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I'm f**ked. rounded turbo bolt. Please help!

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Old 01-28-11, 05:08 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Meiogirl
I got these and never looked back. If you can get a socket in there, this will fit too. The set I got was $50.00

http://www.mysears.com/Craftsman-10-...lt-Out-reviews
+2 on this... these things work awsome!!
Old 01-28-11, 05:31 PM
  #27  
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Get the Craftsman stripped bolt sockets. I have them and they are golden.

You don't use them often.... but when you do... make it a Dos Equis
Old 01-28-11, 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by floatyghosthat
I would like to know more about this...

The only reason I'm taking the manifold off is to stop boost creep. I plan on pulling the motor next year to do a rebuild. If I could just leave the motor in, and the turbos on until then, it would solve A LOT of problems for me.

I'm still using the factory lines, but I'm planning on going to the simplified set-up with hose techniques before spring.

It's stock lines, stock turbos and stock motor with a Power FC right now. I have an HKS downpipe, resonated midpipe and KS cat-back to put in. Pretty much a straight through exhaust.

As far as I can tell, there is nothing stopping me from putting the other bolts back on the manifold, putting everything back the way it was, and dealing with the rounded nut when I pull the motor next year.

Any more information on this type of boost spike control would be hugely, graciously appreciated...
The stock lines have restrictor pills in them. Replace the lines and lose the pills. That and a good boost controller should *help* boost creep. May not solve all cases. Do that.

And, if it doesn't work port the wastegate. If that doesn't work upgrade your fuel system. If that doesn't work go single turbo.
Old 01-28-11, 08:27 PM
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Haha,

I hope it doesn`t go that far. Well, I kind of hope it does.

Anyway, can anyone give me any sort of idea how much boost it might creep to? I plan on tuning for at least 12 psi (I'm running water injection too). Does it creep a lot higher?

Also, should I remove the pill entirely? I've read to just hollow it out a bit. What exactly does that pill do?
Old 01-28-11, 08:36 PM
  #30  
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Boost creep is slow enough that if you're paying attention you can stop it. It happens gradually at high loads and high in the revs. All you have to do is let off.

There's no telling what boost could spike to if you don't address your boost control situation and throw on a straight pipe.

Get a boost controller and run new lines. The restrictor pills restrict the boost pressure that the wastegate sees. It's factory boost control. WG set at 7psi and pills restricting vacuum to 10psi. You don't want to restrict an electronic boost controller, you want to be able to set it accurately.
Old 01-29-11, 02:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Barban
Boost creep is slow enough that if you're paying attention you can stop it. It happens gradually at high loads and high in the revs. All you have to do is let off.

There's no telling what boost could spike to if you don't address your boost control situation and throw on a straight pipe.

Get a boost controller and run new lines. The restrictor pills restrict the boost pressure that the wastegate sees. It's factory boost control. WG set at 7psi and pills restricting vacuum to 10psi. You don't want to restrict an electronic boost controller, you want to be able to set it accurately.
Alright. I'll definitely look into that. I was under the impression that my Power FC is serving as a boost controller. Is that incorrect? I know I am able to alter settings in regards to boost, but to be honest, I haven't really looked too much into it.

I'm hoping to at least have the car together before getting into the tuning aspect of it.
Old 01-29-11, 03:51 AM
  #32  
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You can use the PFC as a boost controller. A lot of people do. I ran a profec S and it worked well. Also ran a manual controller. It worked fine. Definitely replace the lines though. There are multiple good threads about how best to plumb your system.
Old 01-29-11, 07:56 AM
  #33  
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I think I did this before and what I ended up doing was cutting the heat shield on the manifold and remove the turbos with the manifold attached.
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