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The Importance Of Proper Torquing Of Fasteners

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Old Dec 22, 2011 | 10:22 PM
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From: In A Disfunctional World
The Importance Of Proper Torquing Of Fasteners

How many times have you read about owners breaking off the small bolts that hold the TB elbow to the TB, or the bolts/nuts for the UIM to LIM?
Normally happens when tightening the fasteners.

Well today I experienced a new type of failure caused by some idiot.
We were removing a a good engine from a totaled FD. The oil line on the front housing loosen and came off easily.
The rear oil line that attaches to the oil filter pedestal was tighter. In fact instead of it coming loose, the top of the pedestal broke off with the line.
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Old Dec 22, 2011 | 11:08 PM
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Doh!!!
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Old Dec 22, 2011 | 11:12 PM
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yeah as the cars get older the fasteners can't take so much torque... sometimes bolts will break when you try to torque them to actual shop manual specs
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Old Dec 22, 2011 | 11:20 PM
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I changed the majority of my bolts with SS hardware after this
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Old Dec 23, 2011 | 12:34 AM
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^^ that looks nasty but at least you still have some room, I think atkins sells those long bolts $9 each.
I remember when a bolt snapped on me when replacing the thermostat, ended up replacing the whole assembly, replaced all three bolts afterwards.
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Old Dec 23, 2011 | 08:22 AM
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Wow, that's a surgically clean cut on that bolt.
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Old Dec 23, 2011 | 09:15 AM
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I have been trying to find replacement hardware online for a few weeks now. I do not want the kit that Hinson sells because it used allen type heads. Anyone have a place to find stainless steel flanged hex head bolts?
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Old Dec 23, 2011 | 11:33 AM
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It is a good pratice to lubricate all fasteners that attach to aluminum with some type of antiseize. Aluminum and iron/steel tend to want to oxidize together. That also includes aluminum wheels to the steel hubs. I have seen wheels that were hard as hell to get loose from their hubs. Happens when the wheels are on a long time before removing, or from northern states where a lot of salt is used. Even is the car is not driven in winter.

Any fasteners near water should also be lubricated to prevent rusting. Those around the water pump are very funerable to water vapor even if there is no water leaks there.
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Old Dec 23, 2011 | 11:35 AM
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From: In A Disfunctional World
Originally Posted by arghx
yeah as the cars get older the fasteners can't take so much torque... sometimes bolts will break when you try to torque them to actual shop manual specs

Over the years the stretching of the metals weakens them.

FYI, the FD that had the problem was a lower mileage 95.
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Old Dec 23, 2011 | 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by ksu-chewie
I have been trying to find replacement hardware online for a few weeks now. I do not want the kit that Hinson sells because it used allen type heads. Anyone have a place to find stainless steel flanged hex head bolts?
This is where I got all my Stainless Steel hardware. http://www.allensfasteners.com/searc...rchParamCat=84
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Old Dec 23, 2011 | 08:40 PM
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Or you can use mcmaster carr. It has EVERYTHING for everything.
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Old Dec 23, 2011 | 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by cewrx7r1
It is a good pratice to lubricate all fasteners that attach to aluminum with some type of antiseize. Aluminum and iron/steel tend to want to oxidize together. That also includes aluminum wheels to the steel hubs. I have seen wheels that were hard as hell to get loose from their hubs. Happens when the wheels are on a long time before removing, or from northern states where a lot of salt is used. Even is the car is not driven in winter.

Any fasteners near water should also be lubricated to prevent rusting. Those around the water pump are very funerable to water vapor even if there is no water leaks there.
I've had my fair share of @*!@$!@!$&%#^$@ fastners that break of because of oxidation. I put antiseize on everything that doesn't need locktite! I always keep a tube on hand!
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