tom94RX-7

iTrader: (5)

So I can't get this bearing to press off of the input shaft, I'm using a gear puller and holding the jaws tight against the bearing/collar ring and it won't budge from the shaft. I just removed the bell housing to get to this bearing. I can pry the bearing out of the transmission a little ways, but the shaft comes with it, the bearing is
stuck on the shaft. The gear puller is not pulling it loose, no matter how tight I get it.

Should I heat up the bearing/shaft with a torch to try and get it off?

Please let me know what you think. thanks! and I've followed the instructions here with the gear puller on page 22 - http://www.wrex-racing.com/docs/fd/T...isassembly.PDF

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Did you remove the snap ring?

tom94RX-7

iTrader: (5)

Yes. I think i am going to make something better to hold the jaws tighter and then try with the impact gun, I was just using a big c clamp to hold the jaws and using a breaker bar on the gear puller but had to use one arm to hold the transmission from moving.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Yeah, the way I did it when I wrote that didn't work well.

I made a better clamp from mcmaster-carr parts that really works well. You will see if it you download the latest version of my writeup from www.davidgeesaman.com

Dave

tom94RX-7

iTrader: (5)

I also had that write up saved and was looking at that, thanks alot for it also. So what you have pictured to hold the jaws is the clamp that works very well? I need to make one of those and try with the impact gun.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Yeah it works very well.

PM me if you'd rather borrow mine.

badddrx7

iTrader: (7)

Install your 3 jaw puller with hose clamps around it to prevent slipping. Then hit it with an impact gun. Comes off every time


later

tom94RX-7

iTrader: (5)

I made something with some sort of pipe clamps from home depot last night, it didn't work, the jaws ended up popping off, I only tried it once though, and the clamps were flexing when I tightened the bolts. I will try with hose clamps and the impact gun today, if that don't work I think I'm gonna have to get out the torch to heat up the bearing. thanks.

tom94RX-7

iTrader: (5)

Do I actually have to insert a plate between the 4th synchro and the 4th gear? I don't have any other section of the tranny apart. I know that isn't my problem of this bearing not budging on the input shaft, but I don't know why that plate has to be in there.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

I don't believe so. I think that tool just keeps 4th synchro from falling out of place. I've installed a couple front input shaft bearings without it and no problems so far.

tom94RX-7

iTrader: (5)

So me and my dad just heated up the bearing and it budged about 2 mm and then it wont come any further, and the jaws end up popping off. We have tried everything, and now I think the only way this bearing is coming off the shaft is if I take apart the transmission and pull the shaft out the front of it with the bearing, then I could try to pull the bearing off and I am guessing I could get a better grip on the back of the bearing, or have it pressed off. So should I be able to pull the shaft out of the front of the transmission? Thanks!

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

I am aware of no other way to remove it. Even if you remove all other parts of the transmission you can't get them apart without that bearing being removed.

You need something that prevents the jaws from coming off the snap ring.

Dave

tom94RX-7

iTrader: (5)

So that shaft cant come out the front of the tranny? I do have something that holds the jaws tight, but the gear puller gets so tight that nothing else can happen except that little clip/snap ring bends and the jaw eventually comes off, no matter what is tightly holding the jaws together.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Why not just take the tranny to a transmission shop and have them pull it off? They'd probably only charge you about $20 to do it (if anything).

tom94RX-7

iTrader: (5)

I have thought about that, but it seems they would have to do the same thing i am doing with a gear puller and its on there too tight and with the shaft in there you have to pull on that snap ring which is not strong enough. I think the shaft has to come out the front with the bearing and then pressed off, is that possible? thanks

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

It won't come out with that bearing on. The mainshaft and input shaft have a bearing between them. First the countershaft comes out, then the input shaft main bearing. Then the mainshaft rear bearing. Then you can wiggle the input shaft around enough to sneak out the front. But there is no way to do that without pulling that bearing.

Go see a transmission shop. A 2 jaw puller with locking bar will do it.

tom94RX-7

iTrader: (5)

The bearing has enough play to wiggle the input shaft a little bit, so if it wiggles some do you think there is a chance icould wiggle it out with the bearing still on? That bearing just is not coming off, but I bet it could be pressed off if the shaft could come out. The two local transmission shops say they cant do it.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

I don't believe it's possible. I tried very hard to disassemble the case in an alternate order and there just isn't a way I could find. That bearing was the reason. You can grind/cut the bearing apart within the housing (you can tear out the bearing cage, then groove the inner and outer races in one spot so that the ***** can be rotated around and passed through at the grooves) but it will take a long time and make a big mess. Generally in transmission work if you're making a mess you're doing something wrong.

