I WANT to run 7psi of boost......
05-20-05, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
I run full exhaust/full nonsequential cars with the WG actuator only and the thing won't ever even creep over 8. The WG has a 7 pound spring, and bottom line, at 7 pounds that baby is open all the way.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Best Regards
Tahmid
05-20-05, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by RX7 Rotary Rocket
Geez, I consider myself lucky to get 94 octane in Canada !
05-20-05, 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by KevinK2
With a profec, you can't go below the basic actuator setting. But you may get quicker response (esp with NS) at the basic actuator setting. It does require a hose directly from the compressor outlet, with no restrictor/pill. You may need to drill out an internal restriction, if using the current nipple for the wg.
Thanks Kevin
05-22-05, 02:21 AM
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Yesterday, I finally opened up the engine which blew 1.5 years back. I bought my rx7 (back in feb 2004) knowing that it doesnot start. However due to the lack of knowledge,I thought it wouldn't be too diffucult to fix. (I had no idea about rotary engine and this was the only rx7).
A month and 5 to 6 stupid threads later (asking all kinds of stupid questions), I did a compression test and realized, upon reading up, that the engine was toast. This is the original engine which came with the car factory out.
I never opened that engine up, knowing that no one has the knowledge of rebuiling them in Bangladesh.
So I placed an order for a new engine with a company called Zimax. New housings and everything except the e-shaft and a couple of things. Have been diving the car since then. My mechanic installed the engine in less then a day(didnot even need the manual) all he told me was that one plug wont fit the other and all connections are marked everywhere.It fired right up. Have been driving the car for the last almost 1.5 years with RON 90 octane and synthetic mobil1.
So yesterday, i badly wanted to see what the inside of my blown motor looked like and i spoke to the previous owner, who told me exactly when this car started acting funny. He went on a 600kms drive from Dhaka to Chittagong. Constantly boosting (RON 90) and one his later half of the journey he realized that the car was acting funny. He drove back (i'm assuming with the blown engine)and drove the car for another 2000kms with the engine like that. (I fail to understand how).
Anyways sorry for the long post. Here are some pics I took.
Also another question is, I haven't watered my engine bay for the last 1.5 years. Now its really dirty. We dont have simple green or the likes in Bangladesh. I just bought a rapid degreaser (HAWKER, its australian) the other day. Can I use that and hose the engine?? Sorry about the question, but I'm really paranoid.
How do I clean my rear boot carpet and floor mat? Just wash them??
Tahmid
A month and 5 to 6 stupid threads later (asking all kinds of stupid questions), I did a compression test and realized, upon reading up, that the engine was toast. This is the original engine which came with the car factory out.
I never opened that engine up, knowing that no one has the knowledge of rebuiling them in Bangladesh.
So I placed an order for a new engine with a company called Zimax. New housings and everything except the e-shaft and a couple of things. Have been diving the car since then. My mechanic installed the engine in less then a day(didnot even need the manual) all he told me was that one plug wont fit the other and all connections are marked everywhere.It fired right up. Have been driving the car for the last almost 1.5 years with RON 90 octane and synthetic mobil1.
So yesterday, i badly wanted to see what the inside of my blown motor looked like and i spoke to the previous owner, who told me exactly when this car started acting funny. He went on a 600kms drive from Dhaka to Chittagong. Constantly boosting (RON 90) and one his later half of the journey he realized that the car was acting funny. He drove back (i'm assuming with the blown engine)and drove the car for another 2000kms with the engine like that. (I fail to understand how).
Anyways sorry for the long post. Here are some pics I took.
Also another question is, I haven't watered my engine bay for the last 1.5 years. Now its really dirty. We dont have simple green or the likes in Bangladesh. I just bought a rapid degreaser (HAWKER, its australian) the other day. Can I use that and hose the engine?? Sorry about the question, but I'm really paranoid.
How do I clean my rear boot carpet and floor mat? Just wash them??
Tahmid
05-24-05, 01:32 AM
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Originally Posted by tahmid
What do the markings on the rotor mean? As in the letters S, B etc.
05-24-05, 01:33 AM
#61
The S, I have no idea, it is of no consequence.
The japanese characters on each side of the rotor are for use in conjuction with a seal case, to identify the original position of each seal and spring for reassembly per the FSM.
