potatochobit

iTrader: (1)

not the actual Y-pipe but the elbow behind it on the secondary
do these actuators go bad? this is the first I have come across this problem that I can remember
only sticks while its cold, seems to work fine once the car is fully warmed up
my brother thinks the turbo might get damaged due to back pressure if its not fixed?

its sad because I had a whole mess of junk parts with at least 2 y-pipes all gone in the trash...
I guess I should search for a used one, or can these be cleaned out? maybe just carbon is sticking?

potatochobit

iTrader: (1)

ok the proper name is VALVE CHARGE CONTROL and it costs 376$ new
this car is such a joker

edit:
hmm I just did a google search and found out that petit racing is rebuilding them now?
199$ and 50$ back for the core?
that is more reasonable for a new one but i wonder if anyone has tried them yet

Narfle

iTrader: (16)

Here's how to check(And, you should do more troubleshooting if you're going to replace anything).

1) use your fingers to plug one of the nipples, or the other, or both
2) close the butterfly manually, while capping a nipple
3) let go of the butterfly, while still capping a nipple

If the butterfly returns to the open position in less than a second, it's fine.
If it's slow, it may be gunked up or the diaphragm may be compromised
If you must buy a part, buy it from Ray@MalloyMazda or in the classified section. Parts for the stock twins are usually pretty cheap(not $400). You could buy an entire efini y-pipe with new actuators for $200-$300.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

I have seen sticking and slow Y-pipe butterflies. Cleaning may do the trick. Used they're STUPID cheap, hell I probably have 5 in my garage. They are the same whether you have the Efini Y-pipe or stock Y-pipe.

Really no sense in buying new or having it rebuilt, good used ones are so cheap (and like you did, threw old ones away, they're a dime a dozen) just get a good one and be done with it.

Dale

CloudPump

iTrader: (2)

Start your car, pop your hood.

Look at your CCV, it should be pulled shut. Turn off your car, look at your CCV. it should be open.

If this is the case, it is unlikely that your CCV is the problem.

-Geoff

potatochobit

iTrader: (1)

ok i got the new CCV on but I am still having problems

here is what happens:
when the car is cold - it doesnt pull closed all the way and makes a funny noise

but after the car warms-up you can see it pull close 'woosh'

any idea what the problem is?
is there another solenoid controlling this somewhere?
ill try to make a video if no one has an idea

phrost

iTrader: (14)

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/vacuum-diagrams-stock-simplified-sequential-non-sequential-single-turbo-749702/
solenoid F, charge control light green color lines on all diagrams in first post is the one that controls the actuator on the y-pipe

potatochobit

iTrader: (1)

oh you are right
that green hose goes into the manifold- but then it comes out the otherside, I missed that

I figured out the noise
it seems like air is coming out the secondary air filter
revving the car and you can feel the air
that means my turbo is back spinning?
is this possible? now I am worried about driving

I do have a an extra solenoid kit but no time to install it this week

phrost

iTrader: (14)

ok if ur free rev'ing the engine in neutral, the blow off and charge control valve ("blow off" valve for the 2ndary turbo) should bleed off all boost to ur intakes if your blow off valves are still connected to the intake tract.
also the "blow off" valve, for the 2ndary turbo should release all pressure from the 2ndary turbo until after what 4200rpms or so, when the actuator opens the butterfly in the y-pipe.