I'm f**ked. rounded turbo bolt. Please help!
 

Hey guys....

In the process of trying to get my turbos off to port the wastegate, I've had a hell of a time dealing with one of the nuts. The rest of them came off fine, but one wouldn't budge. I soaked it in PB blaster everyday, and managed to get a decent angle with the socket to put some pressure on it. It didn't budge, and instead rounded the hell out of the nut.

Now I've got turbos on the engine, still in the car, being held in by one rounded nut, and it's the most inaccessible nut on the car. I can't get anything at it from the side, it pretty much needs to be straight on, and even then it's a very tight squeeze.

Does anyone have any advice on what the hell I can do?

I feel for you bro.. That nut will never come off that stud. I would try and get a sharp edge chisel and bang between the cast and the nut hopefully the stud will brake off. But thats a damn tight spot

man..I hate to say it but that may require you to lift the engine...they make wrenches that grab rounded bolts but that spot is pretty damn tight.

Yeah, that's kind of what I'm thinking... I can't fit a dremel in there, or a hack saw or anything. A chisel is pretty much my only option.

I really don't want to pull the engine. On the plus side, I'm so screwed that that wouldn't even help.

The problem is that there`s no space on either side of the nut to get a wrench on it even if I do pull the engine... It would make things easier though. Damnit.

I hear ya, just thought maybe you could get better leverage, attack another angle, etc.

the problem is you are using a 12point chrome socket. what you need is a 6point hardened impact socket. also make sure the ratchet isn't trying to break the angle which is what usually causes rounded off nuts, hold the ratchet head with your other hand giving it opposite force to keep it even. it will be even more difficult now that it is semi stripped.

time to bust out the dremel

edit: didnt read before

can you get a straight drill bit on it from the bottom?

Sorry to say, but you're going to have to pull the motor to get at it.

If you're porting the wastegate because of boost creep you could bolt the turbos back up and run a restricter in the exhaust as a temporary fix.

Good luck!

I agree, a 6 point socket is a great place to start. I can typically get on that one with a deepwell 14mm socket.

Looks like your car is also RHD and I'm sure the steering column is in the way. Not sure if removing that somehow would give you more room.

The other thing that could be worth trying is heating it up with a torch, but again room might be an issue.

If all else fails, a motor pull would be the way to go. While it sounds like a massive pain in the ass, you can get a motor out in around 2-3 hours. Really doesn't take as long as you'd think.

Dale

Dale

Thanks guys,

I was using a 6 point set. I tried to keep it as straight on as possible, but it`s tough to do when putting a lot of pressure on it.

Is the stud able to be pulled out of the block? If so, then I might be able to use a dremel and carve a slit in the end of the stud and screw the whole thing out...

Plan b: pull the engine...

+1 on heating it with a torch if you can do it without setting your car on fire, I've done that in the past with stubborn exhaust bolts with good success.
The stud is screwed into the block so it can be replaced if you damage it.
I would also recommend a breaker bar like this to get some leverage:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...5&blockType=G5

Just add heat! Put a torch on it. If you can still get traction on it, she'll break loose.

If i understand the situation right.....gator grip/ grip tite sockets could possibly do the job.

Be careful with a torch and all that PB blaster, ask me how I know :)

I got these and never looked back. If you can get a socket in there, this will fit too. The set I got was $50.00

http://www.mysears.com/Craftsman-10-...lt-Out-reviews

Not sure if you have the space. But if the nut is shot, try a coal chisel and a hammer. Dig yourself a lip to spin it anti clockwise. Has worked well in the past when I cant find and vice grips.

+1

Another suggestion: Get AeroKroil from Kano products. It puts PB Blaster to shame.

if the whole issue is to control boost creep it may not be necessary to even remove the turbos if the car still has the stock boost lines to the wastegate. remove the line from the wastegate to the rats nest over by the primary turbo inlet and look inside the hose for a restrictor pill. if it's there remove it and drill it out slightly larger and reinstall it, that should bring your boost level back down without the need of porting the wastegate.

Try Kroil, far better than PB blaster as mentioned above. You might be able to get to it with a dremel "snake." If you can cut a slit in it with an abrasive wheel it will help the Kroil get to the threads.

A mini-torch might be safer if you have one.

+1 here!

Keep in mind it's not the rust that is keeping that sucker on...that nut is a factory luck nut. Look closely at one and you will see that the outer lip is crimped. They are not designed to come off easily and often, when I can manage to get them off they gall immediately and take all the stud threads off with them...either that or I snap the stud off.

Some other possibilities to reinforce what others have said.

A dremel by itself might be difficult but a dremel with the flexible shaft extension might work.

The cold chisel is also a good bet. Get a lip into the nut and hammer the nut in the counterclockwise direction.

Heat *may* work but it will be difficult to get the heat localized and without damaging something in the surrounding area....of god forbid, catching something on fire.

Me personally...I'd try the chisel first.
Good luck,
Crispy

PS Option 3 would be just bolt it back up and leave it the f*ck alone...until such a time as you AHVE to pull the motor.

snapon makes socket that has an eazy out type ridge in the inside. you can fit them in anyplace you can fit a socket. dont know if it has a name. socketeazyout? it takes up way less space than the sears tool that was posted earler.

LOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:lol:

I would like to know more about this...

The only reason I'm taking the manifold off is to stop boost creep. I plan on pulling the motor next year to do a rebuild. If I could just leave the motor in, and the turbos on until then, it would solve A LOT of problems for me.

I'm still using the factory lines, but I'm planning on going to the simplified set-up with hose techniques before spring.

It's stock lines, stock turbos and stock motor with a Power FC right now. I have an HKS downpipe, resonated midpipe and KS cat-back to put in. Pretty much a straight through exhaust.

As far as I can tell, there is nothing stopping me from putting the other bolts back on the manifold, putting everything back the way it was, and dealing with the rounded nut when I pull the motor next year.

Any more information on this type of boost spike control would be hugely, graciously appreciated...