Ston3dSnip3r

Ok well its kinda a big problem.

I own a 93 FD and have a little bit of money to throw around so i have been trying to do this build right. First here are the mods.

Power FC
GT35r single turbo kit
Vmount Radiator and Intercooler
3 inch everything (manifold/IC piping/exhaust)
Divorced Wastegate Tial 44mm
Racing Wires
Okada Projects Plasma Booster
NGK 9s
Turbo Timer
Extreme Fuel system w/ DeatschWerks 300lph pump custom fuel rails 860cc and 1600cc injectors
Urethane motor mounts
Dyno tuned by Bryan a little on the fat side 14.9 psi @340 to the wheel on a mustang dyno.

ENGINE has about 800 miles with a mild streetport cooling mod in the jackets and 2mm ceramic 2 piece seals built by Bryan at ROTORSPORTS RACING in NC.

This is how it happened. Was running beautifully not overheating i always monitor the power FC i backed in as usual took my key out let the turbo timer run for 30 secs and the car turned off.. well 3 hours later i go back outside to crank it and she is running on one rotor.. WTF.

I have normal fuel pressure 40 psi steady my vacuum gauge is steady at -12 dont hear any pinging under the hood while the motor is running like last time i blew two rear seals.. I have checked for spark on both trailing coils and the leading coil.. i just dont know where else to look im really upset i just dropped like 12 grand on this ENGINE ALONE and now this..

I noticed on the way home my knock sensor was going off on the PFC more than normal jumping from the first notch up to like the 4th one back and forth while getting into boost.. i called him immediately and he said he usually turns the knock sensor off because it gives false readings.. i hope i wasnt thrown for a loop he said he will try to work with me... im just so frustrated.

if you want to hear the car run i made a video and if a moderator says its ok ill post the youtube link. Thanks guys for any tips or help you can throw my way it would be more than appreciated.

-jamie

vrx8

iTrader: (18)

Check your plugs, check if you are getting fuel on both rotors.

vrx8

iTrader: (18)

Off topic but can you post a pic of your 3inch turbo manifold

Ston3dSnip3r

sure give me a bit ill take the best pics i can.. and im not totally sure im getting fuel to both rotors.. if i had to make an educated guess i would say yes because one rotor has to be firing to run.. and i can smell the unspent fuel comming out of the exhaust..

Ston3dSnip3r

Ston3dSnip3r

sorry it was difficult to get a good shot..

Ston3dSnip3r

here is a vid i took if you wana hear it run..

www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q47mBXVWX3Y

When i was sitting in the car i said the fuel pressure gauge when i meant oil pressure opps i had just woke

jamespond24

iTrader: (13)

Look like stuck injectors or fouled spark plug

Ston3dSnip3r

this run was on all new NGK BUR9EQs

RotaryRX-007

Stuck injector is a good possibility. Did you change the spark plugs before or after it started running like poo? Pull each leading and look at them. My guess is one will be wet with fuel. If so, that rotor is flooded and you need to either pull the injectors and send them out to be serviced or take the car back to Rotorsports and let Bryan deal with it.

Ston3dSnip3r

ive only had the car for about 10 months i got it bone stock with 79,000 miles.. so all of the mods on this car are brand new but i guess that really doesnt make a difference **** just breaks whenever.. so if im getting spark all around and i know im at least getting fuel to each rotor the next place i need to look is injectors?

Ston3dSnip3r

hhmm as a matter of fact, when i popped the factory seals it took about 3 months total of it sitting waiting on transport, for bryan to break it down rebuild it and start it. when it first started running it was rough, i asked him did he ever drain the fuel and he said no. so they did that put some high octane in and it was fine... i guess he didnt know how long it was sitting and didnt think about it which is understandable i guess.. so maybe it could be gunk trapped in my system..

JDK

iTrader: (8)

Compression test would be my next step, i would take a guess and say stuck or cracked seal

XLR8

iTrader: (52)

Compression test first. If all checks out, then look at the essentials...