The A, b, c, d, and e are weight ranges. For example an FD rotor is rated at 9.5lb. However, during the manufacturing process, variances occur. Since they knew this they wanted to identify these variances so they could control their use in the engine, they didnt want a 9.8lb rotor and a 9.2lb rotor together in the same engine. So an A is the heaviest variation of a particular model of rotor, while E is the lightest. This is why you try to stay within 1 letter with your rotors when building an engine...factory static balance.
Also, the large and small circles you see randomly drilled on the sides of the rotor, are factory dynamic balance holes. They remove material to attempt to get the rotor tips equally balanced. This is why no 2 rotors have the holes the same...because different amounts of material settled in different spots during the manufacturing process, and they had to go back and correct for this as best they could later.
The japanese characters on each side of the rotor are for use in conjuction with a seal case, to identify the original position of each seal and spring for reassembly per the FSM.
The A, b, c, d, and e are weight ranges. For example an FD rotor is rated at 9.5lb. However, during the manufacturing process, variances occur. Since they knew this they wanted to identify these variances so they could control their use in the engine, they didnt want a 9.8lb rotor and a 9.2lb rotor together in the same engine. So an A is the heaviest variation of a particular model of rotor, while E is the lightest. This is why you try to stay within 1 letter with your rotors when building an engine...factory static balance.
Also, the large and small circles you see randomly drilled on the sides of the rotor, are factory dynamic balance holes. They remove material to attempt to get the rotor tips equally balanced. This is why no 2 rotors have the holes the same...because different amounts of material settled in different spots during the manufacturing process, and they had to go back and correct for this as best they could later.
05-24-05, 03:01 AM
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Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
The S, I have no idea, it is of no consequence.
The japanese characters on each side of the rotor are for use in conjuction with a seal case, to identify the original position of each seal and spring for reassembly per the FSM.
The A, b, c, d, and e are weight ranges. For example an FD rotor is rated at 9.5lb. However, during the manufacturing process, variances occur. Since they knew this they wanted to identify these variances so they could control their use in the engine, they didnt want a 9.8lb rotor and a 9.2lb rotor together in the same engine. So an A is the heaviest variation of a particular model of rotor, while E is the lightest. This is why you try to stay within 1 letter with your rotors when building an engine...factory static balance.
Also, the large and small circles you see randomly drilled on the sides of the rotor, are factory dynamic balance holes. They remove material to attempt to get the rotor tips equally balanced. This is why no 2 rotors have the holes the same...because different amounts of material settled in different spots during the manufacturing process, and they had to go back and correct for this as best they could later.
The japanese characters on each side of the rotor are for use in conjuction with a seal case, to identify the original position of each seal and spring for reassembly per the FSM.
The A, b, c, d, and e are weight ranges. For example an FD rotor is rated at 9.5lb. However, during the manufacturing process, variances occur. Since they knew this they wanted to identify these variances so they could control their use in the engine, they didnt want a 9.8lb rotor and a 9.2lb rotor together in the same engine. So an A is the heaviest variation of a particular model of rotor, while E is the lightest. This is why you try to stay within 1 letter with your rotors when building an engine...factory static balance.
Also, the large and small circles you see randomly drilled on the sides of the rotor, are factory dynamic balance holes. They remove material to attempt to get the rotor tips equally balanced. This is why no 2 rotors have the holes the same...because different amounts of material settled in different spots during the manufacturing process, and they had to go back and correct for this as best they could later.
Also, how do I clean my engine bay. Havent watered it for 1.5 years. I dont have simple green or the like in Bangladesh. Ever heard of HAWKER degreaser?? Can I use that? And, how do I clean my boot carpet?? Brushing doesnot help that much.
Any ideas?? Can I just wash it?
Best Regards
Tahmid
Thanks Rynberg and RR.
05-24-05, 04:09 AM
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hey tahmid!!
Just chuck the carpet into the washing machine if it fits and run it on low. Some dynamo etc should help. Alternatively if you have a steam cleaner you could just use that.
Very important is to keep your intakes/alternator dry. Cover them up with a plastic bag. Do it when the car is warm. If you have a steam cleaner use it on the walls. You'll see grease melt off. Hope everything is ok matey!!