Now that I've built a sufficiently sturdy tool I have not had any problem with this.

Dave

tom94RX-7

iTrader: (5)

The bearing is just on the shaft so damn tight its ridiculous. The bearing comes out of the trans enough to get the jaws in behind the bearing after I grind them down till they are about 1/8" thick, then I tried pulling it off the shaft and the jaw actually snapped off, and the little piece fell into the trans so now I have to get that little piece out after I find it. I guess I will have to go to my dads tomorrow and try heating up the bearing again with his torch and use my new technique to pull the bearing. thanks

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Like I said before, I have a nice setup that really grabs the outer snap ring and can pull hard. It works much better than anything else I've used.

Now that you have the bearing moved out a bit, can you get a large bearing splitter under the snap ring? That makes the job easy. It's the first 5mm that's really hard.

Another thought I just had: you could remove enough bearing to cut a groove in the inner race. Just go down deep enough to get a cold chisel in the groove and give it a few whacks with a steel hammer. The shock should crack the through-hardened inner race and it will pull off much more easily.

Dave

tom94RX-7

iTrader: (5)

I was using a somewhat decent way to hold the jaws tight against the clip, at it gets so tight that the clip bends and the jaws come off. What is a bearing splitter? The next option, what I should do is take apart the whole trans to replace the 5th gear synchro and possibly the rear bearing if its bad and the middle bearing, and cut the bearing apart or something to get the shaft out and then have the bearing pressed off the shaft. Thanks

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Are the jaws shaped properly, such that it presses on the ring right at the outside of the bearing race? I needed to grind the jaws of my puller some to get that contact. You may need to remove the snap ring and reshape it some to get it to stay seated. It's also important that the jaws are just wide enough to not allow the snap ring to expand out of the groove.

If you have access to a welder, try welding the snap ring to the outer race so it can't come apart.

Again, I have fought this little war before. The path of least resistance is to get that front bearing pulled. Leave the rest of the trans alone unless you really need to.

tom94RX-7

iTrader: (5)

Yes, I tried everything, I made sure the jaws had a sharp contact on the ring (grinded them also) and where compressed all the way in, I also made sure the jaws could not twist inside the housing. I didn't try again with the heat..

Instead I took apart the whole tranny following your instructions, thank you very much again for that. I was able to pull the input shaft out of the tranny housing WITH the bearing still attached, I just had to pry the bearing all the way out of the tranny housing and then it all came apart and I was able to get the shaft out, after removing everything else in the steps prior to the step of removing the input shaft. It then took me some time to figure out how exactly to pull the other shafts out, it was easy but I didn't realize how to do it at first.

All the other bearings came out very easily with my gear puller and my device to hold the jaws tight against the bearing. Then I just took the input shaft down to a garage and got the bearing pressed off the shaft. My main shaft pilot bearing inside the tranny housing is in real bad shape, like worse than the one you have pictured, this is probably the bearing that was making my tranny very loud. So now I just have to order this bearing and a new 5th gear synchro that was in 3 pieces. All the other bearings pulled off with slight resistance and seem in good shape so I don't think it is needed to replace them.

Thanks again.

tom94RX-7

iTrader: (5)

Hey I had two little ***** fall out along the way and I dont know where they came from. One is a real small ball, smaller than all the others with the springs, I have all those accounted for. The other one is a rectangle shaped ball, round on the ends, not sure what you call it haha. I didnt see these two mentioned in the instructions unless I missed it. Do you know where these two ***** go? I got a new pilot bearing and main shaft pilot bearing and 5th gear synchro coming in tomorrow so I will be putting it all back together then, along with the new clutch. Thanks

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Those little pieces sound like parts to the shifter interlock mechanism.

The internal roller bearing you're talking about runs directly between the mainshaft nose and input shaft. How are those surfaces? If the bearing is spalled heavily, I would expect to see the shaft races in similar condition.

Glad you got it apart. It sounds like you got that big bearing moved out just enough that you could manipulate the input shaft more than I could when I tried that.