i plan on it. $600-$900 plus a dyno tune is not exactly easy to come by. i just needed a temporary fix.

much appreciated

 

just to clairify, is the screw i adjust the one that goes on the bottom of this throtle body(right under the right threaded bolt and above what looks like a coolant line)

 

So, if the pressure is under 10psi, or not over, there is no problem running a midtpipe on the stock ecu? I have ported my wg and are running dp and catback. But would also like to put on my midtpipe while I`m waiting on my PFC....?


Thank`s...

 

right here

 

you can if your wastegate is ported. just make sure you keep the boost at 10psi or less. i assume you already have a boost controler...so your most likely set.

another downside of running a midpipe on the twins is the raspy sound you get from adding it. there are very few exhausts that sound decent when adding a midpipe. i took a big chance when adding my midpipe with a racing beat catback. it sounds amazing though! i couldnt have been any happier.
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Smitter: i figured that was where it was. you have been alot of help to me. thx again

 

both the screw mahjik circled and the screw smitter113fd circled are idle adjustments. the one on top adjusts the butterflies which can effect the TPS voltage readings. the one on bottom is for fine tuning the idle, and is and idle air adjustment screw.

When i removed my airpump my idle was fine and neither needed adjusted. 1100- 1200 rpms is a bit high i think. 900-1000 should be fine on a stock engine.

 

sometimes it idols fine at around 1000rpms but sometimes it falls to 500-800rpms(which is fine for a stock engine). but in that rpm range it sounds choppy and annoying. someone said it does this cause of how rich its running. that would make sense...

 

i started the car a few min ago to change the idol only to finally realize that my lumpy idol is prob due to an exhaust leak. where the downpipe meets the midpipe there is a good bit of air rushing out. the gasket must not have matched up very well.

 

ppe

As happens sometimes, these two suggestions seem to contradict each other. Anyone feel like taking a stab at trying to explain the difference and the rational for doing one over the other?

 

The 2 statements that u quoted are saying the same thing. adjust the horizontal screw not the vertical one. that is the best way to adjust the idle. the vertical screw just mechanically opens the throttle plates.

 

Wow. I read RotorDream exactly the opposite. Also Mahjik seemed to recommend adjusting the throttle limit screw as well.

 

So is there a clarification on which screw? And 4CN A1R am I to understand that the restrictor plate in your exhaust is helping maintain the stock 10 psi boost level?

 

adjusting the throttle limit screw will adjust the idle, but its not the correct way. that screw is set from the factory, and the preferred way is the horizontal idle air screw underneath the elbow

 

no. the rictrictor plate is to keep my boost creep under control. sinse i ditched the main cat for a midpipe, it provided to much flow for the stock wastegate to keep up. so i added restricton in the exhaust to compensate. i added restrictor plates temporarily, that way, i can drive my fd till i have the time to port the wastegate.

 

both screws serve the same purpose. both change the idol and tps voltage. i believe the vertical screw, below the compression tube, is for fine tuning.

i already changed my idol useing mahjiks method. worked perfectly...

 

The lower idle screw doesn't affect the tps voltage. It just allows more air through a small hole.

 

I dont feel like commenting on all the misinformation spread thru this thread.

Just trying to help and if any of this has been stated before I apologize. Adjust the idle via the idle bleed screw beneath the intake elbow.

Stock ECU is fine with full exhaust, I have only sold about40-50 cars this way with no issues over the years. Remove the boost restrictor pills as your boost controller wont do jack **** with a full exhaust if the pills are still in line, hopefully you removed them before installing the boost controller.

I would honestly remove the boost controller unless you want it for looks as it will be doing nothing with this setup. Just run off the wastegate spring and you will be good to go. It will likely creep close to 9-10lbs around 6500+ but since you have a racing beat dual tip I doubt it will creep much higher. Enjoy it, Ive learned over the years that in most cases the closer the car is to stock the more enjoyable it is, there comes a fine line when the performance doesnt justify anything other than track use. Maybe I am just getting old

 

That's what I meant. I have the same exhaust setup(If I remember your original post correctly) of DP,MP, Racing Beat Dual Tip cat back, and was considering putting a restrictor plate in until I can get the wastegate ported. Since I too like driving my car, but don't want as high of a risk of boost creep leaning out the fuel mix. Thanks for the info.

 

the exhaust is great. the sound is very nice from the inside of the car, but i fear what it sounds like outside...

ditching the main cat really brought a new sound

 

I bet the butt dyno really felt a difference also

 

Sorry, but would you care to explane this to a Norwegian newbie? Pills...?

This seems to be the way I want to go...

I have a rebuilt engine, street ported. Also ported the wg because I wanted to run 3" exhaust. Greddy intake and bigger intercooler.

I would like to keep the engine as stock as I can, but want the sound!
Have been running dp and catback for a while, and put my midtpipe on this week. Had one test run, and on 3rd I had up to 14/15 psi. Haven`t drove the car after that because I tought I had to get a PowerFC. Or? I have no boost controller.

Thank`s!

 

good god! with a ported motor at the very least, you should have some type of engine management. are you sure you dont?? if so, your engine is in real danger

 

I`m sure! Bought the car with; Greddy intake, dp and catback. Had the engine rebuilt. The guy who built the engine used other apex seals (2 piece?) and he did "a little street port". He told me the car would work fine with thoose mod`s as long as I had the stock cat on.

Let me know what to do? The car is not driven as the turbo pressure was to high with my midtpipe on. Dont really know what to do next... rx7store could provide me with a pre tuned PowerFC fore my set up...? Have a bigger fuel pump, not mounted, but have one...

Thank`s...

 

my personal opinion...

purchase a stad-alone ecu of your choice(many go with the pfc), a boost controller, and also possibly an ignition amp of some kind(preferably hks twin power). get a rx7 specific shop to install the parts and get that fd on a dyno so it can be tuned for the boost levels your producing.

its not going to be cheap, but much less than a rebuild.