I'll installing a new clutch any pointers?

 

do a search. this has been asked 8 billion times and explained in detail. if you dont want to search, use the shop manual.

 

Asphyxia02- In my experience this is one of the most nightmarish FD jobs, up there with the vacum hose job. I HIGHLY recomment that the night B4 you soak all the exhaust bolts and the PPF bolts with some liquid wrench or WD40. Also the clutch alignment tool is pretty useless, it will get you in the ball park but you still have to do some eyeballing to line every thing up. Also if you cant get the exhaust bolts off the first time you try. Its quicker to just cut them off and/or drill them out and buy $2.00 worth of bolts than spend 3 hours tryin to get them off. And be really really careful with that cluch relese cylinder that rubber boot rips easy. Also when reassembling lubing up the input shaft on the tranny with a little oil will make your life alot easier.
And last but not least make sure you have the service manual. It will make the job alot easier. You can download the manual transmission section in Adobe format from several sites, just do a search.

 

very simple job, i can pull a tranny in under 30 minutes, after only doing it twice... WOrd of advice, use a lift, or get the car UP off the ground at a good height... Buy a slave cylinder rebuild kit at Auto zone for 9 bucks...

Steps are pretty straight forward
1) Undo Shifter ****, Boot and shifter console
2) Remove Manifold
3) Jack up car
4)Remove undercarriage support braces and shields
5) Remove Slave Cylinder and Starter and unplug harnesses
6) Remove PPF ( 4 on tranny and 5 on Diff)
7) Either pry Throwout bearing off of Pressur Plate or Undo Pressure plate bolts(6 total)
8)remove bolts from driveshaft(4 bolts) and remove driveshaft
9) Remove Bellhousing bolts 5 or 6
10) Lower tranny

 

Don't forget to support the engine and the rear diff. Make sure you have a new wire ring and wedge collar. Are you just doing the clutch or are you going to do the flywheel as well?

 

Rated R1 is right, if you are reusing your clutch.. MAKE SURE you get a new wedge collar and wire ring.. I learned this the hard way and used a used that one that looked to be in great shape. It popped out in under a mile lol

 

Also don't forget to reconnect the trowout bearing back into the wire ring. I did that and messed up my slave cylinder.

 

yeah ok. and i'm just doin the clutch not the flywheel, may resurface it though. maybe, maybe not

 

I'd resurface it if you've worn down your clutch a lot. If it's just slipping a bit I wouldn't worry about it. Also, replace your t/o bearing... just a week ago a friend of mine blew his used one out on his second autox run even though he had just done a clutch job. Don't go cheap in there.

 

Its not a complicated job and I can drop mine out in about 3o mins too. But its those siezed bolts that get you. If you had a compressor it will be of GREAT use to you.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by ejmack1
[B]very simple job, i can pull a tranny in under 30 minutes, after only doing it twice... [QUOTE]

 

also a good idea to replace the throwout bearing forks. i learned this the had way. w/ an increased PP, they seem to fail if they have any kind of milage on them (which it seems your will b/c you need a clutch plate) . my last one cracked in 3 places shooting the slave cylinder pin into the mix, and the pieces from the fork cracked bellhousing. also breaking my TOB.
all for a stupid $70 for set of forks.
dont be cheap in there. even if you can drop thetrany very quickly liek some of us, it is a pain in the *** and you just ruined good parts because you were being cheap.
as far as i know, there are no aftermarket (stronger) forks. only choioce is OEM. if anyone knows otherwise, please let us have a link.