Idle Speed Control Valve delete
#1
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Idle Speed Control Valve delete
What happens if you delete the ISC?
I purchased the Banzai block off plate kit and decided to delete the ISC valve, although I know it's not necessary, I just did it because I somehow over torqued and cracked the valve in half.
So I installed the block off plate, adjusted the idle and the car ran and idled great. After some 20 minutes, my idle dropped and the car could barely keep itself alive. Soon after, It wouldn't idle on its own at all and wouldn't start. It refused to start and I guess it flooded.
I took stuff apart and deflooded it, it started right up, I adjusted the idle and was good to go again. After driving for some 15-20 mins the idle randomly shot up to 2000 and now it won't drop.
I'll look into the problem tomorrow again but would appreciate any input on the matter.
Here's a list of what I've deleted: Double throttle, ACV, ACV tube, Split air pipe, EGR, AWS, AWS tube, ISC.
I purchased the Banzai block off plate kit and decided to delete the ISC valve, although I know it's not necessary, I just did it because I somehow over torqued and cracked the valve in half.
So I installed the block off plate, adjusted the idle and the car ran and idled great. After some 20 minutes, my idle dropped and the car could barely keep itself alive. Soon after, It wouldn't idle on its own at all and wouldn't start. It refused to start and I guess it flooded.
I took stuff apart and deflooded it, it started right up, I adjusted the idle and was good to go again. After driving for some 15-20 mins the idle randomly shot up to 2000 and now it won't drop.
I'll look into the problem tomorrow again but would appreciate any input on the matter.
Here's a list of what I've deleted: Double throttle, ACV, ACV tube, Split air pipe, EGR, AWS, AWS tube, ISC.
#4
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Without the ISC, the only air automatic air flow adjuster is the hot wax rod.
(1) Get the engine fully warmed up and idling decently.
(2) Fine tune the idle air flow for best that you can get.
(3) Adjust hot wax rod for needed air flow on a cold start.
The following is only if you have a PFC.
With no ISC, you might as well set all three PFC idle speeds to zero.
This now allows you to actually change the idle area timing for the BEST POSSIBLE idle.
(3) On a cold engine start, the hot wax rod unit will increase the idle speed until the coolant flow through the throttle body warms it up at which point it should disconnect. You might have to adjust it to give or remove rpms.
(4) After adjusting3, do the next cold start Settings2 Water Temp Correction.
(1) Get the engine fully warmed up and idling decently.
(2) Fine tune the idle air flow for best that you can get.
(3) Adjust hot wax rod for needed air flow on a cold start.
The following is only if you have a PFC.
With no ISC, you might as well set all three PFC idle speeds to zero.
This now allows you to actually change the idle area timing for the BEST POSSIBLE idle.
(3) On a cold engine start, the hot wax rod unit will increase the idle speed until the coolant flow through the throttle body warms it up at which point it should disconnect. You might have to adjust it to give or remove rpms.
(4) After adjusting3, do the next cold start Settings2 Water Temp Correction.
Last edited by cewrx7r1; 11-09-16 at 11:29 PM.