Just chuck the carpet into the washing machine if it fits and run it on low. Some dynamo etc should help. Alternatively if you have a steam cleaner you could just use that.
Very important is to keep your intakes/alternator dry. Cover them up with a plastic bag. Do it when the car is warm. If you have a steam cleaner use it on the walls. You'll see grease melt off. Hope everything is ok matey!!
05-24-05, 04:40 AM
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Originally Posted by fd3s7007
hey tahmid!!
Just chuck the carpet into the washing machine if it fits and run it on low. Some dynamo etc should help. Alternatively if you have a steam cleaner you could just use that.
Very important is to keep your intakes/alternator dry. Cover them up with a plastic bag. Do it when the car is warm. If you have a steam cleaner use it on the walls. You'll see grease melt off. Hope everything is ok matey!!
Just chuck the carpet into the washing machine if it fits and run it on low. Some dynamo etc should help. Alternatively if you have a steam cleaner you could just use that.
Very important is to keep your intakes/alternator dry. Cover them up with a plastic bag. Do it when the car is warm. If you have a steam cleaner use it on the walls. You'll see grease melt off. Hope everything is ok matey!!
Dev, e-mail me your mobile number. Have you changed it??
05-24-05, 07:24 AM
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Originally Posted by fd3s7007
same as before but to reconfirm
+60 19 4566703
+60 12 5807597
+60 19 4566703
+60 12 5807597
Thanks mate. I'll call you soon. And best regards to you and your wife.
05-30-05, 02:51 AM
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Originally Posted by rynberg
Ron 90 is probably equivalent to 87 octane, as measured in America, so yeah, not so great.
As far as removing pills, it's possible you don't even have pills and that the restrictions are in the turbo housing nipples.
The rat's nest on later models (post-95) is different than the 92-95 models, so I don't know if this will still work. You can get 7 psi by unplugging the electrical connections from BOTH the wastegate and pre-control solenoids. These are the two large solenoids at the front of the rat's nest and UIM.
As far as removing pills, it's possible you don't even have pills and that the restrictions are in the turbo housing nipples.
The rat's nest on later models (post-95) is different than the 92-95 models, so I don't know if this will still work. You can get 7 psi by unplugging the electrical connections from BOTH the wastegate and pre-control solenoids. These are the two large solenoids at the front of the rat's nest and UIM.
Also does anyone know what exhaust this is?
07-10-05, 11:34 PM
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just a little update. My parts supplier already shipped my goods. Here is a picture of the boost controller and the Mazdaspeed AST.
How easy is this boost controller to hook up? You guys have to help me out. I know there is a detailed thread about the Spec II EBC, however since I know doing it myself would be a whole new ball game, you guys have to give me tips and help me through the way.
Next plan is to buy the FC thermoswitch (Dale). Water injection is still on hold.
I'll post detailed pictures once I get the good in hand. The Mazdaspeed AST should be of good quality.
How easy is this boost controller to hook up? You guys have to help me out. I know there is a detailed thread about the Spec II EBC, however since I know doing it myself would be a whole new ball game, you guys have to give me tips and help me through the way.
Next plan is to buy the FC thermoswitch (Dale). Water injection is still on hold.
I'll post detailed pictures once I get the good in hand. The Mazdaspeed AST should be of good quality.
Last edited by tahmid; 07-10-05 at 11:38 PM.
08-07-05, 01:15 AM
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Just a little followup. I bought the FC thermoswicth from Japan. It'll be here in a couple of days along with my boost controller, Mazdaspeed AST, plugs, no pressure cap (Just imagine how long it took to get these small parts from Japan, can't help it though my friend there is extremely busy with his work). Just a few reliablity mods, but it brings me great happiness just to little things to my 7. I should be done except the water temp gauge.
A friend of mine is getting LUCAS race gas. I have no idea about it. I'll try 10psi for the first time in my car in a long stretch
. My friend is running his WRX at 18psi with toulene. It's fast!!
A friend of mine is getting LUCAS race gas. I have no idea about it. I'll try 10psi for the first time in my car in a long stretch
. My friend is running his WRX at 18psi with toulene. It's fast!!
Last edited by tahmid; 08-07-05 at 01:32 AM.
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