Idle jumps for 30sec then holds at every stop.
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Joined: Oct 2001
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From: My 350Z Roadster kicks my RX7's butt
Well I couldn't get smog tested cause my car started to freak out. All of a sudden as soon as I got there the idle went to 3k and then it started jumping. He tried to test it but the computer couldn't get a reading. I had to drive it home and mess with it. I found a hose from the oil filler neck to manifold popped off and put that back on which brought the high idle down but still jumping. I tried my stock ecu but since I cut the wires the check engine light was on but it seemed to hold idle steady. I put back the PFC and it jumps for 30 sec at every stop then holds idle. What the heck is up with that?
i dont get it. does your idle jump up and hold? or does it bounce up and down.
what rpm does your idle bounce to and where does it hold at?
does it always do this, even after the car is warm?
what rpm does your idle bounce to and where does it hold at?
does it always do this, even after the car is warm?
Last edited by Enconsiderate; Oct 1, 2004 at 09:34 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2001
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From: My 350Z Roadster kicks my RX7's butt
This is something new after installing the air pump and running alcohol. When the car is first started the idle jumps 1k to 2k and does this 25x (about 30 sec) and then it settles correctly at 800rpm's. I was thinking maybe it's loosing it's memmory from my dead battery and it has to relearn at every start but it does this at every stop (with ignition still on). I am really nervous on my new engine. All this stuff is freakin me out! I had a water hose pop off and temps jumped to 105C yesterday. Today I saw white smoke from the exhaust for about a min and I almost **** my pance!!! One of the times I jump started her, I heard a pop and freaked out thinking it was a ping. It was right after that the idle got f'd up and I can't trace it. I pulled out the idle control valave but nothing is jammed in there. If the OEM ECU holds a steady idle then I can only assume it's PFC related.
first off CALM DOWN. i went through the same anxiety when i had my motor replaced. it seemd like with every little noise i thought my motor had to get replaced.
second do a search for bouncing idle.
it maybe an issue with your clutch sensor thingy. i had the same problem for a little while but kinda went away. here is the help i got from someone else who had the same prob. and got it fixed
"I replaced the clutch switch (part# LA01-66-490A). It's a $10- $15 part, it sits at the very top of the clutch pedal. Go under the column in your car, push the clutch with your hand. There should be a white plastic switch that comes out of the medal switch, it should come out about half an inch. If it doesn't come out that far, or doesn't come out at all...it's bad. Hope that helps!"
another solution is call jeff @ rotary power. I called him and he told me to take off my elbow pipe going to the tb and look for something, but i forgot exactly what it was. hes a good guy and gives really good advise.
this may all be coincidental. i hope its not all related. oh and just for good measure check your map sensor... just in case.
good luck
ian
second do a search for bouncing idle.
it maybe an issue with your clutch sensor thingy. i had the same problem for a little while but kinda went away. here is the help i got from someone else who had the same prob. and got it fixed
"I replaced the clutch switch (part# LA01-66-490A). It's a $10- $15 part, it sits at the very top of the clutch pedal. Go under the column in your car, push the clutch with your hand. There should be a white plastic switch that comes out of the medal switch, it should come out about half an inch. If it doesn't come out that far, or doesn't come out at all...it's bad. Hope that helps!"
another solution is call jeff @ rotary power. I called him and he told me to take off my elbow pipe going to the tb and look for something, but i forgot exactly what it was. hes a good guy and gives really good advise.
this may all be coincidental. i hope its not all related. oh and just for good measure check your map sensor... just in case.
good luck
ian
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 4,772
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From: My 350Z Roadster kicks my RX7's butt
The idle adjustment under the elbow does not fix the jumping idle. I will double check the map sensor and zip tie it and read the manual section for TPS tomorrow. From the threads I read it could be the TPS.
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Thread Starter
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From: My 350Z Roadster kicks my RX7's butt
wow, this could have been something stupid. Taking a break now but will know for sure later. I went throught he manual and one of the possibles was the plugs, so I changed them with 8's/10's Iridiums. Well one of the Magnacore wires didn't snap when pushed on. I looked at it and never saw the metal cup. I started to but back my Vitek wires and even though the lengths suck and they don't have two strait plugs like stock, the boosts have something like a rubber heat shrink which makes me really appreciate them since the Magacore boots tore and as it turns out I had pulled the boot too hard and the metal cup slid behind the boot and I just had to push the wire back inside the boot again.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2001
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From: My 350Z Roadster kicks my RX7's butt
^ lol, prolly in one of my folders.
Clutch switch is ok, it pops out fine. Atila tried to rotate the TPS while I watched the RPM's but it seemed to do nothing. I found out like most everyone else I looked at the diagram reversed/mirrored and cut the wrong wires for the PFC. I should have know everything translated from Japanese is backwards (they read right to left). I haven't been able to rotate it since cause I can't fit anything to turn the screw. So now i'm at over 2k rpm's and it won't go any lower. Both idle adjustment screws are turned all the way to the right. It looks like I may have to buy a new one.
Clutch switch is ok, it pops out fine. Atila tried to rotate the TPS while I watched the RPM's but it seemed to do nothing. I found out like most everyone else I looked at the diagram reversed/mirrored and cut the wrong wires for the PFC. I should have know everything translated from Japanese is backwards (they read right to left). I haven't been able to rotate it since cause I can't fit anything to turn the screw. So now i'm at over 2k rpm's and it won't go any lower. Both idle adjustment screws are turned all the way to the right. It looks like I may have to buy a new one.
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