Fuel - I have had a stuck injector, the car flooded immediately when I turned the key as the pump primed. Take a battery, attach two leads to it. Pull off the injector plugs and give each injector a pos & neg voltage to the tabs. Polarity doesn't matter, so either way is fine. You should hear the injector snap open. Do this a few times to each injector to ensure they are opening and closing.

You can also trace the continuity of each injector wire back to the ECU. Ensure that there is good connectivity on each of the 4 pins to each injector. Once the ground connectivity is established, double check the other wire for voltage.

Spark - You can test each of the plug wires with a timing light to ensure it is firing.

Running - A digital laser thermometer works very well with this. You should be able to shoot it at each rotor housing and see the temperatures. If one is considerably higher/lower in temps than the other, then you have an issue with fuel or spark.

1QWIK7

iTrader: (33)

Does the PFC display oil pressure? If so, whats the reading on that?

Dont go by the stock oil/water temp gauges, those are very inaccurate.

Sounds like a bad coil if you ask me. But then again you were able to rev it and it revved pretty smooth. Im thinking a seal issue but im no engine builder.

Compression test is the best way just to get that out of the way.

jbust

iTrader: (16)

sounds familiar, i had the same exact problem 6 months ago and the culprit was my HKS twin power. but like what the others said check for compression first. when you verify that you have a good compression please check your wiring for the coils. hope this helps.

Ston3dSnip3r

im getting a compression tester asap ill post the results i guess if it fails ill send it back to bryan if not i mean i dont wana pay to have it shipped back if its something simple that would be a serious waste of money.. i seriously gotta find a new dd

Ston3dSnip3r

When i was changing the plugs after it first happened for ***** and gigs i took both the leading plugs out then pulled the EGI fuse and turned her over and the wooshes sounded clean and even all 6 of them but i know that isnt a very good way to tell just didnt have a compression tester on hand..

Ston3dSnip3r

Just did a compression test.. bought a cheap 35 dollar tester from advanced.. used a tire stem remover and removed the valve off the end and both rotors are even pushing 75-90 psi each.. i know it isnt an accurate reading but its enough to take the heavy weight off my shoulders worrying about another complete rebuild.. so i guess im gonna have my tech look at my primary injectors..

If anybody else has any suggestions they would be greatly appreciated. Thnx!

RX7WEEE

iTrader: (16)

Maybe you had a coil pack die on you? Have you checked for good spark on all the plugs? Something easy to try at least.

BTW your car is a 94 unless someone swapped the entire dash out.

Ston3dSnip3r

haha ur right i keep forgetting. and i tested one of the leading and both of the trailing wires and that okada projects makes for an impressive show especially when ur buddy is the one holding the wires and he got shocked all three times lmao he said the spark was jumping 3 or 4 inches away touching the strut bar. seems like we are good on spark..

Ston3dSnip3r

I Just let the car idle and hit it with carb cleaner around the lower intake, upper intake, around my injectors, around my map sensor, in the back behind the manifold.. and i didnt notice any consistent changes in idle.. but the more i look at the wiring job for these injectors the more i scratch my head.. i see a couple of things unplugged and im not sure if they need to be plugged in.. thinkin about postin some pics of it..

RotaryRX-007

Good. At least we know you have spark.

Did you pull the leading plugs to see if one or the other is wet with fuel? Do it. Wet one will be the rotor that is flooded and that will let you know which rotor has the bad injector.

jbust

iTrader: (16)

Is there a way you can bypass the okada plasma booster and reconnect your OEM connections to your coils? If so, please try that first, I did the same test you were doing and I was getting good spark. But when I installed back the original connection and removed the twin power, the car went back to normal. I hope that amplifier you got installed has a plug n play harness, it will make a lot of things easier. On the video I noticed that your coil pack are still in its original location, just removed the compression tube to get access down there and hopefully you can try what I want you to do at least.

p.s. like what I said I had the same problem what you have and that video made it easier for me to identify it, I hope that would solve your it. Goodluck

Ston3dSnip3r

Disconnected the taps for the okada and actually get a little bit better of a shitty idle.. still the same problem. Noticed gasoline dripping from my wastegate so there is definitely enough gas in the engine.. i guess the only thing left is the primary injector(s) and if that doesnt fix it.. the mystery problem wins.