IC/Rad setup for San Diego
#1
IC/Rad setup for San Diego
I live out East in San Diego. Gets up to 100 and a little over in summer and down to mid 40s in the winter at times. Because of the huge change in temp, would V Mount or fmic be the best setup, and how thick of a core. Car came with no IC, Rad or fans so I'm starting from nothing. Full stock twin fd, will add intakes though and down pipe. Thanks for any help. Closest RX shop is 2 hrs away and car doesn't run
#2
Form follows function
iTrader: (8)
Since I live in the area and have experience with each of the setups: SMIC, FMIC and v-mount, I can tell you that, with few exceptions, a properly ducted v mount is the unequivocal all around winner. As an example, I've been able to take summer road trips with 115F ambient temps in the local deserts (e.g., Palm Springs) while using A/C full time and have never seen a significant increase in operating temps. A far cry from the stock setup, which was much more temperamental and would get uncomfortably warm even on moderate days.
The key is getting airflow through the heat exchangers. And once you are able to rearrange things to get air flowing through the cores, the specifics of the cores themselves are not so critical anymore. Stock fans work fine along with a slightly modified stock undertray--I also added a fan & shroud to draw through the IC whenever the rad fans are on (to avoid recirculation).
I've used the standard FD Fluidyne and Koyo radiators for v mounting with good results; the Fluidyne being slightly easier to fit/modify. In any event, nothing fancy is needed. For your use, I suggest using a medium sized intercooler of say, approx 12x12x3.5", thus allowing room for a cold air box or intake (to draw air from in front of the V). I've not had a problem getting this type of setup past smog visual here. WI is also worthwhile and recommended addition.
A well done v-mount setup is a transformative mod on these cars that solves a lot of problems with no real downside. It seems to be the way the factory should have done it in the first place fwiw.
This should get you started. I hope it helps.
The key is getting airflow through the heat exchangers. And once you are able to rearrange things to get air flowing through the cores, the specifics of the cores themselves are not so critical anymore. Stock fans work fine along with a slightly modified stock undertray--I also added a fan & shroud to draw through the IC whenever the rad fans are on (to avoid recirculation).
I've used the standard FD Fluidyne and Koyo radiators for v mounting with good results; the Fluidyne being slightly easier to fit/modify. In any event, nothing fancy is needed. For your use, I suggest using a medium sized intercooler of say, approx 12x12x3.5", thus allowing room for a cold air box or intake (to draw air from in front of the V). I've not had a problem getting this type of setup past smog visual here. WI is also worthwhile and recommended addition.
A well done v-mount setup is a transformative mod on these cars that solves a lot of problems with no real downside. It seems to be the way the factory should have done it in the first place fwiw.
This should get you started. I hope it helps.
#5
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top tip, the 99 FD's had upgraded fan blades, these upgraded parts actually came in some other Mazda's, so they are available here in the US.
the blade numbers are RF2A-15-140 and RF1S-15-140
Last edited by j9fd3s; 05-26-15 at 10:30 AM.
#9
Urban Combat Vet
iTrader: (16)
And I second getting the stock fans and shroud.
If you haven't already, consider a S5 thermoswitch for the fans. Lowers threshold from 108 C to 95C. Completely pnp.
Last edited by Sgtblue; 05-31-15 at 08:31 AM.
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