eyecandy

iTrader: (19)

I am having a problem with my idle, once the engine is fully warmed the the idle flutters/stumbles in the 500 or below area and dies. During the warm up all is fine I am pulling about 15 inhg in the 1-1100 rpm range, then when it gets closer to fully warmed and drops to around 850 it is still 15 inhg, but when its fully wamred and is stumbling its about 10 inhg. It revs fine and pulls 17-19 inhg.

I pulled the engine to conduct the following, before I pulled it the car ran perfect (aside from the 3k hestiation) Here is what was done when the engine was removed:
-Replaced front cover gasket and oil pan resealed (main reason for pulling)
-Cleaned injectors w/new grommets/o-rings etc and new FPD.
-All new gaskets, o-rings, seals on the entire block except for LIM and turbo manifold (did not remove these).
-Silicon hose job w/simplified sequential (removed egr, aws, dt, acv) plus the viton check valves and installed resistors.
-SS MOP lines
-FEED grounded spark plug wires (grounded to the coil tray)
-New spark plugs
-96+ y and crossover pipes
-Full exhuast (DP, MP, CB)

**I installed the stock ecu just to be sure it was running right and to hopefully cross out a potential problem, I have a PFC ready to be installed.

When it was removed, I did notice alot of carbon build up inside the engine, I have two cans of BG 44K waiting to go in along with some new fuel as soon as I burn off some of the old (been in there from Dec). Now I get a decent amount of smoke at start up.

I also noticed two black single connectors (similar to the ones for the A/C and airpump and oil pressure), one male and one female on the drivers side harness, I assume these get pluged together, what are they for? The one male is on the engine harness and wires into a lareger loom right behind the alternator, and the female wiresinto the battery/drivers side harness.

I ran the ecu error codes and there were the three for the ACV (#'s 30,33,39), but I had just placed resistors in them and now they are gone.

eyecandy

iTrader: (19)

Also the last time I had it running and it was stumbling I disconnected teh ISC and it died immediatly, so that pretty much means the ISC is functioning properly.

I was thinking about this as well, since my car did not smoke at start up other than a quick puff like most cars, could installing the thermal pellet cause some extra oil burning at start up since the e-shaft is getting full flow during the warm up? The engien has about 20K on it, not to say that the engine cannot go that soon, but it could be a possiblity, has anyone else noticed anything like this? I am guessing it is burning oil because of how it looks, but it does not smell like oil, just alot of fuel and raw non-emission equiped exhaust.

tcb100

For what it's worth, when you disconnect your idle speed control your motor should not die. It ought to hunt - 2,000 to 2,800 rpms, up and down, up and down.

eyecandy

iTrader: (19)

I thought I read some where in the manual that once its disconnected it will die. Let me see if I can find it.

eyecandy

iTrader: (19)

This morning I decided to mess with the two idle adjustment screws to see if that would raise the idle, low and behold my idle is smooth in the 800-850, I may go back and adjust it down to 750-800. The engine just sounded smoother at 800-850 so I think I will leave it at that.

I took it out for a quick drive, my god I miss driving it already and wish I could have cruised longer. I had to cut it short due to smoke from under the hood, yes my turbos are still smoking, I cannot see it still being oils/greases/lubricatants from handling them, it should have burned off by now. It seems to be coming more from the rear turbo. So I just need to pinpoint if its the oil or coolant lines, I think its from the top side of the turbos. If I remove them I think I am going to go with a non seq setup.

During the drive I went into medium load and heard loud noise (sounded like a hose blowing off or BOV) I still have the OE bovs around the 6k-6.5k area. Looked at the engine bay quickly and verything seem secure, most importantly it stil drove and idled fine. Would fuel cut make such a noise? I am postive I did not hit over 10psi during the short burst. I will haev ponder alittle more.

technonovice

Not unless its stuck open. The ISC is not able to lower static idle. It can only raise it.