possibility if theres oil in the intake elbow but other things to consider, Weak Spark, Arching wires, failing coil pack, plug heat range, malfunctioning OMP. especially since Castrol is a good oil. Thats what i use, well now. had the same issue a long time ago before i knew better. Im no expert but experience has given me some ideas. Check what I mentioned if you havent already. Oh, and did you check your fuel pressure? The fumes make me think fuel mixture is way off.

Slipstream Steve

How Can I check if its my turbos that are pushing the oil into the intake?