supak111

iTrader: (3)

I just got a used power fc & commander, I did the 4 wires that needed to be cut on the harness, I reset the power fc but the car wont start. A few times it felt like it almost started but then it just kept cranking. Then I put the stock ECU back just to see if it will start and still not start https://www.rx7club.com/images/smili...tchhead.gif???

I'm thinking maybe the stock ecu cant run without those 4 wire, but they are only emission **** so I don't think so?? Or it maybe flooded with fuel I'm thinking is more likely??

Any help or suggestions welcome, thanks guys

PS. I just tried removing the fuel pump fuse and cranking the car a while to try to remove the extra fuel in case its flooded, I'll let you know if it fires up on the stock ecu or the pfc

KKMpunkrock2011

iTrader: (5)

flooded was my guess, to aid de-flooding pull the spark plugs while cranking and have the throttle open to force air in. also with your plugs pulled you will be able to see just how flooded the car is based on their color.

supak111

iTrader: (3)

Yea I just took out the plugs and the top plugs were full of fuel so I guess it might be flooded. Weird thing is the bottom plugs look totally dry, I wonder why that is??

arghx

iTrader: (3)

Are you sure you cut the white wires? Did you read the diagram correctly?

supak111

iTrader: (3)

Yes I am pretty damn sure. Not only did I check the location of the right before cutting but I also made sure its the right color wire. I also took my plugs out and I'm glad I did, they have a ton of carbon build up since my car has been running rich 11 a/f to 1 at idle for a long time.

DAMN Im an idiot, I just realized I totally forgot to readjust the AWS screw, thats probably the problem. I'll let you guys know

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Make sure you reinitialize the PFC. It's a little weird how you do it - go to Etc, Initialize, pick Yes, and hit Next. Then, turn the car off and back on again.

The idle bleed screw shouldn't keep it from starting.

My guess is the used PFC had a weird map for some totally different setup and it just needs to be reset to factory defaults.

Also, the stock computer should run the car just fine with the 4 wires cut, it will have a check engine light, but the car will start, run, and drive fine. They're all emissions related.

I'd just put a new set of plugs in and totally start fresh there. If the plugs are old and funky, now's a good time to replace them.

Dale

supak111

iTrader: (3)

Today I put the plugs back started the car on the stock ecu for a while, then put the PFC back and it fired up no problem. I think I must have done the PFC reset wrong but this time I made sure I reset it to stock maps to make sure I don't flood it again.

I have two problems still:

Car still runs rich at idle, around 10.5 to 1 a/f ratio. I don't get why its running this rich if the PFC is reset back to stock fuel maps??? Only thing I can think of is maybe one of the previous owner had a PFC and bigger injector but must have taken the PFC out before selling the car. I figure if the injectors are bigger and the PFC thinks they are stock it would run rich, but wouldn't the PFC readjust the fuel from the Oxygen sensors input??

Also the car pulls fine if I give it up to maybe 30% throttle, anything past that it just stops pulling and starts backfiring like crazy???? No clue what that could be, ignition maps should stock base PFC maps if I reset it right??

Thanks guys

supak111

iTrader: (3)

Just to let everyone know I got everything figured out. Car now starts and driver with the PFC great. I had a problem with my MAP sensor, the vacuum nipple on the MAP sensor was half broken so it was leaking and throwing off my ECU. Car idles great, runs at about 14.5 a/f while driver, around 13 to 1 while pushing it. At idle its at about 13 to 1 a/f as well which is way better then 10.5 a/f I had with the stock ecu. I disconnected the bad OMP and running premix which I think is great and not that hard to do at all. I just keep a bottle of 2 cycle oil in my car and I dump it into the gas tank before I fill up. I'll probably run synthetic oil in my engine now which should help the twins last a LOT longer.

KKMpunkrock2011

iTrader: (5)

you need richer than 13:1 at wot, should be about 11:1

supak111

iTrader: (3)

11 I think is way too rich. Turbo cars usually need 12.5 to 13.5, its at least what I've seen pull the best HP on dynos. Unless a rotary is different, but tuning is tuning it should be the same

black06g85

iTrader: (3)

not a good idea to run a rotary that lean man, should be in the 11.2-11.4 range on pump gas

KKMpunkrock2011

iTrader: (5)

wrong, rotaries require different tuning techniques, 11-11.5 on pump gas is not only recommended, it is required to maintain the health of your motor, do yourself a favor, if you have a commander or datalogit, next time you go wot check your knock values in relation to what they are when you're just cruising. running 13:1 I'm sure you'll see a MASSIVE spike in knock, that's detonation. Detonation = blown motor. All boosted non-rotary cars that I've seen usually run around 12:1 from what I've seen. Just because that's where they make the most power doesn't mean that's what's safe. Also at 13:1 I'm sure your EGT's are really high too. Heat kills motors. If you don't richen that map up to at least 12:1, preferably richer, I have a feeling you'll be pulling that motor sooner rather than later.

supak111

iTrader: (3)

Ok cool I'll just richen up the whole fuel map my 1 or 1.5. I was just running the stock PFC map, not sure why it's running at 13:1. Possibly cuz of my mods. I also compared some runner maps with cars that have similar mods and my map look the same. I'm getting a datalotit soon and I'll tune the whole thing to about 12:1 then

KKMpunkrock2011

iTrader: (5)

I still say you should be at 11.5 at WOT if not richer

supak111

iTrader: (3)

Yea that's fine, once I get datalotit I'll know for sure what afr I'm running all through the rpm