ok, so I even use the special 10mm FLARE NUT WRENCH...and I go to loosen the flare nut (right rear brake line) and the darn wrench just turned around the nut, ... stripped the nut!!! I got the dam special flare wrench to avoid stripping the nut!!!

Any suggestions on my next cource of action?

I would hate to have to maul up the nut with a vice grips :-(


Notes:
Yes it was the right size flare nut wrench (not a size too big).... and yes I used liquid wrench on it first to see if it would help.

 

Bummer, but not unusual.

May I suggest a few very carefull passes with a propane torch on the nut and a pair of - yes - VICE GRIPS! (but lots of kudos for buying the wretched wrench in the first place and I personally like PB Blaster soaked overnight)

 

thanks for the help ron...I'll try some PB overnight and get the vice grips out tomorrow :-(

...my question is, can you get a new flare nut on without having to cut the end of the hardline and re-flare it?

 

you might want to try another flare nut wrench. i ran into the same problem. i first used a cheapo flare nut wrench that i had lying around. that rounded off the nut pretty good. i then went to sears and bought a craftsman 10mm flare nut wrench and it fit much better (better tolerances and shape) and it came loose with a gentle touch. might be worth trying for the $6.

 

thanks alwan16, I will try that...I will try anything to keep the remaining nuts from stripping!!!

... so the sears took off teh rounded one too? or did you have to vicegrip that one off?

 

Same problem when installing mine.....the PB is the sh*t! Also having reputable tools (ie: Craftsman, Snap-on, Mac, etc) makes a big difference!

The combo of PB and vice-grips worked for me after soaking overnight.

GEB.

 

what happens, is if you buy a crappy brand flare nut wrench, the tips of the wrench actually flex under hard pressure, and will cause the wrench to simply slip over the nut, stripping the nut.

I got a sears one, and it worked perfectly, didnt have to use that much force at all.

However when bleeding the brakes, the two bleeder valves up front stripper right over =\ anyone know what to do in that case?

Steve

 

the craftsman one worked great. mine was only partially rounded off but the sears one fit on it snug so it worked like a charm. i soaked it in pb blaster or liquid wrench before and dried it too. i think the surface of the craftsman one was flatter so it was less prone to slippage. it was probably stronger so it didn't flex at all like the guy said above.

 

If you do cut the line and re-flare it you'll be making the line work twice as hard since it will be shorter. It will probably fail. Make sure if you get new aftermarket ones they are EXACTLY the same length as OEM.

This is a great excuse to buy some new brake lines; cheap insurance. They do wear out from flexing, ozone exposure and inside out from the fluid.

 

I bought a cheap Kragen flare nut wrench and it broke and stripped the flare nut. I went to buy a Sears flare nut wrench and PERFECT! The ones I used the Kragen wrench one... i totally destroyed... I needed to use vise grips to get it off and back on. Weaksauce... but that's life.

Bottomline:
It is a must to have a Sears Craftsman or better 10mm flare nut wrench when working with the brake system replacing with stainless steel brake lines.

 

great info guys, thanks to all, I will pick up a sears flare wrench and some pb blast and goto work....


aslo, max cooper gave me some great advice, ...use vice grips, but on outside the flare wrench once its on the nut to hold it snug, another great idea.

 

I still need some advice, what do I do about rounded over bleeder screws?

 

buy new ones, vice grip the old ones out...

 

and replace them with speed bleeders... definitely a worthwhile investment

 

....agreed

 

Rx-7$4$me-if the bleeder screw is stripped try using the box end of the a wrench. I usually use the box end of the wrench for bleeding, unless i'm bleeding the brake master cylinder. Which would be impossible to use the box end. And if you can get a 6pt socket of it that should work also, then replace the bleeders screw when you get it off. When you use a flare wrench you can just slowly apply pressure you have to kind of jerk at the it. But this is assuming you have a decent flare wrench and craftsman tools are very iffy, some are okay and some are not.

 

i give a huge thanks to all that replied to my post, i dumoed my cheapo flare wrench, got myself a craftsman flare wrench at sears, and it worked!!! got them all off fine.

THANKS GUYS!!!!

see the pics here:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=202367