Yes...I want to burn it. To the ground. Maybe even do a little dance on the burning embers.

Anyway, I can't get this f'n thing to run right. The crank trigger wheel pulled some wiring loose, and I fixed the wiring. Yet, it still is running in limp home mode with no SES light and no f'n codes in the computer. I have spent hours and hours...and hours checking everything. I give up.

Choices:
A. Take to someone with FD knowledge and the patience to fix it.
B. Rip the stock ECU and engine harness out, and replace with Haltech.
C. Sell it for a loss...after one month of owning it.

Choice A is out, because I don't know of anybody I trust that far at this point within any reasonable distance. I also usually do my own work on my cars, but I don't have the time or patience for this right now.

Here are my engine mods in case it matters:
PFS Street ported motor
PFS Intake
PFS Intercooler
Effini Y-pipe
Re-built turbos with 10% clip
PFS Downpipe
PFS Midpipe with Borla XR-1 resonator
PFS Catback Exhaust
Unorthodox Racing Pulleys
PFS Silicone vacuum line replacements
PFS Powertrain Management purple computer
Mazda 3 rotor fuel pump
Taylor 8mm spark plug wires
J&S Knock Sensor w/ monitor
Crane HI 6D Ignition amp
Competition Mazda radiator
Pettit Aluminum AST


Now I see why Haltechs and single turbos are so popular. Somebody help me reason through this before I go insane!

 

Well, I figure I'll bump this for the guy...

Goddamn, I'm on the third page and I still can't find that picture of that old man with the construction hat standing next to the RX-7...

 

Buy a powerFC you will nto regret it, you probably will still haev to fix your problem, but it may help you out. Plus, you shoudl get it anyway, even i fit were working properly

 

Damn, if thisguy ever does get this car running right, its going to kick major *** is all I know.

Dude, if you sell it for a loss, then someone is going to buy it and spend $200 on it, and have it running like a champ and you will feel like an idiot then.

A sounds like the best option to me, you just need more info on rotary mechanics in yoru area, which I dont' have, so I guess I'll shut up now.

B sounds like a good option too though, assuming that it really would fix your problem, which it might not.

 

You reset the computer by disconnecting the battery and pumping the brakes right? Just disconnecting the battery doesn't do it.

 

How about Choice D: give your car to forum member: DomFD3S.

Honestly, just relax and assuming you have the factory service manual and have the wiring diagram...try to figure out what may have been damaged. Check your sensors/plugs...although there are a lot of them. I'm guessing that odds are...the wires near a sensor or a plug was yanked loose.

 

Ok, I just got back from vacation so I should have a little more patience now. I just got a little frustrated and this was a way to vent.

The problems began when the MOP wiring and CAS wiring got ripped apart by the crank trigger wheel. I fixed the wiring, and it starts fine, but it seems to be stuck in failsafe mode after resetting the ecu many times. Anyway, I actually have checked out all the sensors and wiring that would likely cause my problems. I decided that the ecu must be bad. Maybe when the wiring got cut, it shorted and damaged the ecu. So I think I'm going to just buy a used one to try it out.

I NEED to get this thing running right again!